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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 01:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by xaon
If you are going to install new lifters, then you will need new Head Gaskets and bolts as well. The heads must be removed on these motors to replace lifters.

Other than that.. unless you already own the More Performance tool, you won't be able to purchase it. They are out of business and nobody has them in stock anymore... why they even continue to list it on their web page is beyond me.

just so you know the moore tool is still available for purchase one of the former employees continues to make it for thunder racing
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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is there anything else anyone would like to add? for instance the stretching of the longer bolt what is that all about?
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dnm12
is there anything else anyone would like to add? for instance the stretching of the longer bolt what is that all about?

The longer bolt is used to seat the pulley when reinstalling it. You use a new regular bolt after the pulley in seated.
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 12:03 AM
  #24  
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do i need to put a washer on the longer bolt to help?
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 08:01 AM
  #25  
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I used it to remove and place the balancer back on. You dont stretch it out. You do that with the new bolt. I beleive that when you hit 240lbft you are supposed to stretch 1/4 of a turn more.
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 09:20 AM
  #26  
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-Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Installation Pass-to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed)
=240 lb ft

-Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (First Pass-Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes)
=37 lb ft

-Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Final Pass)
=140 degrees


So basically i take the longer bolt put washers on it and then screw down the crank pulley to 240ft/lbs and then remove the bolt place a new one on and tighten down to 37ft/lbs, then another 140º??
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:37 PM
  #27  
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alright here is the update should be here by the end of the week....

-224/224 Cam with Lobe Seperation Angle=114º
-PRC Dual Springs
-Hardened chromoloy pushrods
-Titanium retainers
-Hardend Seats
-LS6 ported oil pump
-Rollmaster single roller non-adjustable timing chain
-Gasket kit
-O-ring for oil pump
-Moore Tool
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dnm12
alright here is the update should be here by the end of the week....

-224/224 Cam with Lobe Seperation Angle=114º
-PRC Dual Springs
-Hardened chromoloy pushrods
-Titanium retainers
-Hardend Seats
-LS6 ported oil pump
-Rollmaster single roller non-adjustable timing chain
-Gasket kit
-O-ring for oil pump
-Moore Tool
Don't forget to grab some spare valve stem locks, they are tiny, easy to drop and have a nasty habit of flying off when you remove the old springs/retainers.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 04:40 PM
  #29  
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do you know the part # of hand?
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dnm12
do you know the part # of hand?
Not off hand. If you know what it is you can point it out on a diagram to get the part number very quickly at the dealership. That is what I did.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 05:13 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dnm12
-Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Installation Pass-to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed)
=240 lb ft

-Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (First Pass-Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes)
=37 lb ft

-Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Final Pass)
=140 degrees


So basically i take the longer bolt put washers on it and then screw down the crank pulley to 240ft/lbs and then remove the bolt place a new one on and tighten down to 37ft/lbs, then another 140º??
I don't know why you would need washers, they would cancel out the purpose of the longer bolt. When you are ready to re-install the balancer use the longer bolt to get the balancer on as far as it will take it. The reason is that the regular bolt will only grab a few threads while the balancer is that far out and you could strip the threads in the crank. Then use the old regular bolt for the 240 lb ft pass. Then install the new regular length bolt to 37 lb ft and 140*
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 10:40 PM
  #32  
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what size of the longer thread bolt?? TIA

i am starting teardown tommarow!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 11:12 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dnm12
what size of the longer thread bolt?? TIA

i am starting teardown tommarow!
Bumped for you.

Does search work?

I never did get a longer bolt for my install. Wish I had, but it is doable without. Check my sig for details. I think it involved a torch....
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 11:32 PM
  #34  
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16m on 2.0 pitch, and 120mm in length, but a lot of people say just make this tool



but what is the rod in this tool?
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 12:22 AM
  #35  
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Wish i'd have seen this thread earlier.

the moore tool is a POS, it's in my garbage. You will probably have a hell of a time with those double springs and moore tool. I sure as hell did. Problem I had was that the springs had so much pressure it was hard to hold the tool down long enough for someone to get the locks on correctly, especially if we had to do one spring more then once. Then when it gets to the back ones, you need an extention, or I did anyway on the ratchet so my buddy could fit his hands back there which make it even harder to hold because you need to hold the head of the ratchet up or you'll never get enough throw on the spring to get the retianers on. You'll see, it's a bitch. Next time get the crane, it's twice as fast and eaiser to use. the bolt takes all the stress of the springs, not your arms. Some people seem to have luck with it, but my my Patriot golds, I hated it.

Also, I'd recommend getting an aftermarket pulley. You wont need any longer bolt or anything to get the pulley on, you'll got a good 4 or 5 turns on the bolt by hand. If you do use the longer bolt method, be sure not to over tighten it. Plenty of stories on this forum of people over tightening that longer bolt and stripping the threads on the crank.

other then that everything looks good to me!
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 12:25 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Bumped for you.

Does search work?

I never did get a longer bolt for my install. Wish I had, but it is doable without. Check my sig for details. I think it involved a torch....
Know what works well for me? A one foot piece of 1/2 inch plywood and a dead blow mallot. It just needs to go on evenly, give it a few blows and you should have enough to grab the threads.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 11:11 AM
  #37  
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yeah it really seems that the crank bolt is going to be the biggest pain, the more tool i have heard nothing but greatness about untill the one negative thread here
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dnm12
yeah it really seems that the crank bolt is going to be the biggest pain, the more tool i have heard nothing but greatness about untill the one negative thread here
here's a couple for you

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=moore+tool

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=moore+sucks

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=moore+sucks

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=moore+sucks

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=moore+sucks

And this was just searching for "moore sucks" If I did a broader search i'm sure i'd find a lot more.

Food for thought.
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 01:17 AM
  #39  
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so does anyone take off the fuel line on the driver side?
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 03:32 AM
  #40  
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I left it connected and just took off the injectors from the intake so I could remove it. They move around pretty easily, so you can just move them when theyre in the way.
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