Cam Polishing ???
#1
Cam Polishing ???
I bought a cam from a member on here a few days ago. Per the seller,the cam was installed but never run. I received the cam yesterday and it was wrapped in a paper towel, for how long I am not sure but it seems to be quite a while. The problem is that this caused a moisture lock and rusted several of the lobes I am assuming due to the assembly lube. I need to know what to do or even if the cam is usable at this point. I would never buy used engine parts but it seemed like a good deal as the cam as stated was installed but never run. There are no signs of wear or that it was ever run just the paper towel stuck on in some rusted areas and the apparent rust on the cam.
Can it be polished and used or am I basically fucked and out the money. Here are some pics I took with my cell phone. Let me know what you think. The bright orange stuff is mostly pieces of paper towel bonded to the cam. I am going to try a scotchbrite pad and wd-40 when I get a chance but is there any vendors that could polish it. Needless to say I am pretty pissed as I should have just bought the Torquer V2 that I wanted. The specs on this cam are 232/236, .595/.602 on a 114LSA.
Can it be polished and used or am I basically fucked and out the money. Here are some pics I took with my cell phone. Let me know what you think. The bright orange stuff is mostly pieces of paper towel bonded to the cam. I am going to try a scotchbrite pad and wd-40 when I get a chance but is there any vendors that could polish it. Needless to say I am pretty pissed as I should have just bought the Torquer V2 that I wanted. The specs on this cam are 232/236, .595/.602 on a 114LSA.
Last edited by big reg; 06-07-2006 at 01:28 PM.
#3
Depending on how deep the rust is will determine if the cam is still useable. Any rust is oxidation and therefore will pit. You may be able to have it finish ground or refinished. I would look into having that done. I've seen pictures of cams and lifters that galled and it wasn't pretty.
#6
Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I hope it didnt arrive at your door like that. What were they trying to do? Freak you out.
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#8
Hey boss with the rusty cam. Hit this thing on a bench style wire wheel. Inspect the lobes to see if material has good size pits.If not run the thing.These cores are plenty hard.If the journals dont clean up, I would run it to a local machine shop with a crank polisher or lathe and spin it. You could also try using scotch bright on the lobes as well. Roller camshafts dont wear unless the core is borderline soft. Then the rollers start to dig in. I see alot of posts here were guys shy away from used cams and say it has this amount of miles. New or used if it has good lobes it'll run. If not sent me all those old bones! I'll grind um
#9
Originally Posted by Wheelzee99
Hey boss with the rusty cam. Hit this thing on a bench style wire wheel. Inspect the lobes to see if material has good size pits.If not run the thing.
#11
No, not jesus christ, but common sense. Sure looks like a sticky paper and some staining to me from the pics. Any of you guys actualy build motors or been around engine components? This is isn't a cast iron billet here with a spinning friction lifter. This is a heat treated billet cam with no taper on the lobes. The roller on the lifter doesn't know there's pits or staining it keeps on rolling on that flat ground lobe. Even if there were minor pits I'd still run it. There not enough spring pressure to kill a lobe in these. Its a hydralic roller with about 320lbs on the nose if your lucky to have some decent springs.
I've never came acroos a WIRE WHEELS that actully removes metal. Maybe 00TransAMnh can find me one........
I've never came acroos a WIRE WHEELS that actully removes metal. Maybe 00TransAMnh can find me one........
#12
it ruins surface finish smart ***... why dont you take a look at the problems futral was having with his cams
i wonder why that was... hmm maybe surface finish was blowing lifters?
dont use a wire wheel
i wonder why that was... hmm maybe surface finish was blowing lifters?
dont use a wire wheel
#13
Originally Posted by Wheelzee99
No, not jesus christ, but common sense. Sure looks like a sticky paper and some staining to me from the pics. Any of you guys actualy build motors or been around engine components? This is isn't a cast iron billet here with a spinning friction lifter. This is a heat treated billet cam with no taper on the lobes. The roller on the lifter doesn't know there's pits or staining it keeps on rolling on that flat ground lobe. Even if there were minor pits I'd still run it. There not enough spring pressure to kill a lobe in these. Its a hydralic roller with about 320lbs on the nose if your lucky to have some decent springs.
I've never came acroos a WIRE WHEELS that actully removes metal. Maybe 00TransAMnh can find me one........
I've never came acroos a WIRE WHEELS that actully removes metal. Maybe 00TransAMnh can find me one........
You start grinding and scratching around on it with a wire wheel you are asking for a serious problem. Essentially what will happen is you will alter the specs on each lobe and they will end up different from each other.
Common sense would be the WD-40 method. You might as well have told him angle grinder....
Don't come around here giving shitty advice. All will happen is people will be constatnly pissed off at you.
And minor pitting? What the hell is wrong with you?
#14
Originally Posted by big reg
I do have a bench style wire wheel but was under the impression this was not a good idea.
That guy must have fallen down the stairs prior to posting that awesome advice on using a wire wheel.
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Laddimyr (02-08-2020)
#15
Wow, I guess you guys in here are a rough crowd.Keyboard tuff guys! Sorry that your the only guys on earth that can split a hair in to three. I dont offer "Shity " advice. There is no way in hell that a Bench style wire wheel will alter the cam specs and remove (grind as you call it) the metal. The guy is already buried in the cam. He could send it to Crane, Crower ,Comp, lunati, or the grinder of it and have it dusted too. You all should be ashamed of attacking me for my input. Your not talking to a MAGAZINE racer here Orangeappel. I have plenty knowledge of Cam lobe design and valvetrain dynamics. 00Transam I dont know Futral but if he's destroying lifters it isnt from cam surface. Hope you guys dont continue to butcher me on this one.
#16
Yes, you DO NOT want to touch the cam with a wire wheel. I can see using a cloth polishing wheel if your careful, but even that is sketchy. You gave a vulnerable LS1Tech user "inforomation" that will more then likely destroy his cam, losing the money he spent on it, when it might possibly be saved. Thats why they are getting down on you.
Let it soak in PB Blaster for a few hours and wipe it down. Looks to be surface oxidation and nothing TO deep
Let it soak in PB Blaster for a few hours and wipe it down. Looks to be surface oxidation and nothing TO deep
#17
Just clean it with WD-40 or similar, then check it out after that.
Do not use any grinders, wire wheels or instruments like that.
Wheelzee99, respect is earned not given.
Just relax or you'll end up branded as a
Do not use any grinders, wire wheels or instruments like that.
Wheelzee99, respect is earned not given.
Just relax or you'll end up branded as a
#18
Pitting and scratches will eventaully break apart the roller of the lifter. Surface rust will be fine, but if you hit it with a grinding wheel, youre asking for trouble. I have personally had pitting break more than one lifter apart. Just look at all the recent problems with the f-13 cams.
#19
Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
Let it soak in PB Blaster for a few hours and wipe it down. Looks to be surface oxidation and nothing TO deep