Major Oil Problem - getting closer to an answer... need help!!
Leakdown is... Measured in %. What was the % of leak on all the cyls?
You cannot determine the condition of the rings/valves, by listening to the noise, or lack of.
Leakdown should be done w/ engine hot, valves backed off.
You said: "like i said... the leakdown tester showed perfect readings.. it stayed perfectly still at the "set" position on the guage...". NO WAY is that going to be the case. Even the most meticulous prep, zero gap rings, yadda, yadda, and you will have some leakdown.
You cannot determine the condition of the rings/valves, by listening to the noise, or lack of.
Leakdown should be done w/ engine hot, valves backed off.
You said: "like i said... the leakdown tester showed perfect readings.. it stayed perfectly still at the "set" position on the guage...". NO WAY is that going to be the case. Even the most meticulous prep, zero gap rings, yadda, yadda, and you will have some leakdown.
Originally Posted by Joel_SS
I can almost bet you have ring issues, or other serious problem. You need to test all 8 cylinders. Trust me I just walked down this very street you are on now. A PCV is not gonna suck a quart in 200 miles. All cylinders are gonna let a little air by that is why you feel a little coming outta the oil cap.
I am burning about a quart every 200 miles. However, a compression test on all 8 cylinders is right where it should be. I also ran a 13.3@108 with only a lid and chokemaster muffler on street tires. Would it run this well and with decent compression if there was a problem with the rings that allowed that much oil past?
Originally Posted by Old Geezer
Measured in %. What was the % of leak on all the cyls?
You cannot determine the condition of the rings/valves, by listening to the noise, or lack of.
Leakdown should be done w/ engine hot, valves backed off.
You said: "like i said... the leakdown tester showed perfect readings.. it stayed perfectly still at the "set" position on the guage...". NO WAY is that going to be the case. Even the most meticulous prep, zero gap rings, yadda, yadda, and you will have some leakdown.
You cannot determine the condition of the rings/valves, by listening to the noise, or lack of.
Leakdown should be done w/ engine hot, valves backed off.
You said: "like i said... the leakdown tester showed perfect readings.. it stayed perfectly still at the "set" position on the guage...". NO WAY is that going to be the case. Even the most meticulous prep, zero gap rings, yadda, yadda, and you will have some leakdown.
secondly, the % loss, seriously was nothing... the guage reads in 4 zones "set", "low", "mid", and "high", meaning the amount of compression lost...
so, i dont think we did anythign wrong... but it stayed in the "set" area... obviously, when the valves were open, it would drop to 100%, but once the piston was back to tdc, it stayed in the "set" position...
So, if i throw in a catch can, am i correct in assumign that this is only going to tell me what my problem is, and not really solve it? If i'm going through that much oil, that often, and its in fact the pcv, i dont' wanna empty the catch can every 50 miles.
Also, i've heard once that if you get a air/oil seperator, that you should take out the filter element. is that so?
Also, i've heard once that if you get a air/oil seperator, that you should take out the filter element. is that so?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Do the leakdown properly. As mentionned it is a % and should be done for all 8 cylinders.
If you don't know how hen pay someone to do it right.
Otherwise you'll be just chasing your own tail.
The test will point you in the right direction.
If you don't know how hen pay someone to do it right.
Otherwise you'll be just chasing your own tail.
The test will point you in the right direction.
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Verdad Gallardo When i did the leakdown, i did it with my friend who owns his own shop.... he knew how to do it, and even though i will finish the last cylinders, i'm positive he was doing it right... I"ll try to get them done as soon as possible..
but, that doesnt answer my question... say for example, so that i'm not wasting any more time that i already waste not gettin crap done (my own damn fault), if all they cylinders test out to be fine, then what is the answer to my questions above?
but, that doesnt answer my question... say for example, so that i'm not wasting any more time that i already waste not gettin crap done (my own damn fault), if all they cylinders test out to be fine, then what is the answer to my questions above?
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: TX.
what psi did u put to the tester?
i just cant see it staying in the set area of the gauge unless the gauge is fulty, or the psi was set wrong.
(not calling you a lier, please dont take it that way!)
im just saying there is some thing wrong with the test you ran.
good luck and hope you find the problem and fix it soon.
i just cant see it staying in the set area of the gauge unless the gauge is fulty, or the psi was set wrong.
(not calling you a lier, please dont take it that way!)
im just saying there is some thing wrong with the test you ran.
good luck and hope you find the problem and fix it soon.
Originally Posted by cueball
what psi did u put to the tester?
i just cant see it staying in the set area of the gauge unless the gauge is fulty, or the psi was set wrong.
(not calling you a lier, please dont take it that way!)
im just saying there is some thing wrong with the test you ran.
good luck and hope you find the problem and fix it soon.
i just cant see it staying in the set area of the gauge unless the gauge is fulty, or the psi was set wrong.
(not calling you a lier, please dont take it that way!)
im just saying there is some thing wrong with the test you ran.
good luck and hope you find the problem and fix it soon.
Honeslty though, i don't know how much was going in, and don't know how to tell... my buddy couldnt find the instructions booklet for it.
10 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge,LA
That tester is crap. You need the one with the 2 gauges, to get an accurate % of loss.
From your description, I can pretty much guarantee that it is the rings. Ive seen it time and time again. PCV will not burn that much oil, that quick. Worn Valve stem seals will usually burn more oil while the engine has the most vacuum. If its burning at high RPM's its rings.
From your description, I can pretty much guarantee that it is the rings. Ive seen it time and time again. PCV will not burn that much oil, that quick. Worn Valve stem seals will usually burn more oil while the engine has the most vacuum. If its burning at high RPM's its rings.
welp.... I went back to my buddy, and he reassured me that we did the leak-down correctly... said a valid point "it doesnt matter how much air you push into it, its not going to cover up the cylinder leakage if there is any"... or somethign to that effect.
So, today i'm going to pop the intake manifold off and see if there is oil on the back of teh intake vavles. If there is, well then, my answer is that the heads are allowing oil to run down the valve stems.... And new heads will be bought... we'll see.. i'll keep you posted
So, today i'm going to pop the intake manifold off and see if there is oil on the back of teh intake vavles. If there is, well then, my answer is that the heads are allowing oil to run down the valve stems.... And new heads will be bought... we'll see.. i'll keep you posted
i already put in a catch can, so what would a LS6 valley cover do me? (not being smart, just a serious question).... The catch can does catch some oil, but nothing major.... apparently enough though, because when i took the intake off today, it had oil in it for sure!
but back to good news for me and just1news6, i didn't get the intake off completely, because of something that was hooked to the back of it... i didnt really wanna break anything, and i couldnt tell what was hooked onto, or into it in the very back (anybody know?)... but anyhow, i got it lifted up and peeked down into the head on the first cylinder on both sides of the motor.... Well, what to say except, holy sh*t! It looked like there was a puddle of oil on the intake valve ... so i stuck a long, skinny screwdriver down in there nicely, and when i pulled it back out, there was b/w 1/8" and 1/4" of oil puddled on the back of the intake valve (around 6/32") ... thats freakin rediculous, that not only is there oil on the vavle, but with the valve closed, its freakin puddled in there.......
so, it looks like i will be going with a set of 5.3 heads, being that i'm on a very tight budget, and they should make more power than my 241 castings anyhow...
but back to good news for me and just1news6, i didn't get the intake off completely, because of something that was hooked to the back of it... i didnt really wanna break anything, and i couldnt tell what was hooked onto, or into it in the very back (anybody know?)... but anyhow, i got it lifted up and peeked down into the head on the first cylinder on both sides of the motor.... Well, what to say except, holy sh*t! It looked like there was a puddle of oil on the intake valve ... so i stuck a long, skinny screwdriver down in there nicely, and when i pulled it back out, there was b/w 1/8" and 1/4" of oil puddled on the back of the intake valve (around 6/32") ... thats freakin rediculous, that not only is there oil on the vavle, but with the valve closed, its freakin puddled in there.......
so, it looks like i will be going with a set of 5.3 heads, being that i'm on a very tight budget, and they should make more power than my 241 castings anyhow...
Originally Posted by just1news6
Glorious!!!! thanks sonofabish well now i know what i need to do ls6 heads!!!! so undoubtedly Would you say that this was the valve guides???
good luck man! i hope you can fix ur problem!!