UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

It can be a slight pain to get the exact degree set on the bolts. You are always second guessing yourself when looking at the lines. Are they perfectly horizontal? are they perfectly vertical? is it 50 degrees diagional?
and it is also kind of hard to mark the back bolts accurately and kind of hard to see them as well.
Not sure how perfectly exact you need to be...but it drives me nuts because I had to get them just right.

The arp's would be much easier to use.
But either will work just fine.

marv

iTrader: (40)

Thanks for the info.

Does anyone have a PN on this longer crank bolt that is used for the install?

I found the specs of the bolt, but was unsure if it can be ordered directly from GM.

Thanks.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You can remove one the big hex head water jacket plug in the block on the drivers side to reduce the amount of water in the heads when you remove them. This minimizes the water that can get into the head bolt holes and everywhere else for that matter as you lift off the heads. The coolant can be reused if you catch it in a clean drain pan and strain it thru cheese cloth when you refill the resevoir. As far as the bolts are concerned the problem is more with the installation than the removal especially the rearmost ones. You need to be sure the socket is straight and square on the bolt head as you turn the last few degrees which are the most difficult. A 6 point socket would be best and be sure to have a good selection of extensions and deep well sockets. These sometimes come in handy when trying to get the perfect purchase on the bolt head and the 90 degree angle you want between the socket head and the lever (breaker bar, wratchet, torque wrench) you're using to make the final turn. As far as being exact on the 50 degree value I don't think you really have to as long as you're pretty close. It's hard enough getting to the rearmost bolts with a socket let alone trying to see if you've got the sharpie mark at EXACTLY 50 degrees. I usually settle for 45 which is a whole lot easier to judge.

Jon87transam

iTrader: (1)

after you torque your heads, pour a quart of oil on each head to wash down any contaminants to the oil pan. before startup, change the oil, and all the contaminants (including any unseen coolant) will be flushed out. just my .02!

dont forget to clean out the bolt holes before putting in head bolts, you don't want to crack a block.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

1. Patience.
2. An extra day off work just in case.
3. Plenty of alcohol.

zo6vetteman2003

iTrader: (1)

Remember to drain both the heads of coolant and radiator of coolant to a low enough level below the heads so when you pull them, you keep residual coolant out of the bores and minimize coolant in the head bolt holes.
If you plan on removing the heads and leaving the bores open for awhile, it is good to lightly coat the bores with some motor oil. Some people like to seal them off too.
I used a plastic window ice scraper to remove left over gasket material. Alittle coolant seems to dissolve the residual gasket material on a rag also. Keep the shop-vac. very close to your scrapings to catch the material coming off. I also used the shop-vac and made a hose fitting out of a drinking straw to remove the coolant and oil out of the head bolt holes. People using rolled up paper towels are in for a long tedious job. Compressed air works great, but tends to travel everywhere. The stock head bolts are torque to yield and cannot be reused. ARP fasteners make the torque sequence job much easier without worries. A set of new stock GM head bolts can be used, but you will need a torque angle meter in addition for bolt stretch, but you will save alot of money, but you can't make any mistakes.
ARP makes a thread chaser to clean the threads for accurate torque readings. I apply some engine assembly lube under the head bolt hex heads for a friction free reading.

marv

iTrader: (40)

Thanks to everyone whose responded. I hope to get this underway tonight and finished by this weekend.

Regarding the ARP studs, I assume you still use the same torque values and sequence as you would with regular GM torque-to-yield head bolts? Do you have to torque the studs in to the block before you install the heads?

Just a couple things I've been wondering about.

Thanks.

'02 SLP#686

iTrader: (1)

ARP will include torque specs with the bolts

'02 SLP#686

iTrader: (1)

Again... use transmission fluid on the cylinders NOT MOTOR OIL!

marv

iTrader: (40)

Great man, thanks. That's what I was needing to know.

Anyone else can feel free to chime in. Never hurts to have more than enough info.

marv

iTrader: (40)

Just thought of another question.

Where can I find the 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool? I was going to stop by Autozone or Advance and see if they had one I could rent.

Any other suggestions?

'02 SLP#686

iTrader: (1)

Autozon or advanced will have the tool, it can be tricky to get in there, but it works.

zo6vetteman2003

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...5&page=1&pp=20
There are quite a few methods out there. Tell us more about why tranny fluid is your preference.

marv

iTrader: (40)

Yet another question:

I assume the crank bolt is standard thread (counter clockwise for loosening) and not reverse thread correct?

On another note, I got started last night. One thing I did that the ls1howto.com guide did not mention was drop the fan shroud out the bottom of the car. This made the removal of the radiator much easier (I probably wouldn't have gotten the rad out without doing this).

So far so good. Will be removing the ignition/intake/exhaust tonight I hope.

Thanks for the advice everyone!