408 iron block build
408 iron block build Please move this if it is in the wrong section...
I have been planning on buying the heads, cam, intake for a (planned) 408 build and running them on my 346 until I have the money/time to build the motor (most likely next summer). However, I figured the downtime/cost of tuning on the 346 car would not be worth it in the end. I would like to get my hands on a 6.0l block and beginning the 408 build.
A few quick questions.
Would I be fine getting a used 6.0L iron block or should I get a new one?
Would the cost of having the old block machined be less than the cost of a new block ($699 from TSP)?
Who has the best prices on the stroker kit for the 6.0l to bring it to 408?
Sorry for the noob questions. I am just trying to get some costs together before I jump into it. I know it will be costly but this will be a year or so in the making. If there are any links to a site with this build on it send me some links. Thanks for the help fellas
I have been planning on buying the heads, cam, intake for a (planned) 408 build and running them on my 346 until I have the money/time to build the motor (most likely next summer). However, I figured the downtime/cost of tuning on the 346 car would not be worth it in the end. I would like to get my hands on a 6.0l block and beginning the 408 build.
A few quick questions.
Would I be fine getting a used 6.0L iron block or should I get a new one?
Would the cost of having the old block machined be less than the cost of a new block ($699 from TSP)?
Who has the best prices on the stroker kit for the 6.0l to bring it to 408?
Sorry for the noob questions. I am just trying to get some costs together before I jump into it. I know it will be costly but this will be a year or so in the making. If there are any links to a site with this build on it send me some links. Thanks for the help fellas
Its fine to use used blocks as long as they are in good condition.
Most new blocks end up getting line honed, bored & honed, and decked just like the used ones, so up to you.
You are going to have to shop around for prices, sometimes there is sales at different places at different times etc., etc.... Look at the supporting vendors.
Good luck
Most new blocks end up getting line honed, bored & honed, and decked just like the used ones, so up to you.
You are going to have to shop around for prices, sometimes there is sales at different places at different times etc., etc.... Look at the supporting vendors.
Good luck
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Here's the MTI page with it:
http://www.motorsporttech.com/fbody_engine02.asp
Horsepower Engineering:
https://www.horsepowerengineering.co...products_id=42
Little google work. There are many more.
http://www.motorsporttech.com/fbody_engine02.asp
408 cid
GM 6.0L Iron Block
Lunati 4.00" crank - 4340 forged steel
Lunati billet rods 6.125"
Wiseco flat top pistons 4.030" bore size
Price: $6295.00
GM 6.0L Iron Block
Lunati 4.00" crank - 4340 forged steel
Lunati billet rods 6.125"
Wiseco flat top pistons 4.030" bore size
Price: $6295.00
Horsepower Engineering:
https://www.horsepowerengineering.co...products_id=42
HPE 408 Shortblock,
Eagle forged 4.000 stroke crankshaft
4340 forged 6.125 H Beam Rods
Wiseco pistons.
Fully balanced and blueprinted with a 1 year 12k mile NO POWER ADDER warranty. Motor must be installed by a certified technician for warranty to be valid. NO CORE
Price: $3999
Eagle forged 4.000 stroke crankshaft
4340 forged 6.125 H Beam Rods
Wiseco pistons.
Fully balanced and blueprinted with a 1 year 12k mile NO POWER ADDER warranty. Motor must be installed by a certified technician for warranty to be valid. NO CORE
Price: $3999
That HPE shortblock looks to be a good deal. Would it be worth it to build the shortblock myself with a 6.0l block and a stroker kit, or is it better to go with the shortblock and just go from there?
Ballistic Jello thanks for the info!
Ballistic Jello thanks for the info!
I would go with FFHP or HPE. I personally went with HPE because they do everything in house, they don't outsource any of the work. I like for one shop to be accountable for something rather than multiple ones that can turn into "they did it" wars if the engine takes a crap.