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Help Please Cam Swap In Progress

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Old 04-17-2006, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001bluerata
I hate to do it but maybe I'll invest in the JPR tool, but if it's fool proof maybe that's what i need, it's either that or pull the heads.
put the cam all the way back in and lightly put all the pushrods in. then turn the cam. you will see which lifter is not staying up cause the pushrod wil be going up and down. put a pen magnet on just the one(s) that are not staying up. extend the pen magnet all the way and pull the lifter up. then zip tie that pen magnet to something so it doesn't come down. then pull out all the pushrods and spin the cam a couple more times and pull her out.
Old 04-17-2006, 08:53 PM
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It's gonna have to wait until tomorrow, I'm already home for the night.

Exactly how much distance is there between the cam lobe and lifter when the lifter is pulled all the way up. B/c even pulling up w/ the magnet on I can still feel the lobe hit it.
Old 04-17-2006, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001bluerata
It's gonna have to wait until tomorrow, I'm already home for the night.

Exactly how much distance is there between the cam lobe and lifter when the lifter is pulled all the way up. B/c even pulling up w/ the magnet on I can still feel the lobe hit it.
Not much at all.
Old 04-18-2006, 04:32 PM
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OK I think I'm just going to pull the heads and remove the lifters!

How much harder can that be?
Old 04-18-2006, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dregnier0
Did mine this weekend with the pen magnet method. I put a small bead of crazy glue on the outside edge of the magnet so the magnet will not come off the base of the pen. Worked fine for me. The only problem I had was pulling them out from the pushrod hole when finished. Returned all 16 magnets at lowes because it cost me about 90 bucks. Just wiped them down with alcohol and wala.

Does your cam go all the way back in or not? To get mine out I had to turn the cam in both directions and keep it centered i.e. up and down.

IMO Pen magnet all the way
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Lol! I returned all but 1 of mine back to auto-zone for around 60$.
Old 04-18-2006, 08:12 PM
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Prob the best idea for you since your having so much trouble. Itl be much easier taking out the springs. Good luck man
Old 04-18-2006, 08:17 PM
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Don't get frustrated and pull the heads and intake because your cam won't jump out of the block on its' own. The cam lobes may touch the lifters as you rotate the cam while trying to pull it out even with the tool inserted into the block, but that's OK. That's only when the lobes are aligned with the specific lifters they are in close proximity to. If the lobes are on their backs they will not touch the lifters during the process. You can't just yank the cam out. Sometimes you have to coax it out. You need to spin the cam CW and CCW. You also need to have a handle bolted to the cam to get good purchase on the cam as you remove and install it. I made my own handle and it really helps both during removal and install. The cam is unwieldy even with a handle to hold it. The longer the handle the better because it helps you to move the cam up and down and side to side as you are sliding it out or pushing it in and don't forget you're slowly rotating the cam all the time as you doing this. I've often reached a point where I'd get a cam out with only 3 or 4 lobes out of the block and it would stop and go no further. It felt like somone was inside the engine pulling back on the cam as I was trying to pull it out. When this happens you have to slowly wriggle and jiggle the cam up and down and side to side all the while rotating it until you get past the obstruction that is stopping your progress. Work slowly and it will come out.




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