Spun bearing or collapsed lifter?
Check the oil, dump the pan if you haev to inspect then you will be able to see the bearings once you pull the rods off. Sounds like a rod bearing if the lifters are ok. You'll see bearing material in the oil, but the fool-proof way is to actually check the bearings. If its bad, you will be able to see the bearing spun without even taking the rod cap off.
Why take a chance at this point, tear it down make sure you find the problem while everything is apart.
- Matt
Why take a chance at this point, tear it down make sure you find the problem while everything is apart.
- Matt
Any ideas on what cause me to spin the a bearing, i mean i had all coated race bearings, lunati pro-mod forged rods w/arp bolts, ported ls6 oil pump. All on a freash build 4-5k miles old and fully balanced. Shouldn't that bottom end be able to handle 7k for a couple of seconds (the car actually bounced of the 7k mark like 3 times, so i guess i could of been more than 7k) 
Prior to that the highest revs that car had seen was approx. 6800 maybe 6900. I really need all the advise i can get on this one. Before I took the heads off the car it started and idle normal, didnt really drive it much, just on and off the trailer. The knock was minimal too, personally i thought it was just a lifter, but when I checked them they were all fine. Can I get away with just putting a new set of bearings on there and should i reuse the arp rod bolts or should i get a new set of bolts. I have a tubular k-member so I think the oil pan will come of fairly easly, thats why i just want to replace the bearings rather than to take it all apart. What do you guys think? Oh yeah the block was a 00'. and when i drained the oil did get some metal not too much though. Any kind of improvements I can do to the bottom end to prevent this from happening again? How should I approach this problem, what are my options?
Prior to that the highest revs that car had seen was approx. 6800 maybe 6900. I really need all the advise i can get on this one. Before I took the heads off the car it started and idle normal, didnt really drive it much, just on and off the trailer. The knock was minimal too, personally i thought it was just a lifter, but when I checked them they were all fine. Can I get away with just putting a new set of bearings on there and should i reuse the arp rod bolts or should i get a new set of bolts. I have a tubular k-member so I think the oil pan will come of fairly easly, thats why i just want to replace the bearings rather than to take it all apart. What do you guys think? Oh yeah the block was a 00'. and when i drained the oil did get some metal not too much though. Any kind of improvements I can do to the bottom end to prevent this from happening again? How should I approach this problem, what are my options? Last edited by goodol'93z; Jun 4, 2006 at 05:09 AM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Yes, You can swap to dry sump.
I'm a firm believer from what I've experienced and seen that LS motors and 7K rpms do not mix well on wet sumps especialy at the drags.
A good exemple is the new LS7.
I'm a firm believer from what I've experienced and seen that LS motors and 7K rpms do not mix well on wet sumps especialy at the drags.
A good exemple is the new LS7.
Originally Posted by EXILE
this suck i just spun a bearing also had my 98 block rebuilt with forged internals 16 months ago builder never said **** to me about the 98 blocks same symtoms as the orginal post
Since this engine is a rebuild with aftermarket rods and stock crank it is also possible that the spun bearing could have been set up wrong during the build. If you decide to just replace the bearing make sure you check it for the proper clearance with plastigauge. And no I have no idea what it should be. 
Dirty engine... If the bearing[s] are toast, the engine MUST come out, and be completely disassembled. This will:
A. Allow the inspection of all components, to determine why it failed. Failure to do so, as in "replace the bad brg[s] and run it", can/will result in another failure.
B. The trash from the brgs is already pumped thru the engine. [You've found it in the lifter area.] It will also be in the oil passages, pump, filter, piston skirts, lifter bodies, and other brgs.
C. If it's spun, you can be assured the bearing bore is FUBAR...
I'd cut the filter open, and see what's there. Cut it w/ a filter cutter, or a tinsnips.. no hacksaw...
A. Allow the inspection of all components, to determine why it failed. Failure to do so, as in "replace the bad brg[s] and run it", can/will result in another failure.
B. The trash from the brgs is already pumped thru the engine. [You've found it in the lifter area.] It will also be in the oil passages, pump, filter, piston skirts, lifter bodies, and other brgs.
C. If it's spun, you can be assured the bearing bore is FUBAR...
I'd cut the filter open, and see what's there. Cut it w/ a filter cutter, or a tinsnips.. no hacksaw...
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by goodol'93z
Any ideas on what cause me to spin the a bearing, i mean i had all coated race bearings, lunati pro-mod forged rods w/arp bolts, ported ls6 oil pump. All on a freash build 4-5k miles old and fully balanced. Shouldn't that bottom end be able to handle 7k for a couple of seconds (the car actually bounced of the 7k mark like 3 times, so i guess i could of been more than 7k) Prior to that the highest revs that car had seen was approx. 6800 maybe 6900. I really need all the advise i can get on this one. Before I took the heads off the car it started and idle normal, didnt really drive it much, just on and off the trailer. The knock was minimal too, personally i thought it was just a lifter, but when I checked them they were all fine. Can I get away with just putting a new set of bearings on there and should i reuse the arp rod bolts or should i get a new set of bolts. I have a tubular k-member so I think the oil pan will come of fairly easly, thats why i just want to replace the bearings rather than to take it all apart. What do you guys think? Oh yeah the block was a 00'. and when i drained the oil did get some metal not too much though. Any kind of improvements I can do to the bottom end to prevent this from happening again? How should I approach this problem, what are my options?
Prior to that the highest revs that car had seen was approx. 6800 maybe 6900. I really need all the advise i can get on this one. Before I took the heads off the car it started and idle normal, didnt really drive it much, just on and off the trailer. The knock was minimal too, personally i thought it was just a lifter, but when I checked them they were all fine. Can I get away with just putting a new set of bearings on there and should i reuse the arp rod bolts or should i get a new set of bolts. I have a tubular k-member so I think the oil pan will come of fairly easly, thats why i just want to replace the bearings rather than to take it all apart. What do you guys think? Oh yeah the block was a 00'. and when i drained the oil did get some metal not too much though. Any kind of improvements I can do to the bottom end to prevent this from happening again? How should I approach this problem, what are my options?Keep that in mind if you're going to reuse the same block
good luck getting it up and running again!
I am going through the same thing right now, check out this thread with video.... 
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-members/541772-engine-knocking-tapping-loud.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-members/541772-engine-knocking-tapping-loud.html
damn! right now im in the process of pulling then engine out because i spun the #6 rod bearing really bad. i would like to hear everyones opinion. Should i get the crank turned or should i replace it with an eagle forged crank i plan on spraying a 200 shot later down the road (it will only be sprayed occasionally) will a forged crank be needed or will the stocker hold up. Thanks in advance
