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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:16 AM
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where can you get a solid roller,should make more power,i have not seen much about solid rollers
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 02:12 PM
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any info
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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any info
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 11:37 PM
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You get them custom ground to your specs, and it takes a lot more than just buying a SR cam to make it work. SR cars are pretty hard core usually strip more than street.

Is a big hydrolic (240-250 / 600-620) really too small for your application?
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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Contact some sponsors like futral or TSP. Like boostaholic said, hydraulic cams are fairly big and few people really need a solid roller. If youre sure you want a solid roller, be prepared to shell out twice what a hydraulic setup costs.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:56 AM
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Forgetting the big issue, solids have a faster ramp. This allows you to have less overlap and more compression while still having big .200 numbers. For example, a 230@.050 has 153 degrees at .0200, .368" tappet lift, yet only 268 degrees off the seat. For comparison, an XE-R 230@.050 is 151@.200, has .348" lift but is a big 279 off the seat. To get near 279, a street solid roller would be a 242@.050.

They also enable/require you to run a stiffer valve spring. Net, you can make more power and run smoother for any specific lift and duration.

The disadvantages include more noise, the need for a stiff valvetrain to support the springs (probably including adjustable shaft rockers, the need for an occasional lash adjustment, issues with needle bearing wear in low rpm street use (the solution possibly being a $920 set of Schubeck lifters, although some people have reported ok street use with Iskys or Crowers), and the need for a bigger spring pocket, as most solid roller springs will want a 1.55" spring, although some will work on a 1.45" spring. I haven't seen any 1.3" springs with 250" on the seat, a 500# rate, and .7-.75 or greater distance between installed height and coil bind.
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