chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

So are ARP main studs needed in a motor making 750rwhp???If they are do you need to get the mains honed when you replace the factory bolts??This will be on a brand new block 2004' with a stock crank and forged rods and pistons, 317 heads and ARP head studs....

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

tttt up

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

I would say so. Anyways, if you put the money in it to make 750rwhp, why not spend the extra i think $200 at the most for the extra strength. I'm not sure about the other machine work that needs to be done, but honing the mains and adding new bearings etc, is always good insurance.

99hugcam

iTrader: (9)

I also was wondering this, posted a question too. I would install the studs and have the machine shop check the line bore.

hpcubed

buy them. I did for security purposes.

You have too much into it. Do it the first time.

mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

I don't know the exact power level where ARP main studs become a requirement, however, I would venture to guess that at 750rwhp the studs would be standard equipment.

Mark

bichin95redta

I would not only get the ARP studs, I'd replace the OEM main caps with billet-steel caps. The OEM caps are made of powdered metal, and are fine up to around 550HP or so. Your stock crank, supported by billet-steel caps and ARP studs should be fine. GEN III OEM cranks, for being cast iron, can handle insane amounts of power.

The Gen III crank bore is the reference line for all other bores in the block. All 8 cylinder bores, lifter/pushrod bores, and the cam bore are referenced, either parallel or perpendicular, to the crank bore. If it's off, everything else will be off. A 750HP engine is no joke. When it comes to component strength, and the precision with which those components are assembled, cheaping-out makes no sense at all. Speaking of cheaping-out, DON'T LISTEN to anyone who tells you it's okay to re-use OEM gaskets. It's not. ESPECIALLY if you're going to be spending the time, money, and effort to put together a 750HP engine. If it were my engine, and I removed the OEM fasteners from the main caps, I'd AT LEAST have a machine shop check the crank bore to see if it does need to be align honed. You'll need to supply the machine shop with the main caps & fasteners you'll be using when you assemble the engine.

If you use forged pistons, you'll more than likely have to dik with the knock sensors (you may even have to disable them) when you do your tune. Forged pistons "sound" like detonation to the GEN III knock sensors.

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

thanks, I think I am going to have the pistons coated tops and sides while I'm at it. ARP main studs it is...

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Don't bother. The top coating will burn off within 100 miles, and the skirt coating is mainly used to help oil control on startup...normally something important on pro stock motors and pro 5.0 motors...not something on a daily driver.

Nate

willyfastz

Would this be true with the MAHL coated pistons?

bichin95redta

I have to be honest....I don't know.

If it's true that piston coatings burn off as rapidly as stated in one of the above posts (and, here again, I don't know the answer to that one, either), then I would say a coated, forged piston would have a limited amount of time protecting against false knock, if coatings DO protect against false knock.

I would think it has more to do with the material the piston is made of, and its method of construction, than anything else. It's kinda like taking two cooking pots, one steel, and one aluminum, turning 'em up-side dowm, and tapping them with a hammer. They'll make different sounds.

From what I've read on the subject, forged aluminum pistons make a different sound during the combustin process, than cast, hypereutectic aluminum pistons.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Well think about it. The coatings are baked on at a little over 400 degrees. Doe your combustion chamber see temps of more than 400 degrees? Hell yes it does.