Head Bolts or Studs
Head Bolts or Studs Give me some pro's and cons of going with head bolts or head studs from ARP, or even going with stock bolts......
I guess I'm saying, give me some direction in this decision
I guess I'm saying, give me some direction in this decision
well, studs are usually more money, and usually better piece of mind, great for FI cars if not a requirement, and works well with no2 applications as well. The bolts are good, studs are better, but if you are not going to crazy bolts should be ok for you, what are your current plans? I mean, where is this going.
Head studs - Never have to worry about cleaning bolt holes again, makes install of new heads easier if need be. Some say they it's hard to find the clearence. Strongest of all.
Head bolts - Easy install, still have to clean bolt holes, stronger than stock.
Stock head bolts - Easy install, still have to clean bolt holes, will work, but still have to do the stupid torque method with degrees and stuff. Plus you risk breaking one if you don't do it right.
Head bolts - Easy install, still have to clean bolt holes, stronger than stock.
Stock head bolts - Easy install, still have to clean bolt holes, will work, but still have to do the stupid torque method with degrees and stuff. Plus you risk breaking one if you don't do it right.
Last edited by 777; Apr 21, 2006 at 12:58 PM.
Go with ARP studs and never look back. Easy future head swaps, no more cleaning bolt holes in the block, better tensile strength and you'll never have to buy another set of head bolts, much less worry about torque-to-yield and degreeing, etc.
...oh, and I have done head swaps with the motor in the car, some people say there are clearance issues but that's not true.
Rob (Bad30th)
...oh, and I have done head swaps with the motor in the car, some people say there are clearance issues but that's not true.
Rob (Bad30th)
Originally Posted by Bad30th
Go with ARP studs and never look back. Easy future head swaps, no more cleaning bolt holes in the block, better tensile strength and you'll never have to buy another set of head bolts, much less worry about torque-to-yield and degreeing, etc.
...oh, and I have done head swaps with the motor in the car, some people say there are clearance issues but that's not true.
Rob (Bad30th)
...oh, and I have done head swaps with the motor in the car, some people say there are clearance issues but that's not true.
Rob (Bad30th)
Okay, that was also one of my worries, was having fitment issues with the studs sticking up. But I shouldnt have a problem getting the heads all the way to the back and sitting on the studs with the engine in?
Another question, hex vs 12 pt? what size hex bit does it take/what size 12 pt?
thanks fellas, this is really the direction I was looking for
Originally Posted by Bad30th
Go with ARP studs and never look back. Easy future head swaps, no more cleaning bolt holes in the block, better tensile strength and you'll never have to buy another set of head bolts, much less worry about torque-to-yield and degreeing, etc.
...oh, and I have done head swaps with the motor in the car, some people say there are clearance issues but that's not true.
Rob (Bad30th)
...oh, and I have done head swaps with the motor in the car, some people say there are clearance issues but that's not true.
Rob (Bad30th)
Another plus for studs is that it saves the block threads from possibly getting stripped.
Originally Posted by Zymosis
But I shouldnt have a problem getting the heads all the way to the back and sitting on the studs with the engine in?
Just gotta be careful and take your time, like everything else. It's not like there's a shitload of room like there is on a 'Vette, but the heads will come on/off and will fit under the cowl with the studs installed, no problem.
Rob (Bad30th)
Trending Topics
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
From: Northern Va
No problem with clearance here. Studs are expensive but after reading so many posts about broken bolts and stripped threads I decided they were worth the price. It was so easy (and stress free) tightening the nuts down to specs. And if I ever have to pull them...
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo What size hex bit does it take/what size 12 pt?
And what are the torqing specs/procedure for the studs?
Thanks Rob
And what are the torqing specs/procedure for the studs?
Originally Posted by Bad30th
100% correct, I swapped my last set of heads with the block in the car. No problem getting them on/off.
Just gotta be careful and take your time, like everything else. It's not like there's a shitload of room like there is on a 'Vette, but the heads will come on/off and will fit under the cowl with the studs installed, no problem.
Rob (Bad30th)
Just gotta be careful and take your time, like everything else. It's not like there's a shitload of room like there is on a 'Vette, but the heads will come on/off and will fit under the cowl with the studs installed, no problem.
Rob (Bad30th)
Last edited by Zymosis; Apr 21, 2006 at 03:50 PM.
http://blackcamaro.com/headstud.htm
Good instructions ! Take special note of the torque on the top smaller bolts, lots of people overtorque and break them.
Also, here's a scan of the install instructions that come with the studs (thanks to whoever posted this) :
Not sure on the exact size of the hex key. Easy enough to figure out when you get them, or you could probably call ARP and ask if you need to know beforehand.
I can look when I get home (rode the motorcycle to work today).
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Good instructions ! Take special note of the torque on the top smaller bolts, lots of people overtorque and break them.
Also, here's a scan of the install instructions that come with the studs (thanks to whoever posted this) :
Not sure on the exact size of the hex key. Easy enough to figure out when you get them, or you could probably call ARP and ask if you need to know beforehand.
I can look when I get home (rode the motorcycle to work today).
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Originally Posted by Zymosis
What size hex bit does it take/what size 12 pt?
And what are the torqing specs/procedure for the studs?
Thanks Rob
And what are the torqing specs/procedure for the studs?
Thanks Rob
Ha to my suprise, a 230 dollar box of ARP studs does not come with a small thing of moly lube.
Cheap bastards, lol. Will motor oil work okay, or should I just buy some damn lube
Cheap bastards, lol. Will motor oil work okay, or should I just buy some damn lube
Originally Posted by Bad30th
http://blackcamaro.com/headstud.htm
Good instructions ! Take special note of the torque on the top smaller bolts, lots of people overtorque and break them.
Also, here's a scan of the install instructions that come with the studs (thanks to whoever posted this) :
Not sure on the exact size of the hex key. Easy enough to figure out when you get them, or you could probably call ARP and ask if you need to know beforehand.
I can look when I get home (rode the motorcycle to work today).
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Good instructions ! Take special note of the torque on the top smaller bolts, lots of people overtorque and break them.
Also, here's a scan of the install instructions that come with the studs (thanks to whoever posted this) :
Not sure on the exact size of the hex key. Easy enough to figure out when you get them, or you could probably call ARP and ask if you need to know beforehand.
I can look when I get home (rode the motorcycle to work today).
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Note that the two instructions posted differ from each other. The pre-stretch on the web site is for rod bolts not head bolts/studs as verified by the head tech at ARP. I would say use at your own risk.
The studs offer full engagement of the threads in the block before any load is put on the block threads, in my opinion, that is the best reason to go with them in an aluminum block.
