Nitrous backfire blown motor? maybe
Nitrous backfire blown motor? maybe 7/29/06 New 415 Forged motor buildup is here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/548874-415-ls1-iron-block-build-up-help.html
I pressed on the gas and WOT when nitrous was on and the car was off. I then attempted to start the car, gas puddled in intake and ignitited.
UPDATE
I think the cause of the backfire was one or both solenoids were stuck on.
The car revving was just the nitrous, and gas flowing into the intake.
Turned car off...still flowing, car turned back on it ignited
Found a blown out manifold in front and rear,blown out air inlet duct (stock accordian style) blown out radiator, holes were created from heat, not the shards.
I pulled the manifold and replaced with a new stock LS6, replaced air inlet, and replaced the radiator,also refilled with coolant.
Go to crank it over and:
It starts, tried to let idle, sounded vey loud, like exhaust off or something
Notice no oil pressure, zero
Turned off car........
Tried one more time and same thing.
Cause of problem now?
oil pump?
timing chain?
blown piston?
blown out galley plug?
All of them ?
Anything else?
Bearing?
I would like advice as to what I should do next....
What would you do next?
the way it it sits now
Last edited by Jed Z06; Jul 29, 2006 at 02:39 PM.
Z06 When the rear of the intake blew apart did it take out the oil pressure sendind unit or wire on the back of the motor? A piece of the plastic could have ended up in a combustion chamber, I would do a compression test after you check the oil pressure switch. Put a manual gauge on it to see if you have oil pressure. Sounds to me like an explosion that violent could have done other damage. Good luck.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 92
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From: killafornia
well if i were you i would do a compression test 1st. then do an oil pressure test,hopefully your guage is just messed up. but unlikely. why would it be louder now then before.is the motor louder or the exhaust. if the motor sounds chattery and hella loud it might be spun bearings from the jolt of the backfire. mabey oil pump o ring caught some massive pressure and blew out. im no proffessional ls1 builder but this is what id check 1st. in your own order but remember you dont want to fire a motor with no oil psi or you will f up your crank journals. your mods seem good anyway so id say buy a crate bottom end forged from tsp or something. about the same for a good rebuld or cheaper. good luck bro and have massive patience
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: New Lenox, Il.
Go to parts store and buy compression test kit. It will come with hoses that thread into spark plug holes, and a gauge. Disable the ignition, (so car does not start) thread hose into spark plug hole and attach gauge to other end of hose. Now crank engine over for four or five pulses. Repeat on all cylinders, they should be pretty close (no more than 25psi). If something is broke, it will most likley say 0 or very little psi on the gauge. Good luck.
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one thing i would also check AFTER the before mentioned is the mass air sensor, a nitrous backfire through the intake can and will destroy a mass air sensor. I had a nitrous backfire and my car would crank and die, unplugged the mass air sensor and everything acted different. Also the mass air sensor does not have to be physically altered to be destroyed, the resistor elements can be burnt up from the backfire. This might explain it trying to run funny, but you definately need to resolve the oil pressure problem first and foremost.
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Verdad Gallardo I did a compression test today, on the front four pistons, and they all read 120 to 150, my battery was dying so didnt get to the back four yet.
From what I have read, so far that compression is ok. ???
From what I have read, so far that compression is ok. ???
Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Did you ever check the oil pressure sending unit? With the back of the intake blown apart like that, I can't believe the sending unit/wiring survived.
When the manifold was off, I cleaned, and looked into the ports, would I been able to see a valve hanging?
I believe that since The fuel noid was stuck on, and I turned the car off, then turned it back on quickly, maybe the gas pudled mostly in the front?
This willl be resolved, even if it comes via a crate.
I need to know what cylinders are what number?
and
Location and part# for: oil sending unit
part # for: MAF sensor
Last edited by Jed Z06; Jul 16, 2006 at 01:04 AM.
standing in front of the car :
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Oil pressure sending unit is a small black cylinder that screws into the top of the block behind the intake manifold, sort of near the brake booster.
You can call SDPC for part numbers ------->
Rob (Bad30th)
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Oil pressure sending unit is a small black cylinder that screws into the top of the block behind the intake manifold, sort of near the brake booster.
You can call SDPC for part numbers ------->
Rob (Bad30th)
Originally Posted by Boostaholic
take the head off, its probably just a head gasket because it blew through to your coolant system which is why your radiator is cracked
SO far, found intake fragments holding the intake valve open on #7 and holding the exhaust valve open on #6. Cleared them both, so ar so good.
AND oh yes, the oil sensor unit was blown away, the oil pump works fine.
AND oh yes, the oil sensor unit was blown away, the oil pump works fine.
Ok guys.......
Here are some new pics.
Looks like #8 piston lost a nice piece to it....................
Pulling the motor, going to a local machine shop.......
I got upset for about 15 minutes after I saw this, but then I got REALLY excited.........
Shopping for forged stroker kits
Here are some new pics.
Looks like #8 piston lost a nice piece to it....................
Pulling the motor, going to a local machine shop.......
I got upset for about 15 minutes after I saw this, but then I got REALLY excited.........
Shopping for forged stroker kits
