Recommend a street cam, specifics inside
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Quad Cities, IL
Recommend a street cam, specifics inside I want a street cam that will gain as much torque as possible all over the powerband and still be able to hit 400 rw cam only or close to it. Big torque all over and still screams up top.
I want to shift at 6300 and have the limiter set at 6500.
I dont want to have an ungodly amount of lift. I will be using the stock lifters and I dont want to have to change springs every 10k. Every 20-25k is fine.
The car is an M6. Will have a lid, ported stock tb, LS6 intake (it's an 02), qtp's/ory, and the cam will be installed/tuned at speed inc. The cam will only see the track VERY rarely just to see what I can get out of it.
EDIT- The car will be running 3.42 (stock) gears. -EDIT
I was originally thinking F13 but I'd have to be shifting at 6500 or more. Is the EDIT-228R-EDIT what I'm looking for? Or should I look at something a little bigger to hit 400 rwhp.
I know a guy(ls1tech member) who hit 411 rwhp with the same mods and a lunati B1 cam (220/220 I think) speed inc tuned. I think JRP mentioned that cam in his sticky as one of the tried and true 400 rw cams. (the B1)
Thanks for any help.
I want to shift at 6300 and have the limiter set at 6500.
I dont want to have an ungodly amount of lift. I will be using the stock lifters and I dont want to have to change springs every 10k. Every 20-25k is fine.
The car is an M6. Will have a lid, ported stock tb, LS6 intake (it's an 02), qtp's/ory, and the cam will be installed/tuned at speed inc. The cam will only see the track VERY rarely just to see what I can get out of it.
EDIT- The car will be running 3.42 (stock) gears. -EDIT
I was originally thinking F13 but I'd have to be shifting at 6500 or more. Is the EDIT-228R-EDIT what I'm looking for? Or should I look at something a little bigger to hit 400 rwhp.
I know a guy(ls1tech member) who hit 411 rwhp with the same mods and a lunati B1 cam (220/220 I think) speed inc tuned. I think JRP mentioned that cam in his sticky as one of the tried and true 400 rw cams. (the B1)
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by LSWannabe; Apr 21, 2006 at 12:53 AM.
228/232
.588/.595
110 LSA 108 ICL
comp XER lobes
Peaks at about 6300 and shouldnt really fall off too badly after. This is the cam I will go with. One of the other members suggested this cam a few days ago to fit exactly what you are describing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/490263-your-thoughts-228-232-588-595-110lsa-2-a.html
.588/.595
110 LSA 108 ICL
comp XER lobes
Peaks at about 6300 and shouldnt really fall off too badly after. This is the cam I will go with. One of the other members suggested this cam a few days ago to fit exactly what you are describing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/490263-your-thoughts-228-232-588-595-110lsa-2-a.html
the tr224 is a good tried and true street cam. I personally found this cam to be great at first but left me wanting more over time. Might be best to call a vendor and let them know what you're looking for.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 642
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From: Quad Cities, IL
Originally Posted by cenTX-LS1
228/232
.588/.595
110 LSA 108 ICL
comp XER lobes
Peaks at about 6300 and shouldnt really fall off too badly after. This is the cam I will go with. One of the other members suggested this cam a few days ago to fit exactly what you are describing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=490263
.588/.595
110 LSA 108 ICL
comp XER lobes
Peaks at about 6300 and shouldnt really fall off too badly after. This is the cam I will go with. One of the other members suggested this cam a few days ago to fit exactly what you are describing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=490263
If I want to shift at 6300, shouldnt I shoot for peak at 6k or 6100?
The numbers on that cam are close to the F13, is it the lower LSA+2 that makes it peak lower? I know that cam motion lobes are slightly less agressive than XER's.
Originally Posted by LSWannabe
I went and looked at Thunders' site. For some reason I thought the TR224 had more lift than it does.
What about the TSP 228R? 228/228 .588/.588
What about the TSP 228R? 228/228 .588/.588
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I wanted something very similar to what you are looking for...and I am setting my shift light at 6300...limiter at 6600
Ordered the custom cam in my sig. Big as I wanted to go for the rpm range/powerband I am looking for.
I also thought about the f13...but I think it would be a little too soft on the bottom end for my taste on stock gears...and require a little bit more rpm than I would like to spin...just as you were thinking.
I went to speed inc...they will hook you up for a real good price...and they are FAST...I got my custom cam in only a little over a week from the day I placed my order.
btw...if your light is at 6300...you will most likely be be shifting closer to 64-6500...so I would set the limiter at 6600 to be safe. Unless you want to shift right at 6300...then I would set the light for 6100 or so.
If you dont have a shift light you really need to get one...you will be bouncing off the rev limiter on several occasions especially on the 1 to 2 shift...the stock tach wont be able to keep up/not as accurate, not to mention you will be much more consistent and quicker with one.
Ordered the custom cam in my sig. Big as I wanted to go for the rpm range/powerband I am looking for.
I also thought about the f13...but I think it would be a little too soft on the bottom end for my taste on stock gears...and require a little bit more rpm than I would like to spin...just as you were thinking.
I went to speed inc...they will hook you up for a real good price...and they are FAST...I got my custom cam in only a little over a week from the day I placed my order.
btw...if your light is at 6300...you will most likely be be shifting closer to 64-6500...so I would set the limiter at 6600 to be safe. Unless you want to shift right at 6300...then I would set the light for 6100 or so.
If you dont have a shift light you really need to get one...you will be bouncing off the rev limiter on several occasions especially on the 1 to 2 shift...the stock tach wont be able to keep up/not as accurate, not to mention you will be much more consistent and quicker with one.
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Verdad Gallardo The lower LSA of the cam I mentioned will shift the power band down. The +2 advance also helps with that. Being that your car is an 02 like mine, you have the stronger rod bolts from the factory. FWIW shifting at 6400 or 6500 and having the limiter set to 6600 or so would be plenty safe.
-Jason
-Jason
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From: cyberspace
Originally Posted by LSWannabe
I went and looked at Thunders' site. For some reason I thought the TR224 had more lift than it does.
What about the TSP 228R? 228/228 .588/.588
What about the TSP 228R? 228/228 .588/.588
Had a TSP 225/225 .589/.589 112 in a 3500 stalled a4. I liked the cam but know I want a bigger one this round in the m6. I too have been trying to figure out just which cam will be big enough and small enough to suit my needs and desires. That TSP 228R does sound like a possibilty. TTT guys!
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From: Orange Park/ Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by cenTX-LS1
228/232
.588/.595
110 LSA 108 ICL
comp XER lobes
Peaks at about 6300 and shouldnt really fall off too badly after. This is the cam I will go with. One of the other members suggested this cam a few days ago to fit exactly what you are describing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=490263
.588/.595
110 LSA 108 ICL
comp XER lobes
Peaks at about 6300 and shouldnt really fall off too badly after. This is the cam I will go with. One of the other members suggested this cam a few days ago to fit exactly what you are describing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=490263
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,227
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From: Indianapolis
An FMS F4 sound right for you. Great for the street and still runs great times in an A4. The cam may not dyno as high as the bigger cams but at the track it runs right with them. Peak HP or dyno #'s really mean very little. Its where you produce your power and where your converter puts your RPM's in that power curve. If you make alot of HP and TQ at 4400rpm then you want a converter that has a stift Extension at 4400.I would pick a cam that produces well in the rpm range you would spent the most time in. Study dyno graphs of every cam you can find
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From: LS1GTO.com
I'm running the comp XR273 in my '04 GTO and putting down 370 hp through an A4 and IRS. You'd be close to 400 rwhp in an f-body with full bolt-ons and this cam. I'm shifting at 6500 which is a little higher than you want to go, but you could easily short shift that 200 rpm.
TR230/224 .575/.563 111
Great street cam, sounds mean as hell too. Has great driveability and a very nice torque curve. W/ my old exhaust setup I dyno'd 395/377 without an underdrive pulley.
Great street cam, sounds mean as hell too. Has great driveability and a very nice torque curve. W/ my old exhaust setup I dyno'd 395/377 without an underdrive pulley.
With any cam that peaks around 6300 i suggest thinking about a gears swap. Im saying this because my car suffered in the 1/4mile running the stock gears even though the cam was peaking around 6000RPM and held it until 6500RPM with a very broad TQ range. If you look at my sig you will see the gains on the dyno did show in the trapspeed every mod since i bought the car. That changed when i installed the cam.
Even though i gained 44rwhp with the cam on the dyno i only picked up around 2-2.5 mph in traps. The problem is gearing... The car is pulling all the way in 3rd until 6300-6500 RPM which puts me around 109-110mph and then i have to shift to 4th within the last 80ft or so. I even tried getting the traps in 3rd gear hitting the rev limiter just to see how much ET would i lose and i only lost .1 . The car gained 4mph within the last 80ft or so just to show you that you need to use 4th gear in a manual car more if you want to utilize maximum power out your setup.
My suggestion is getting at least 3.73 (4.10 even better if you are going to run N/A) with a cam because that should bring your 3rd gear down to around 100mph (92 or so with 4.10) so you can use the stronger gear which is 4th.
On the dyno in 3rd gear my car lost 15rwhp which shows in the 1/4mile traps since i only gained 2.5 mph instead of 4mph in traps. I blame that on the long gearing which doesnt allow me to use 4th gear. Just some thoughts.
My cam is 224/230 .587 .593 114 LSA.. It idles around 800rpm and drives smooth. It also peak around 6000RPM and hold maximum peak HP until 6600RPM. Check the dyno sheet listed below.
Sorry for the long write up, but i really believe that you will need gearing with a cam swap. Been there done that.
Even though i gained 44rwhp with the cam on the dyno i only picked up around 2-2.5 mph in traps. The problem is gearing... The car is pulling all the way in 3rd until 6300-6500 RPM which puts me around 109-110mph and then i have to shift to 4th within the last 80ft or so. I even tried getting the traps in 3rd gear hitting the rev limiter just to see how much ET would i lose and i only lost .1 . The car gained 4mph within the last 80ft or so just to show you that you need to use 4th gear in a manual car more if you want to utilize maximum power out your setup.
My suggestion is getting at least 3.73 (4.10 even better if you are going to run N/A) with a cam because that should bring your 3rd gear down to around 100mph (92 or so with 4.10) so you can use the stronger gear which is 4th.
On the dyno in 3rd gear my car lost 15rwhp which shows in the 1/4mile traps since i only gained 2.5 mph instead of 4mph in traps. I blame that on the long gearing which doesnt allow me to use 4th gear. Just some thoughts.
My cam is 224/230 .587 .593 114 LSA.. It idles around 800rpm and drives smooth. It also peak around 6000RPM and hold maximum peak HP until 6600RPM. Check the dyno sheet listed below.
Sorry for the long write up, but i really believe that you will need gearing with a cam swap. Been there done that.
