How clean do you get the block surface on a head swap?
How clean do you get the block surface on a head swap? I'm in the middle of a headswap right now and was under the impression that all I had to do was get an ice scraper after the gasket material and I'd be fine. LS1howto doesn't mention using anything but an ice scraper. Now I'm seeing pics where people have gotten the block surface to look perfectly clean like it's just been machined.
Does it need to be this clean??
I'll be using cometics .045 and was wondering those of you that have had leaks with cometics, what did you do wrong? Maybe you didn't get all the matieral off?
Does it need to be this clean??
I'll be using cometics .045 and was wondering those of you that have had leaks with cometics, what did you do wrong? Maybe you didn't get all the matieral off?
With the bores and lifter areas sealed I used my dremel tool with a bronze brush very lightly to go over the sealing surface. Worked wonders. The sealing surface being cleaned is essential and if not will lead to alot of frustration and work down the road. Seeing that you are using cosmetics it makes it even more essential as they seem to be leak prone even on a properly prepped block.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
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From: Texas and Qatar
I've been using the "Gasket Remover" spray lately on the graphite gaskets, just spray it, wait 30 minutes and scrape it off, sometimes need to do it twice. It also doesn't hurt to take a razor blade to some of the rough spots that are hard to remove, just don't gouge the block, do it lightly and it will be fine.
Gasket remover & a scoth brite pad BY HAND will clean nicely. Wouldn't recommend any power tool use or anything but plastic blades. I realize that people have used power tools & metal blades successfully, but, it's a risk. After cleaning, spray the head, block (not including the top of the pistons), & gasket w/ copper head gasket spray (mounting surfaces only). This is a precaution just in case there's a questionable spot in the cleaning. The copper will safely fill the void.
This is what has worked best for me w/ aluminum heads. Have had head distributors tell me that all aluminim heads need to be machined a thousandth or so to ensure no ridges every time an aluminum head is pulled. Although it's not bad advice, I choose not to unless there is an obvious gouge or warpage. Good-luck.
This is what has worked best for me w/ aluminum heads. Have had head distributors tell me that all aluminim heads need to be machined a thousandth or so to ensure no ridges every time an aluminum head is pulled. Although it's not bad advice, I choose not to unless there is an obvious gouge or warpage. Good-luck.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 321
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From: Buffalo, N.Y.
I used laquer thinner and a scotch brite to get the stuff my razor scraper wouldn't remove. I made sure I didn't "work" one spot too long....rub a little on a stubborn spot, then a half-dozen or so strokes the full length of the deck to keep everything "even".
Take your time, don't use a lot of pressure, and don't rub on one spot for too long, and you'll be fine. The deck will look great when you're done, and you should have no sealing problems. I got lucky with mine, as there wasn't really a lot of stubborn crap stuck to the deck.
While you're at it, check out the area where your lifter trays bolt in. The threaded bosses the trays bolt to should have a nice chamfer all the way around them. Mine were LOADED with hanging burrs. But then again, so was the rest of my block....which turned a simple heads/cam/intake swap into a total engine re-build.
Take your time, don't use a lot of pressure, and don't rub on one spot for too long, and you'll be fine. The deck will look great when you're done, and you should have no sealing problems. I got lucky with mine, as there wasn't really a lot of stubborn crap stuck to the deck.
While you're at it, check out the area where your lifter trays bolt in. The threaded bosses the trays bolt to should have a nice chamfer all the way around them. Mine were LOADED with hanging burrs. But then again, so was the rest of my block....which turned a simple heads/cam/intake swap into a total engine re-build.
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Originally Posted by Demon SS
this is what we use http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...2d2e050665e26e
