AFR 225 Bolt in intake tract?
AFR 225 Bolt in intake tract? checck out this pic of my intake port on the AFR225s, the bolt protruding into the intake is the rocker arm bolts, I thought this was kind of strange, kinda killing the airflow... 
I know that this kind of exposed internal tread for the rocker arm mounting bolt is common on other ported heads. There is no protrusion into the airstream and there is a very thin boundary layer of static air above the surface of the ports. I don't believe that this is causing any degradation of the air flow at all.
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
I know that this kind of exposed internal tread for the rocker arm mounting bolt is common on other ported heads. There is no protrusion into the airstream and there is a very thin boundary layer of static air above the surface of the ports. I don't believe that this is causing any degradation of the air flow at all.
Steve
Steve
Mine do that too. I was told you could either get a washer to shim the bolt up a bit or paint the tip of the bolt (torqued down) and remove it then grind the painted portion off. you would have to get a die and clean teh threads though....
Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
...or paint the tip of the bolt (torqued down) and remove it then grind the painted portion off. you would have to get a die and clean teh threads though....
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Verdad Gallardo I took a closer look. The first time, I didn't realize that the bolt was projecting into the airstream. I should have looked more carefully and read your initial post more carefully before I commented. Why don't you just give Tony Mamo a call about this and see what he has to say. I trust that he will make it right if there is a problem. Is this the only bolt that is projecting into the airstream?
Steve
Steve
all 8 cylinders look like that one. There is nothing tony mamo can do for me unless he wants to pay for labor to remove teh heads again 
I didn´t even see teh bolt holes untill I installed the rockers. Its nothing another lb of boost wont cure
I didn´t even see teh bolt holes untill I installed the rockers. Its nothing another lb of boost wont cure
Originally Posted by Tiago
all 8 cylinders look like that one. There is nothing tony mamo can do for me unless he wants to pay for labor to remove teh heads again
I didn´t even see teh bolt holes untill I installed the rockers. Its nothing another lb of boost wont cure
I didn´t even see teh bolt holes untill I installed the rockers. Its nothing another lb of boost wont cure
if i were u i wouldnt even worry about it... i gurantee that wont make even a 1hp diff with that bolt being in there......
Originally Posted by Frans96SS
if i were u i wouldnt even worry about it... i gurantee that wont make even a 1hp diff with that bolt being in there......
oh well
Originally Posted by Tiago
I agree, I just found it weird. Would think they would make the bolts shorter and make the intake solid, why have a protrusion?
oh well
oh well
yeah who knows haha.....
Guys...
This situation will be present with ANY ported heads that remove the factory GM bolt boss which obviously impedes flow. It is NOT related to just an AFR product. (Which I think covers about 99% of the ported heads on the market).
The paint is a good idea for someone that doesn't have alot of experience with a grinder. I torqued my Crane Shaftmounts down, ground the bolt flush with the roof of the port, backed out the bolt and deburred the sharp edges, reinstalled back to the same torque spec for a perfect fit. I DON'T recommend this method unless you have alot of experience preferrably porting cylinder heads and the like....it's easy to slip off the bolt and screw up the shape of the port's roof which will cost you power, not help you make more.
Whats it worth??....probably not alot, but it's one of those attention to detail things I'm always preaching about that the average guy doesn't do (or even notice), and it might be worth a couple of ponies when the smoke clears....especially on some of the longer bolts with some kits that really stick down into the port (the example in this thread wasn't too bad).
Hope this helps (and gives you "****" guys something else to do...LOL)
Tony M.
PS....Don't forget that each of those eight intake bolts are now fitted to their perspective runner....mark them in the event they come out down the road. If you mix them up they will not fit perfectly flush in the wrong hole and it would be a time consuming PITA trying to figure which bolt goes where for best fit.
This situation will be present with ANY ported heads that remove the factory GM bolt boss which obviously impedes flow. It is NOT related to just an AFR product. (Which I think covers about 99% of the ported heads on the market).
The paint is a good idea for someone that doesn't have alot of experience with a grinder. I torqued my Crane Shaftmounts down, ground the bolt flush with the roof of the port, backed out the bolt and deburred the sharp edges, reinstalled back to the same torque spec for a perfect fit. I DON'T recommend this method unless you have alot of experience preferrably porting cylinder heads and the like....it's easy to slip off the bolt and screw up the shape of the port's roof which will cost you power, not help you make more.
Whats it worth??....probably not alot, but it's one of those attention to detail things I'm always preaching about that the average guy doesn't do (or even notice), and it might be worth a couple of ponies when the smoke clears....especially on some of the longer bolts with some kits that really stick down into the port (the example in this thread wasn't too bad).
Hope this helps (and gives you "****" guys something else to do...LOL)
Tony M.
PS....Don't forget that each of those eight intake bolts are now fitted to their perspective runner....mark them in the event they come out down the road. If you mix them up they will not fit perfectly flush in the wrong hole and it would be a time consuming PITA trying to figure which bolt goes where for best fit.
Last edited by Tony Mamo @ AFR; May 14, 2006 at 05:39 PM.
Why not just install a slightly shorter bolt??? Would make alot more sense to me. I'm sure the bolt is an odd length like 32 or 33 mm. I can't seem to locate exactly what the length is but I'd think about doing that.
Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
Guys...
This situation will be present with ANY ported heads that remove the factory GM bolt boss which obviously impedes flow. It is NOT related to just an AFR product. (Which I think covers about 99% of the ported heads on the market).
The paint is a good idea for someone that doesn't have alot of experience with a grinder. I torqued my Crane Shaftmounts down, ground the bolt flush with the roof of the port, backed out the bolt and deburred the sharp edges, reinstalled back to the same torque spec for a perfect fit. I DON'T recommend this method unless you have alot of experience preferrably porting cylinder heads and the like....it's easy to slip off the bolt and screw up the shape of the port's roof which will cost you power, not help you make more.
Whats it worth??....probably not alot, but it's one of those attention to detail things I'm always preaching about that the average guy doesn't do (or even notice), and it might be worth a couple of ponies when the smoke clears....especially on some of the longer bolts with some kits that really stick down into the port (the example in this thread wasn't too bad).
Hope this helps (and gives you "****" guys something else to do...LOL)
Tony M.
PS....Don't forget that each of those eight intake bolts are now fitted to their perspective runner....mark them in the event they come out down the road. If you mix them up they will not fit perfectly flush in the wrong hole and it would be a time consuming PITA trying to figure which bolt goes where for best fit.
This situation will be present with ANY ported heads that remove the factory GM bolt boss which obviously impedes flow. It is NOT related to just an AFR product. (Which I think covers about 99% of the ported heads on the market).
The paint is a good idea for someone that doesn't have alot of experience with a grinder. I torqued my Crane Shaftmounts down, ground the bolt flush with the roof of the port, backed out the bolt and deburred the sharp edges, reinstalled back to the same torque spec for a perfect fit. I DON'T recommend this method unless you have alot of experience preferrably porting cylinder heads and the like....it's easy to slip off the bolt and screw up the shape of the port's roof which will cost you power, not help you make more.
Whats it worth??....probably not alot, but it's one of those attention to detail things I'm always preaching about that the average guy doesn't do (or even notice), and it might be worth a couple of ponies when the smoke clears....especially on some of the longer bolts with some kits that really stick down into the port (the example in this thread wasn't too bad).
Hope this helps (and gives you "****" guys something else to do...LOL)
Tony M.
PS....Don't forget that each of those eight intake bolts are now fitted to their perspective runner....mark them in the event they come out down the road. If you mix them up they will not fit perfectly flush in the wrong hole and it would be a time consuming PITA trying to figure which bolt goes where for best fit.
I didn't mean to single out your product, infact I think the heads look BAD ***
the bolt thing just cought me by surprise. I think it will put down lots of power, results next weekend
Also, use permatex # 2 on the bolt threads to prevent oil from coming through ( on any head that is ported where the bolt sticks out ) and loctitce blue under the head of the bolt to prevent it from backing out.
Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
Guys...
Hope this helps (and gives you "****" guys something else to do...LOL)
Tony M.
Hope this helps (and gives you "****" guys something else to do...LOL)
Tony M.
OTOH, it would be a nice touch if heads came with a set of one-off matching rocker bolts.
Just kidding!
Originally Posted by Viper
Also FWIW Harlan Sharp ships shorter bolts when you buy the remans from them.
Also I didn't use any kind of thread sealer on the bolts because I didn't know they were going to protrude. Now I guess I ahve to redo it
