Doing the timing chain, need advice
Doing the timing chain, need advice I read up on here of all the threads I could find on the timing chain job. So I bought the factory service manual, LS2 chain, SDPC ported oil pump, and the gaskets and seals for front cover, water pump, and crank.
I'm off for a long weekend, so I started yesterday to pull of the harmonic damper but I think there's a different tool I need. I used a cheapo pep-boys gear puller that got it all but about 1/2"-3/4" from coming off. One thread mentioned using AutoZone's tool loaner for the Chrysler damper puller, but that also was not long enough to get the last of it off. Prying it doesn't budge it. What tool should I be using?
Once off, I'd like to chase the threads, but I don't know where to go to get a chaser this big.
Also, I'm concerned how I'm going to get this back on once I'm done the rest of the job. I suppose I could bake it and hope it slides on with little effort. But, if it doesn't I'm going to need the threaded rod technique someone here mentions, to simulate the dealer-only tool shown in the FSM. Only, where do I get this threaded rod? I suppose once I have it, I put on a nut and a large enough socket and use it to press it on? Someone else mentioned a longer harmonic balancer bolt that can be used to press it on. What's the part number?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
I'm off for a long weekend, so I started yesterday to pull of the harmonic damper but I think there's a different tool I need. I used a cheapo pep-boys gear puller that got it all but about 1/2"-3/4" from coming off. One thread mentioned using AutoZone's tool loaner for the Chrysler damper puller, but that also was not long enough to get the last of it off. Prying it doesn't budge it. What tool should I be using?
Once off, I'd like to chase the threads, but I don't know where to go to get a chaser this big.
Also, I'm concerned how I'm going to get this back on once I'm done the rest of the job. I suppose I could bake it and hope it slides on with little effort. But, if it doesn't I'm going to need the threaded rod technique someone here mentions, to simulate the dealer-only tool shown in the FSM. Only, where do I get this threaded rod? I suppose once I have it, I put on a nut and a large enough socket and use it to press it on? Someone else mentioned a longer harmonic balancer bolt that can be used to press it on. What's the part number?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Try finding a longer bolt for the crank, then use the pulley on it. Thats what I did and it worked great.
As far as getting it back on, you will use the old crank bolt to slide it back on, then put your new crank bolt in and torwue it down.
If you look on www.ls1howto.com look for the write up on cam swap. It goes through the procedure for removing the crank pulley and reinstalling it.
As far as getting it back on, you will use the old crank bolt to slide it back on, then put your new crank bolt in and torwue it down.
If you look on www.ls1howto.com look for the write up on cam swap. It goes through the procedure for removing the crank pulley and reinstalling it.
I recommend a longer bolt to push on while pulling the pulley off and for getting it started. Take your stocker to the hardware store and get one that's about 1/4-3/8" longer and some washers to go with.
You can buy another one, grind the threads down on both sides, clean them up so there's no burrs, then use it as a thread chaser. I used it on my head bolts and it worked great.
You can buy another one, grind the threads down on both sides, clean them up so there's no burrs, then use it as a thread chaser. I used it on my head bolts and it worked great.
Thanks for the tips. I just spent most of the day today trying to track down a threaded rod or larger bolt without success. To my surprise, even Grainger doesn't carry this size. M16x2 is just plain big and places don't carry that size, if they carry metric at all.
I've already read the cam swap howto.
I've got the FSM to give me the procedures, but unfotunately I haven't been able to find any specifics on where people are getting their tools. I think all I need is either that threaded rod or longer bolt.
I admit, I'm a little leary on the longer bolt method for pressing the balancer back on. I read a few threads here about guys messing up the crank threads doing this. The threaded rod method doesn't rely on turning the tool into the crank threads once in place, eliminating the risk of eating threads. I guess I'll take whatever I can find.
I've already read the cam swap howto.
I've got the FSM to give me the procedures, but unfotunately I haven't been able to find any specifics on where people are getting their tools. I think all I need is either that threaded rod or longer bolt.
I admit, I'm a little leary on the longer bolt method for pressing the balancer back on. I read a few threads here about guys messing up the crank threads doing this. The threaded rod method doesn't rely on turning the tool into the crank threads once in place, eliminating the risk of eating threads. I guess I'll take whatever I can find.
My locally owned hardware store had the longer bolt that I needed. They even had 2 sizes longer! If you stick the pulley in the oven, it will also help with re-installing it.
I managed to finish the job late last night. Everything went in ok.
One question. I paid extra attention to the harmonic balancer bolt install. I custom ordered a threaded rod from MSC and used it, a nut, and several large washers to slowly press it back on. I measured .126" offset, which is right the middle of spec. I then took TheBlurLS1's advice to get a spare new bolt, cut ridges, and use it to chase the threads with motor oil. Once then came clean, I took the other new bolt, applied a little motor oil for smooth install.
I intend to go by the book, so I torqued the bolt to 37 ftlbs, then put in my torque angle meter and went for 120 degrees. However, I have an automatic, so it got a little tricky. Screwdriver-in-flywheel didn't work so well, so I measured the 120 degree angle with a pencil mark on the balancer and used my impact wrench to turn it to that mark. I think I got to about 100 degrees before I got worried and stopped. To get it that close, I had to turn the compressor regulator up to 120psi, remove the universal socket extension, and hammer on the bolt directly with the impact wrench for about 20 seconds straight.
Think I'm ok leaving it as is? The car drives ok last night and today, so there's no indication of a problem so far.
One question. I paid extra attention to the harmonic balancer bolt install. I custom ordered a threaded rod from MSC and used it, a nut, and several large washers to slowly press it back on. I measured .126" offset, which is right the middle of spec. I then took TheBlurLS1's advice to get a spare new bolt, cut ridges, and use it to chase the threads with motor oil. Once then came clean, I took the other new bolt, applied a little motor oil for smooth install.
I intend to go by the book, so I torqued the bolt to 37 ftlbs, then put in my torque angle meter and went for 120 degrees. However, I have an automatic, so it got a little tricky. Screwdriver-in-flywheel didn't work so well, so I measured the 120 degree angle with a pencil mark on the balancer and used my impact wrench to turn it to that mark. I think I got to about 100 degrees before I got worried and stopped. To get it that close, I had to turn the compressor regulator up to 120psi, remove the universal socket extension, and hammer on the bolt directly with the impact wrench for about 20 seconds straight.
Think I'm ok leaving it as is? The car drives ok last night and today, so there's no indication of a problem so far.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Issaquah, Wa.
Originally Posted by shouldaboughttheZ
Try finding a longer bolt for the crank, then use the pulley on it. Thats what I did and it worked great.
As far as getting it back on, you will use the old crank bolt to slide it back on, then put your new crank bolt in and torwue it down.
If you look on www.ls1howto.com look for the write up on cam swap. It goes through the procedure for removing the crank pulley and reinstalling it.
As far as getting it back on, you will use the old crank bolt to slide it back on, then put your new crank bolt in and torwue it down.
If you look on www.ls1howto.com look for the write up on cam swap. It goes through the procedure for removing the crank pulley and reinstalling it.
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i think you'll be o.k. ,with an impact with air pressure at 120 psi i doubt the bolt will work loose no mater if it went 120 * or not,some of those specs is bullshit anyways. i hate these torque to spec bolts !