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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 10:48 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
3. Looks like you might have scratched it with the bottom of a bolt or something. I dont think the valves or anything floating around the head would make that kind of mark. Plus it looks like the carbon was scraped off. how deep is it? Probably no cause for alarm.
When looking at it up close (and I can put a higher resolution picture up here), it doesn't look like a scratch. It looks like two separate pieces of metal stuck in the top of the piston.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
When looking at it up close (and I can put a higher resolution picture up here), it doesn't look like a scratch. It looks like two separate pieces of metal stuck in the top of the piston.
really? maybe something got wedged in the squish space and fused to the piston top? maybe something sucked into the intake? try and scrape or sand it off carefully and inspect for piston damage.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 12:21 AM
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Okay, the head is back on, the intake manifold is back on, the new underdrive pulley is reinstalled, etc. Hopefully these will be the last questions before I hear that awesome lope.

1) There is a little "T" at the back of the intake manifold where two small vacuum hoses go. I have one of these hooked up but the other is not. Where should each of these go to? Describe where it is, if you can, because I may not know.

2) What size belts do I need for an SLP underdrive pulley. I read either a 51" or 52" for the serpentine, but I haven't been able to find what length I need for the AC compressor belt.

3) If the car is destroyed when I turn the key over, is it okay to cry? Would it make me less of a man?



Thanks to all who have helped me so far, especially GuitsBoy. Thanks, also, in advance for the answers to these, the last (hopefully) of my cam swap questions!
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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I believe one side goes to the heatin/AC controls, and the other side goes to some sort of emissions solenoid on the drivers side. Might be the AIR system.

Not sure about the belt size, as im still running a stock pulley.

Make sure you crank it over by hand with a wrench a couple times first. If it explodes when you start it, then you probably did something wrong. If you cry, you will be mocked and ridiculed until my throat is sore.

j/k man, im sure youll do fine.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
Okay, the head is back on, the intake manifold is back on, the new underdrive pulley is reinstalled, etc. Hopefully these will be the last questions before I hear that awesome lope.

1) There is a little "T" at the back of the intake manifold where two small vacuum hoses go. I have one of these hooked up but the other is not. Where should each of these go to? Describe where it is, if you can, because I may not know.

2) What size belts do I need for an SLP underdrive pulley. I read either a 51" or 52" for the serpentine, but I haven't been able to find what length I need for the AC compressor belt.

3) If the car is destroyed when I turn the key over, is it okay to cry? Would it make me less of a man?



Thanks to all who have helped me so far, especially GuitsBoy. Thanks, also, in advance for the answers to these, the last (hopefully) of my cam swap questions!
You mean the tiny plastic tube or the rubber hoses? If I'm not mistaken, the little plastic tube connects to the back of the intake manifold (LS6).

It's ok to cry if it self destructs, but we will make fun of you .

For the SLP 25% under-drive you need Dayco #5060780 serpentine. You might also need the AC belt, or even if you don't you may as well replace it since you are down there. I can get you the AC belt # later, it just might be the same as stock but I'm not sure.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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It worked!

After dealing with a coolant leak due to an under-tightened, cross-threaded bolt, we were able to fill 'er up and fire it up. I was amazed at how smoothly it ran at first. Now it's stalling a bit at lights. It's getting a tad better, though, so I think it'll be good in a hundred miles or so.

It turns out that the vacuum hose went the the solenoid on the driver's side. The belt lengths were 76" for the serpentine, I think, and 38.5" for the A/C compressor belt.

Thanks again to everyone that helped out.



P.S. - I managed to pop a leak on a fitting attaching to the condensor when putting the radiator back in. Now I don't have A/C in my daily or my baby!
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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YEAH BOYYYYYEEEEE!!! Glad to hear you got it up and running. You must feel great! A healthy sense of accomplishment, no? Congrats bro! Its great to see youve taken it to the next level! Youre gonna love it! *******-A!!!
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
YEAH BOYYYYYEEEEE!!! Glad to hear you got it up and running. You must feel great! A healthy sense of accomplishment, no? Congrats bro! Its great to see youve taken it to the next level! Youre gonna love it! *******-A!!!
Thanks, dude!

I revved the car up this morning, and it didn't feel too different from before. It's running INSANELY rich, though, so I'm figuring that a tune will end up grabbing more power at this point than the cam has by itself.

She sure isn't too happy about her idle, though. ROFL. I'm having to two-foot it when I'm approaching lights to keep it from stalling. It makes driving more interesting!
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
Thanks, dude!

I revved the car up this morning, and it didn't feel too different from before. It's running INSANELY rich, though, so I'm figuring that a tune will end up grabbing more power at this point than the cam has by itself.

She sure isn't too happy about her idle, though. ROFL. I'm having to two-foot it when I'm approaching lights to keep it from stalling. It makes driving more interesting!
Yes, all this can be aleviated with a tune. Are you doing it yourself or are you taking it somewhere. I cant remember what you said. Anyway you could turn the throttle idle stop screw a couple of turns to add some air at idle and help when coming to a stop, just count the turns so you can set it back when you bring it in to be tuned. Sadly theres not much you can do about the richness without a tune. Also, adding some timing will really help out the low end stalling.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Yes, all this can be aleviated with a tune. Are you doing it yourself or are you taking it somewhere. I cant remember what you said. Anyway you could turn the throttle idle stop screw a couple of turns to add some air at idle and help when coming to a stop, just count the turns so you can set it back when you bring it in to be tuned. Sadly theres not much you can do about the richness without a tune. Also, adding some timing will really help out the low end stalling.
I'm going to drive down to Houston next weekend and get it tuned at HPE, I think. It's in dire need.

There's no chance that I'm actually hurting the engine by driving it so rich right now, is there?
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:34 AM
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No, you should be reasonably safe. Just dont romp too hard. For as rich as it will be at low rpm, its may be lean as hell up top.
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