Robinator

iTrader: (1)

Its not nessesary, but HIGHLY recommended. I did the last swap without it, and it took almost 45 mins to get the pulley back on far enough to get the old bolt on. I used a hammer a socket. Kept hitting the hammer jently but with assertion all around the pulley to get it started and slightly on and then put the socket where the crank bolt goes and hit that with the hammer. It is a very tight fit, so that is what took so long to get the pulley far enough on to get at least 3 full rotations on the crank bolt before trying to pull the pulley on with the bolt.

Convenient, no
doable, yes

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

You do not want to pull the threads out of the crank..you will have a very bad day if that happens...

Somebody09

I heard that hammering on the crank pulley can do bad things. I don't remmeber the finer details, but it was from LS1Tech. I figured for $5.00 I'd get a longer bolt from NAPA. And it didn't take me 45 minutes to put it on either, more like 5. So I guess that's great.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

if you heat the pulley up in the sun, or in an oven a little, and grease up the crank, it may let you slide it on far enough to just use the old bolt. I know it worked with me - enough to get 3 or 4 threads started.

pla-tym

If you make the rods 22 inches, 2 inches will be sticking out of the block when fully inserted

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Steve Bryant has the best home made tool yet. I didn't think a 1/2" dia rod would fit in the hole, but it's clear from the picture it does. With the heads off and lifters removed you can clearly see there is no way the lifter can fall using Steve's tool. Did you put a handle on the end of tool as the JPR tool has to keep the flat toward the step in the side of the lifter as you insert the tool.

Robinator

iTrader: (1)

I just finished the job about 4 hours ago. WHEW!!! Job from hell on this car . I did use the 5/16" rod cut to 20.5" in length and that seemed to do the trick. The oil pump pick up bolt was a fun one too....dropped it once but got it in the second time. I completed the following on my buddys car this weekend:
Cam swap (233/239 .595/.605 113lsa)
Valve train swap (duals)
LS6 PCV conversion
Oil pump
Timing chain (LS2)
LT's
Injectors
Air delete
Fuel Pump (big job there )

Cant wait till the tune is done tommarow to see how it does. Cant hold idle as of now and is running PIG rich. Smells like it has no cats when it does. Anyways, Ill keep posted.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Anyone have a picture of this JRP tool or any other the other tools being used??

Mat

Yeah I wouldn't mind seeing that picture of the wooden dowels through the lifter bores as shown above. That'd be interested as a buddy of mine did his cam swap and the dowels didn't seem to hold his lifters up high enough to prevent them from slipping down and not allowing the cam to be installed. Now, they would have prevented them from falling into the oil pan, but I always thought that the dowels/JRP tool would prevent them from dropping far enough to cause issue at all.

ThirdGenLS1

iTrader: (11)

I just put my new cam in using wooden dowells and they seemed to work fine. Dont know if they did anythingl but i was able to pull the old cam out and put the new one in with no problems.

Justin