its been so long using stock bolts i forget. lol
what the tq on the stock bolts?
top are 22 but whats the rest?
thanks

 

COURTESY OF LS1HOWTO.COM (revised)



Using the sequence illustrated above, torque all 10 15mm bolts to 22lb-ft.

Take a felt tip marker and draw a horizontal line on the head of each bolt. This is very important.

Now, using the sequence illustrated above, turn all 10 15mm bolts an additional 90 degrees using a large socket wrench and a lot of muscle. Try to get as close to 90 degrees as possible...you may have to do multiple turns of 30 degrees or 2 turns of 45 degrees. When done all the lines on the bolt heads should be totally vertical.

Next, again using the sequence above, turn bolts 1 through 8 another 90 degrees. This will take an immense amount of effort...if you have a buddy helping both of you should turn the wrench simultaniously. These 8 bolts will now all have horizontal lines on them

Using the sequence above, turn bolts 9 and 10 an additional 50 degrees. Again, this will take a lot of effort. 50 degrees should result in a diagonal line on the bolts

Finally, using the sequence above, torque bolts 11 through 15 to 22 lb-ft.

 

thanks, but **** thats worse then head studs. lol

 

This doesn't apply to ARP head bolts does it?

 

umm why would all the "lines' have to be verticle? why not jus up the torque to what it wold be otherwise..

 

That's what I'm curious about. It's impossible to see the last bolt (number 10) on the passanger side without a mirror so it'll be a pain in the A$$ to see/make a line on the bolt. ARP has torque specs that I think I'm just gonna go by.

 

Because stock bolts are torque to yield bolts. They are stretched after their initial torque. It's not a set torque value when you are finished.

 

Use ARP bolts or studs you'll thank me later....

 

This is for stock gm bolts only. ARP BOLTS have their own set torque setting, and so do the studs. They are both different. As said the GM bolts are torque to yield and they stretch. So in theory they can be reading the same torque even though they are still turning because the bolt is actually twisting within itself while mainting the same torque. Like if the max the bolt can be torqued without twisting is 100lb/ft then it will read 100 lb/ft even though you are still turning it another 45*

 

The "sharpie" method works, but is not 100% accurate. If you want pure accuracy use a TTA torque wrench. We just bought 3 of the new snap-on techangle ones, they are sweet.

Brad: if you want to borrow one I have no problem sending it up to you, just return it promptly because I'll know where you live !! j/k hit me with a PM if you want to borrow one, they are simple, even you could use it... hahaha

 

for what its worth, this isnt my motor, i know to run good studs. lol
this is a stocker for a kid to throw in. he hasnt brought me the motor yet anyway, but if he does, we will go from there.

Matt, thanks for the offer! i just got a new snap on tq wrench, its sweet! not sure what the TTA is tho?

 

TTA is torque to angle. So you can do the degree method in the proper way. The sharpie method is OK, but not 100% accurate.

 

cool!!!

 

what happends if your off a couple degrees. i just did mine and i think i may have a couple off here and there.

 

Just be sure to get them as close as possible on the last set of turns...I highly recommend 2 people to do this, makes it a little easier.

 

but some bolts got there easier and dont seem as tight as others. should i just leave them?

 

Hey, here you are talking about Re Torque GM head bolts

You can learn more about this at ICEV

 

Hey, here you are replying to a 16 year old dead thread with crap that has no relevance here.
So politely buzz off.

 

I'm pretty sure that's either a Chinese or Russian bot. The software guys who make those need to get their practice in for the upcoming election.

 

I checked his info- Birthplace shows as "IN". India? If so, likely also total bullshit.
Good call on bot practice.