cam advice
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From: Thibodaux Louisiana
cam advice 3724R/3715R on a 112 +4 228/224 .588/.568 at +.050 lift
i want to use this cam in my daily driver ported stock heads,lid,lt's,ory,loudmouth,ls6 intake how do you guys think it will work? i don't understand what the +4 is behind the 112 lobe seperation. oh the car is a 99 SS with a m6
i want to use this cam in my daily driver ported stock heads,lid,lt's,ory,loudmouth,ls6 intake how do you guys think it will work? i don't understand what the +4 is behind the 112 lobe seperation. oh the car is a 99 SS with a m6
This is from the cam guide at the top of this forum..
D. Advance and Retard:
- When you see cams specs like 224/224 .563/.563 112+4; the +4 denotes that the cam has 4 degrees of advance ground in.
- Most off the shelf cams have 2 or 4 degrees of advance ground in. This lowers the power band slightly and offers more low end and midrange at the sacrifice of a bit more top end power
- For cams used primarily on the street the advance is best appreciated. For a strip or racing setup 2 or 0 degrees advance will net you more peak power in the upper ranges of the power band
- To find out if you cam has advance ground in you can check on the cam card. Besides the +2, +4, you can determine the number by looking at the intake center line (ICL). Referring back to the T1 cam card you’ll see that it states that those are the specs when installed on a 108 ICL.
- Subtracting the ICL from the LSA will give you the advance: 112 – 108 = 4 using the T1. Or 113 – 109 = 4 using the G5X2.
- Retarding the cam does the opposite of advancing it, it pushes the power band up slightly and gives more top end power.
- With an adjustable timing chain or degreeing the cam you can install the cam at different ICL’s.
- Keep in mind as stated; most cams already have advance ground into them so if you buy an adjustable timing chain and advance 2 degrees you’ll increase the overall advance to 6 degree’s if the cam has 4 degree’s ground in.
- Also with big cams and/or milled heads piston to valve clearances starts becoming an issue. If in doubt always clay the heads and find out your PtV clearance before installing/advancing especially if your cam has a big intake duration as advancing starts the intake valve events sooner.
- Degreeing or installing dot to dot at the said ICL is the best bet.
- When you see cams specs like 224/224 .563/.563 112+4; the +4 denotes that the cam has 4 degrees of advance ground in.
- Most off the shelf cams have 2 or 4 degrees of advance ground in. This lowers the power band slightly and offers more low end and midrange at the sacrifice of a bit more top end power
- For cams used primarily on the street the advance is best appreciated. For a strip or racing setup 2 or 0 degrees advance will net you more peak power in the upper ranges of the power band
- To find out if you cam has advance ground in you can check on the cam card. Besides the +2, +4, you can determine the number by looking at the intake center line (ICL). Referring back to the T1 cam card you’ll see that it states that those are the specs when installed on a 108 ICL.
- Subtracting the ICL from the LSA will give you the advance: 112 – 108 = 4 using the T1. Or 113 – 109 = 4 using the G5X2.
- Retarding the cam does the opposite of advancing it, it pushes the power band up slightly and gives more top end power.
- With an adjustable timing chain or degreeing the cam you can install the cam at different ICL’s.
- Keep in mind as stated; most cams already have advance ground into them so if you buy an adjustable timing chain and advance 2 degrees you’ll increase the overall advance to 6 degree’s if the cam has 4 degree’s ground in.
- Also with big cams and/or milled heads piston to valve clearances starts becoming an issue. If in doubt always clay the heads and find out your PtV clearance before installing/advancing especially if your cam has a big intake duration as advancing starts the intake valve events sooner.
- Degreeing or installing dot to dot at the said ICL is the best bet.
