ARP head bolts or head studs???
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From: boca Raton, Florida
ARP head bolts or head studs??? can i only get the studs if im going to install the heads with the engine out of the car?? if this is true i have to get the bolts right?
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From: Detroit, MI - Camp Pendleton, CA
You can use both. The studs should be the same length as the bolts. An out of car build people put the studs in first. Inside an F body, I would imagine its impossible so you put the head on then screw the stud in afterwards then put the nut on. Does anyone know if there is a big difference in the bolts and studs? The studs are like 80 bucks more I believe.
-Alex
-Alex
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
You can use both. The studs should be the same length as the bolts. An out of car build people put the studs in first. Inside an F body, I would imagine its impossible so you put the head on then screw the stud in afterwards then put the nut on. Does anyone know if there is a big difference in the bolts and studs? The studs are like 80 bucks more I believe.
-Alex
-Alex
If you are going to do that then why not just get bolts?
Studs are supposed to be installed once in the block and then left along... This prevents the block "from getting messed up" from not having to constanly bolt and on bolt stuff...
If you were going to undo the studs everytime you did a head swap then the studs have no advantage over bolts...
Head studs are really best if you plan to take your heads off a few times anyway....
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
FI guys should probably run studs...I am sure they see their fair share of blown head gaskets from time to time.
I heard they do not "hold" any better than arp bolts?
Makes sense since they are virtually the same thing when all bolted up....
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Originally Posted by viewsonic
I heard they do not "hold" any better than arp bolts?
Makes sense since they are virtually the same thing when all bolted up....
Makes sense since they are virtually the same thing when all bolted up....
Originally Posted by Joel_SS
Great 1000 miles and no measuredable oil burnage! But my converts lock up clutch just took a ****.
I don't see FI in your sig, so I'd recommend ARP bolts.
You'll thank yourself during the install for buying the ARP bolts over the GM stockers. TRUST ME! The procedure for tightening the GM bolts is a real pain in the ***. I also found that the ARP's have a slightly smaller head than the stockers which gives you that tiney extra bit of clearance to get them in the back few boltholes with ease. I think it was the last head bolt on the bottom, on the passanger side that was the hardest to get out. The ARP bolt slid right in though.
You'll thank yourself during the install for buying the ARP bolts over the GM stockers. TRUST ME! The procedure for tightening the GM bolts is a real pain in the ***. I also found that the ARP's have a slightly smaller head than the stockers which gives you that tiney extra bit of clearance to get them in the back few boltholes with ease. I think it was the last head bolt on the bottom, on the passanger side that was the hardest to get out. The ARP bolt slid right in though.
Originally Posted by orangeapeel
*ringing* Hello? Is this the TCI hotline?
More like, take this POS converter.. and then I am gonna call PI and order what I should have in the first place..
Originally Posted by Joel_SS
If you go with the ARP bolts make sure you get some of the assembly lube with it! That will make it easy to torque down and you reading will be alot more accurate!
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
But if you are taking your heads off every 5 days because of a blown head gasket it does make sense. I wasnt talking about just for having a 220,000 PSI rating. Just for ease of changing.
ahhh, I misunderstood.
Yup, not having to clean bolt holes is a big plus.
P.S. You can use motor oil on the bolts instead of ARP lube
Originally Posted by viewsonic
P.S. You can use motor oil on the bolts instead of ARP lube