View Poll Results: What mod would you choose for a bolt-on, F11, m6, street-only car?
4.10 gears in a 10 bolt
8
24.24%
Heads
25
75.76%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll
Heads or 4.10 gears in a 10 bolt for street use only?
07-19-2006, 11:55 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
LOSERS!! 
I could just barely afford to buy a used stock rear end cover to fix my leaky one
I could just barely afford to buy a used stock rear end cover to fix my leaky one
07-19-2006, 12:53 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
See, the thing is that not everybody can afford to throw ~$2,500 down at any given time to buy a 12 bolt because they broke the 10 bolt.
Yea i cant afford one either, ive just got a 10bolt with a girdle, ive already broke one 10 bolt and when i get my car back its gonna have about 100 more rwhp so im hoping this one will last at least a year
07-19-2006, 01:03 PM
#23
I'm into the forced upgrade path as well. Do the heads now, then when the 10-bolt breaks, be forced into upgrading it. You'll find a way. Plastic works wonders 
I'm debating on a 12-bolt or 9" myself right now. Hopefully I'll have everything else bought and paid off (UMI TA, Wolf rollbar, line lock, wheels/tires, etc.) before my 10-bolt breaks so I can throw a new rear in before my car becomes immobile.
I bent some valves...drove like that for a month and a half waiting to buy heads (deciding if I could afford ported ones). Then all of a sudden my motor spun a main bearing before I fixed the heads, so then I ended up having to buy a shortblock and heads anyways. Went the cheap route on the block and I still have almost $6k into my motor setup (including headers, pulley, etc.), and the bottom end is still just a stock one (albeit it quite a few less thousand miles).
My most recent form of this was when my clutch slave cylinder went out shortly after I got the motor and new clutch in (didn't replace the cylinder because it only had 8k miles on it from the previuos owner putting a stock clutch in at a shop). Well, I didn't feel like pulling the trans down and buying a slave cylinder and putting it back up there. Plus my clutch was soaked in brake fluid. So now, $1750 later, I have a 700hp-capable trans (t56rebuilds.com), a brand new Spec 3 clutch, and a new slave cylinder. Almost sprung for the McLeod adj. MC but didn't
And then of course because my car was down for a few weeks, it sounded like a good time to upgrade the suspension, so I was looking on eBay at the KYB AGX kits and the like, and then I call up Strano and they tell me Koni SA's, so $845 and 3 days later, and I installed my Koni SAs along with my brand new brake calipers and rotors.
Needless to say...I've spent quite a bit of money in the last few weeks due to somewhat forced upgrades...so....follow that path
I'm debating on a 12-bolt or 9" myself right now. Hopefully I'll have everything else bought and paid off (UMI TA, Wolf rollbar, line lock, wheels/tires, etc.) before my 10-bolt breaks so I can throw a new rear in before my car becomes immobile.I bent some valves...drove like that for a month and a half waiting to buy heads (deciding if I could afford ported ones). Then all of a sudden my motor spun a main bearing before I fixed the heads, so then I ended up having to buy a shortblock and heads anyways. Went the cheap route on the block and I still have almost $6k into my motor setup (including headers, pulley, etc.), and the bottom end is still just a stock one (albeit it quite a few less thousand miles).
My most recent form of this was when my clutch slave cylinder went out shortly after I got the motor and new clutch in (didn't replace the cylinder because it only had 8k miles on it from the previuos owner putting a stock clutch in at a shop). Well, I didn't feel like pulling the trans down and buying a slave cylinder and putting it back up there. Plus my clutch was soaked in brake fluid. So now, $1750 later, I have a 700hp-capable trans (t56rebuilds.com), a brand new Spec 3 clutch, and a new slave cylinder. Almost sprung for the McLeod adj. MC but didn't
And then of course because my car was down for a few weeks, it sounded like a good time to upgrade the suspension, so I was looking on eBay at the KYB AGX kits and the like, and then I call up Strano and they tell me Koni SA's, so $845 and 3 days later, and I installed my Koni SAs along with my brand new brake calipers and rotors.
Needless to say...I've spent quite a bit of money in the last few weeks due to somewhat forced upgrades...so....follow that path
07-19-2006, 05:55 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
How's your clutch?
Jim
07-19-2006, 09:09 PM
#25
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by ACCELR8
It's the original clutch with 33,000 miles on it. I figure either one of those mods will retire my clutch, but that's a good thing.
Jim
Jim
If you get the heads can you afford a new rear end AND a new clutch?
If not, get the rear end.
07-19-2006, 09:58 PM
#26
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
I'm into the forced upgrade path as well. Do the heads now, then when the 10-bolt breaks, be forced into upgrading it. You'll find a way. Plastic works wonders I'm debating on a 12-bolt or 9" myself right now. Hopefully I'll have everything else bought and paid off (UMI TA, Wolf rollbar, line lock, wheels/tires, etc.) before my 10-bolt breaks so I can throw a new rear in before my car becomes immobile.
I bent some valves...drove like that for a month and a half waiting to buy heads (deciding if I could afford ported ones). Then all of a sudden my motor spun a main bearing before I fixed the heads, so then I ended up having to buy a shortblock and heads anyways. Went the cheap route on the block and I still have almost $6k into my motor setup (including headers, pulley, etc.), and the bottom end is still just a stock one (albeit it quite a few less thousand miles).
My most recent form of this was when my clutch slave cylinder went out shortly after I got the motor and new clutch in (didn't replace the cylinder because it only had 8k miles on it from the previuos owner putting a stock clutch in at a shop). Well, I didn't feel like pulling the trans down and buying a slave cylinder and putting it back up there. Plus my clutch was soaked in brake fluid. So now, $1750 later, I have a 700hp-capable trans (t56rebuilds.com), a brand new Spec 3 clutch, and a new slave cylinder. Almost sprung for the McLeod adj. MC but didn't
And then of course because my car was down for a few weeks, it sounded like a good time to upgrade the suspension, so I was looking on eBay at the KYB AGX kits and the like, and then I call up Strano and they tell me Koni SA's, so $845 and 3 days later, and I installed my Koni SAs along with my brand new brake calipers and rotors.
Needless to say...I've spent quite a bit of money in the last few weeks due to somewhat forced upgrades...so....follow that path
I'm debating on a 12-bolt or 9" myself right now. Hopefully I'll have everything else bought and paid off (UMI TA, Wolf rollbar, line lock, wheels/tires, etc.) before my 10-bolt breaks so I can throw a new rear in before my car becomes immobile.I bent some valves...drove like that for a month and a half waiting to buy heads (deciding if I could afford ported ones). Then all of a sudden my motor spun a main bearing before I fixed the heads, so then I ended up having to buy a shortblock and heads anyways. Went the cheap route on the block and I still have almost $6k into my motor setup (including headers, pulley, etc.), and the bottom end is still just a stock one (albeit it quite a few less thousand miles).
My most recent form of this was when my clutch slave cylinder went out shortly after I got the motor and new clutch in (didn't replace the cylinder because it only had 8k miles on it from the previuos owner putting a stock clutch in at a shop). Well, I didn't feel like pulling the trans down and buying a slave cylinder and putting it back up there. Plus my clutch was soaked in brake fluid. So now, $1750 later, I have a 700hp-capable trans (t56rebuilds.com), a brand new Spec 3 clutch, and a new slave cylinder. Almost sprung for the McLeod adj. MC but didn't
And then of course because my car was down for a few weeks, it sounded like a good time to upgrade the suspension, so I was looking on eBay at the KYB AGX kits and the like, and then I call up Strano and they tell me Koni SA's, so $845 and 3 days later, and I installed my Koni SAs along with my brand new brake calipers and rotors.
Needless to say...I've spent quite a bit of money in the last few weeks due to somewhat forced upgrades...so....follow that path
07-19-2006, 10:14 PM
#27
I am in the same boat you are. I think I am just going to go with the heads and cam now and through a set of 3.73 I have laying around the garage in the rear. I only go to the track about 2 times a year, and if the rear breaks then I will go with the 9" with 4.30's.
07-20-2006, 04:34 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
If you get the heads can you afford a new rear end AND a new clutch?
07-20-2006, 07:21 PM
#31
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It seems like when ever you mess with the rear end it ends up making noises. You say you are planning on running it on the street. That mean you won't be doing quite as much damage to the rear end.
Doing gears typacally will yeild you about 0.1 to 0.2 seconds improvement in the quarter mile with no hp increase. The heads will get you about 0.3 seconds improvement with about 25 to 30 more hp.
Either way, good luck.
Al
Doing gears typacally will yeild you about 0.1 to 0.2 seconds improvement in the quarter mile with no hp increase. The heads will get you about 0.3 seconds improvement with about 25 to 30 more hp.
Either way, good luck.
Al
