Well, my car is dead

Hit it in first gear to about 4500 and shifted to 2nd and started coasting. I noticed blue smoke billowing out behind me.
I was stuck in traffic, so as soon as the light turned green I softly let out the clutch and it went BANG CLUNK BANG (for lack of a better description)

She will not fire again
Just a "clunk"

I've got maybe 150 miles on my new Head/cam
P&P 241 heads, Ferrea 2.02/1.57 valves, TSP torquer V.2 cam, FAST intake/TB, rollmaster double timing chain, Katech LS6 oil pump, LT's, ORY....

Any thoughts?

 

You do the build-up?

 

Id imagine something went wrong with the swap.

 

keep us updated and let us know what let go im looking at that same cam

 

how was your oil pressure?

 

Guessing since it's so close to the swap that it must be related to that. 150 miles is abut enough time to let some bolts back out of the original torque spec if no loc-tite was used.

The fact that there was billowing smoke means a large amount of oil was getting into the cylinder(s). Perhaps a valve spring broke which cut the valve stem seal letting oil in, and then the valve dropped at the stop light.

Keep this thread updated and let us know what it was. Sorry to hear about it.

 

Yup, I did the install using the instructions from LS1howto. Double and triple checked everything I did. My dad and I spent 3 days taking our time putting it back together.
Oil pressure was fine.

Blue smoke out back of car, knocking like crazy at idle and as soon as I let out the clutch it BANGED loud as hell and stalled. Hit the key it it just does a loud "clunk"

Any thoughts on what it would be?

 

This may be a silly question, but was the car warmed up before you jumped on it? Aftermarket springs dont like to be revved up when they are cold.

 

Yup, car had been driven for awhile and the water and oil temp were around 180.

 

Might've lost a valvespring, and the valve has made it into the combustion chamber and bent, blocking the piston from coming up to TDC
Take the valve covers off and check the springs, obviously something is blocking the rotation, and that's the easiest to check

 

The spring(s) might have been compromised earlier. The 1st time the car is started with new springs they have to be hot and then cool completely overnight before taking the rpm above 4 grand.

I put standard LT1 springs on my '94 back when I changed to 1.6 roller rockers and I started beating on the car right away once it warmed up. About 100 miles later it was blowing smoke and getting worse. It turns out that the inner spring broke and cut the seal, but the outer spring kept the valve from dropping.

Perhaps your spring had a defect and it failed partially which lead to a chain reaction and it fully let go and the valve dropped... it's the oil in the cylinder that has me coming back to the valve spring/seal issue.

 

I was super **** about the break-in. I didn't take it over 3000 for the first 100 miles after the H/C swap. Even after I changed the oil and was "ready to go" I still waited a few days before I let it loose

Valve covers will come off in the morning.
If a valve dropped I hope my pistons are ok?!?!?!

 

If it dropped a valve you are in serious trouble

 

If a valve dropped then you can pretty much kiss that piston goodbye. Hopefully the valve didn't get back up to the cylinder head. If it's a dropped valve you're going to be pulling the short block. Hopefully (50% chance) that head wasn't damaged.

 

If a valve dropped the piston is TOAST....Sorry let us know what ya find. Were the heads milled? What kind of P/V clearance did you have?

 

Heads were only cleaned up, milled .008". P/V clearance was fine since Texas-Speed recommended the Torquer V.2 vs the Magic Stick.

 

how much duration/lift is it

Maybe you didnt drop a valve... get the valve covers off

 

Did you tune it? But it sounds more mechanical.

 

Valve did drop.....and put a hole in the piston
I'll post the pics

 

Sorry man.... Im curious did the spring break? What springs were you using?