orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Since this is borderline Internal engine I will move it over there. blkZ28spt has already pointed you the way to go as far as headers, now we will get the take from the cam guys on the other section.

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

Any dyno or track numbers yet?

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

Figure 500 for the tune, and 500 for misc, 400 for heads = greater hp than the headers/y-pipe alone, and my car will sound and act stock.

And I want stainless, because it looks better and if I want to do it, I will do it right. Alot of local guys tell me to steer clear from pacesetter, and save up cash for something better.

blkZ28spt

There is nothing wrong with pacesetters, no matter what the local guys say. If you havn't noticed already, LS1tech regulars usually have nothing but good words for them. Great bang for the buck. If you want stainless for it's own sake, that is your decision....I just don't want you to write pacesetters off because you think they will not fit well or because some local guys poo-poo them.


What you just listed is $1,100.....does that include the cam? You previously made a list totally only $1k.

It is going to get expensive in a hurry unless you install the heads and cam yourself. That is completely doable, but you must have a decent selection of tools, time, patience, simple mechacnical inclinaiton, good instructions and (at least a times) a second pair of hands.

My old cam swap post/thread can be found through the link in my sig.



Headers are much simpler and quicker to install yourself. Getting headers before a cam not only helps the engine breathe but if you are doing the installs yourself it is nice step by step to do cat-back lid, then headers, then cam and finally heads.



If you really want a cam before headers, I stick with recommending the CheaTR.

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

Yes the cam would be included in the 500misc, that setup is with the z06 cam setup.

Pretty much the dilema is I am on limited funds, and I figure my cash is better spent elsewhere than in headers and a catted y. I just figured my better bang per buck would be getting a cam, port my tb, and tune it and be around 360-370whp.

The install I am not worried about. I have afew mechanic friends that will help me out for beer and a pizza.

What is your opinion on these XS stainless ebay headers? Too early to tell?

blkZ28spt

I may be mistaken as I am not too familier with the cam, someone else can chime in.......but I do not think you will get 360-370 rwhp with the CheaTR cam and stock manifolds/Y-pipe/cats, cat-back, lid and CAI.

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

Perhaps, i thought I read that in this thread but it said full bolt ons. But he did say that with the cheater heads, unaware of the cost at this point, 400whp is possible on stock manifolds.

I thought it would be easier to choose a path for this car than my srt-4. But everything really likes the ls1,

In your experience, what would you think of this setup.

243 Castings - $385(I can get the PnP'ed for cheap)
CheatR Cam package - $799
- Crane Cams 144832-16 Valve Springs
- Crane Cams 144661 Titanium Retainers
- Crane Cams 144460-16 Hardened Seats
- 11-VS-UV5001-EO Valve Stem Seals
- Thunder Racing Stock Length Pushrods (7.400)
LS2 Timing Chain- $35
Comp R lifters - $200
Tune - $500
Gaskets/seals - ????


Around $2000 I figure, Damn that go expensive fast. Though, that would have to put me near the 400whp mark no?


Everytime I think about it though, $400 for Z06 Cam, seals, springs, retainers, and shorter pushrods. 385 for heads, 500 for tune and call it a day.

For estimation purposes say I am at 300-310whp now(Correct me if I am way off)

20whp for 243 castings
10whp for porting my TB(only found 1 thread with dyno)
20whp for z06 cam(though I have read 30-35whp on this site)
and a decent tune 15whp

65whp increase putting me at 365-375whp. That would have to be good for solid 12's and 110mph+ traps. Which is my goal.

blkZ28spt

Yes, you can get ~400 rwhp with stock manifolds and cats running the CheaTR. However, that was with a good set of heads, full bolt ons and a very good tune.

Cars with full exhaust and a little bigger cam, all else equal, might make 440 or more rwhp.

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

What do you think about the ls6 setup?

blkZ28spt

The LS6 cam?

It is good for people who want a small-moderate bump in power, mostly in the mid range and top end, and do not want the added maintenence of spring changes. Feels about the same up to 3k rpm and then begins to pull harder. Since it was designed to be used on a stock corvette it will not be choked as badly by the manifolds as some other cams. The CheaTR will make more power (especially down low), though you must change springs once in awhile.


I can't get into the right frame of mind to recommend you a cam for stock manifolds because my opinion still holds that you should get headers and a Y-pipe first and then you can get just about any cam you want with the only limiting factors being your tolerance to the big ones and what gear ratio you will run.

Something as simple as full bolt-ons plus a TR224 can make 390 or more rwhp and will drive as smooth as anybody on this site could want (IMO) with a good tune.

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

My goal is anywhere in the 12's with 110+mph traps on street tires. And would like to do so in the quietest possilbe way.

blkZ28spt

Surely you have more specifics in mind when listing that goal that you did not type out. What are they?

Nitrous on an otherwise stock car would be the cheapest, easiest and quietest way to do that.

12.9 @ 110 mph isn't much. You should be able to do that without a cam or headers. Grab a cat-back (a quiet one), lid, CAI, ported TB, and an LS6 intake manifold then go practice. The driver mod will be the critical one.

shudog

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, stock best was 13.6 at around 104

After cam I've hit a 13.1 and several 13.2 sec passes and usually trap 107 but have hit 108 before. The car runs great, I'm not the best driver on the M6 and struggle to get a 2.0x 60' time with my street tires.

shudog

iTrader: (3)

The CheaTR cam alone and some sticky tires should get that for you.

blkZ28spt

Sticky tires? That would seem to clash with him wanting to do it with "street tires".

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

i put down 266/248 thru my stock exhaust manifolds and thru a 9".....


cam is a 224/228
dyno was with cutout open.
engine is an 02, so it already had the LS6 intake. and it has the "better" manifolds.
no cats. -- ORY.

with the stock muffler on there, its slower from SOTP feel.... but its also very quiet. with the cutout open, its nasty and LOUD.

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

266whp am I missing something?

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

So by adding a decent catback, and porting my TB, I should hit 110mph traps? That will be a 3mph increase.
I trap 106-107 right now.

I have an 02,
LS6 Intake Manifold - Check
SLP CAI- Check
SLP Lid - Check

blkZ28spt

What weather are you running in? Do you know the DA?

Is there anything left on the table because you are less than perfect at driving/shifting?

Those mods plus a tune may get you there.

To get there for sure grab some headers and get a tune.

Ubergeist

iTrader: (6)

Weather was about 70, and humidity was 83 percent.

I thinkt he D/A ended up being 1300.

My 60' sucked, 2.350 and I got the time in sig. The only other thing is on that run along with others. I tapped the brake on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift.

But I was told that would not make that much of a difference.