ANY writeups for a DIY pushrod replacement
#1
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Heard the job is not bad at all. Little brother might have a few bent pushrods so we are going to replace them. Looking for torque specs and steps in replacing. Wondering if after the valvecovers are off, just loosen the rockers and replace one at a time or do the rockers come off? Thanks for any help.
Car is a 2000 Camero with a LS1
Car is a 2000 Camero with a LS1
#3
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Per GM SI website:
1) Install the rocker arms and bolts. Meaning put in the rocker arm bolts till hand tight.
2) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift , and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. Another way to say it is hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until both valves are closed. You are on the compression cycle for that cylinder. (At this position the valve springs are at their least amount of tension making the job a little easier to do.) The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinder 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank. Off lobe lift means rotate the crank till both valvesprings come UP on cylinder 1, meaning the valves are closed. If you rotate too far, one valvespring will start to go down ( valve opening) ; simply rotate again till you see them both come up. Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating.
3) With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees
5) Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
1) Install the rocker arms and bolts. Meaning put in the rocker arm bolts till hand tight.
2) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift , and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. Another way to say it is hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until both valves are closed. You are on the compression cycle for that cylinder. (At this position the valve springs are at their least amount of tension making the job a little easier to do.) The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinder 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank. Off lobe lift means rotate the crank till both valvesprings come UP on cylinder 1, meaning the valves are closed. If you rotate too far, one valvespring will start to go down ( valve opening) ; simply rotate again till you see them both come up. Use a 24mm socket on the crank with a 3" extension and a breaker bar for rotating.
3) With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees
5) Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
• Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
#6
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Thanks guys those are awesome writeups. Well Monday we did the pass side to find 2 bent rods. Jumped on the drivers side last night and my brother told me that one of the rods snapped in half and is in the "valley" Now I know my bro has no idea what he is talking about, so I assume thats what the mechanic told him. How the hell could it fall in. Collapsed lifter????
#7
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
heres a tip ive found out the hard way.
get a SIX POINT 8mm 3/8" drive socket.
then, go buy a second one.
eventually, the first one will break. dont use a 12 point to break loose the rocker bolts.
get a SIX POINT 8mm 3/8" drive socket.
then, go buy a second one.
eventually, the first one will break. dont use a 12 point to break loose the rocker bolts.
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#8
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Originally Posted by viewsonic
you need to buy better sockets ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
they dont always break right away.. you may have to do a few motors, or it may go after the first bank.. but when they do, you'll be wishing you bought a spare.
#9
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
im not a shop, so unless im hunting down the snap-on truck, im stuck with craftsman or kolbalt.
they dont always break right away.. you may have to do a few motors, or it may go after the first bank.. but when they do, you'll be wishing you bought a spare.
they dont always break right away.. you may have to do a few motors, or it may go after the first bank.. but when they do, you'll be wishing you bought a spare.
But I always say, buy 1 good tool instead os 2 shitty ones.
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I think craftsman is decent stuff... and if it breaks you should be able to get your money back.
#10
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Originally Posted by teddyca
Thanks guys those are awesome writeups. Well Monday we did the pass side to find 2 bent rods. Jumped on the drivers side last night and my brother told me that one of the rods snapped in half and is in the "valley" Now I know my bro has no idea what he is talking about, so I assume thats what the mechanic told him. How the hell could it fall in. Collapsed lifter????