Intake Manifold Pressure dropping at Higher RPM..
From Vince's last dyno...
@3062 MAP = 14.8
@3821 MAP = 14.6
@4300 MAP = 14.5
@5227 MAP = 14.4
@6000 MAP = 14.2
@6700 MAP = 14.1
Any reduction in manifold pressure will cost HP. If you could eliminate the pressure drops in the intake tract the car would make more HP.
Tim
@2728 MAP = 14.6
@3350 MAP = 14.4
@4230 MAP = 14.2
@4800 MAP = 13.9
@5400 MAP = 13.6
@6700 MAP = 13.5
The large motors really need some help.
Tim
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<img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" /> the most straightforward way to get your
answer, is to take a vacuum gauge and tap
the intake tract at every intermediate
point (probably selected by the ease of
repair). Under air filter, inside lid, between
MAF & TB, and the manifold itself. The difference
between pressure/vacuum readings down the line
identifies the contribution of each "resistor".
If you used a capillary or very small vacuum
tube, and put it in from the bottom where the
repairs wouldn't show, this would be a good
experiment. Throw some real light on the
relative worthwhileness of various mods.
Get onto Ken Kelly...you guys need mafless tuning over there. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
<strong> We have found on a head and cam car that removing the maf is worth 10+hp and MAP increases from 93kpa to 99kpa...hence the restriction is less.
Get onto Ken Kelly...you guys need mafless tuning over there. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How accurate is MAFless tuning? Is that just based on rpm or what?
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by HOWQUICK:
<strong> We have found on a head and cam car that removing the maf is worth 10+hp and MAP increases from 93kpa to 99kpa...hence the restriction is less.
Get onto Ken Kelly...you guys need mafless tuning over there. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How accurate is MAFless tuning? Is that just based on rpm or what? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">based on rpm and map then with the usual parameters. Is as accurate as the tuning you put in it.
Works great for us over here.
1) While WOT tuning is pretty easy part throttle will take some time to get accurate (if you're concerned about it)
2) The PCM won't accomodate atmospheric changes well. This will require more attention to the tuning as weather changes.
I'd say if you have a track only car then go SD but if the car must be driven as a daily driver I'd sacrifice the HP and keep the car running as efficiently as possible.
Tim
<strong>Now i feel its worth mentioning that real powerful LS1 motors can also start pulling vacuum(pressure drop) because of small intake plenum size and long runner lengths that LS1 style intakes are known for. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Was wondering if that was going to get mentioned.





