I am in the middle of an all out cam, head, exhaust project on my T/A and I am replacing rod bolts too. My question is can you safely install ARP rod bolts with out resizing the rod ends. I know that alot of LS1 owners replace their rod bolts esp. on pre 2000 cars with out even removing the pistons which is what I planned on doing. Has anyone had a bad experience? The only reason I ask is because I was told that resizing the rods is the "correct" way to do it. Thanks.

 

Katech rod bolts are what you want

 

Katechs are the only company that insist that their a direct replacement. In actuality, you can safely use the regular (non pro) ARP bolts without resizing. Many people have sucessfully done the swap without incident. I havnt heard of a single confirmed case where the ARP caused a problem, providing they were installed correctly. If I were to do it, Id go with teh ARP since im always on a budget. If I had the bucks, I might step up to the katechs though as theyre a serious LS1 company and spend a LOT fo time on the boards and have great customer interaction. Im sure katech will chime in on this thread soon

 

Wow, it took me 4 hours to chime in here...I'm slackin. Oh wait, it's Saturday.

If you need some Katech rod bolts they are $153.60/set and you can order directly toll-free 866-Katech1.

 

I knew you'd chime in! A 4 hour turnaround on a saturday aint bad by anyones standards!

Theyre a great comany. If youre not constrained by money, they offer the best products money can buy and back it up with customer service. Ultimately you have to weigh The pros and cons of each option. Youre not likely gonna see and ARP representative actively cruising the boards looking after every thread that remotely pertains to one of their products.

 

Do the ARP rod bolts install with the stock torque specs?

What about the Katech's; stock torque specs as well?

What are the major differences between the ARP'S and Katech's besides name ofcourse

 

they come with torque specs and assembly lube included.at least the katechs do.

 

my arp rod bolts said to torque to 45 lb.ft-back off-torque again-back off-and torque one last time.

 

I did the ARPs rod bolts last month with I had my new heads and cam package installed.

 

Lingenfelter is selling them also.

 

I would have bought Katech's if I knew about them. I just got the ARP'S because that's the bolts that are on a number of other parts on my set-up.

Katech is a proven race builder; but ARP has also proven their strength and durability in many of the fasteners.

My 2000's came with 40 tq. specs; we set them to 42.

 

Theyre selling their own brand of rodbolt? Or they sell the katech bolts?

 

I sent them an email asking the specs. I don't know if they are the same or not.

 

It's the same as the Katech bolt.

 

What is required to install these onto a 2002 Fbody LS1?
They said something about needing to press out the old bolt?

 

theres a small sleeve on 99 and newer ls1 rod bolts. they will need to be removed

 

so you have to remove the whole rod? basically tear down the motor?

 

No. That isn't necessary. Once the oil pan is removed, you replace the rod bolts ONE AT A TIME, so you don't disturb the rod cap. If you have a model year that has the sleeves, you loosen the rod bolt until it is not threaded into the rod, but still threaded into the sleeve that is in the rod cap. If you grab the bolt with a set of pliers or vise grips, and GENTLY wiggle and pull at the same time, the sleeve will come out on the bolt. Make sure you remove all the sleeves. If you unthread the bolt all the way, the sleeve will remain in the rod cap. You don't want to leave that in there, when you install the Katech bolts. The design of the Katech bolt eliminates the need for them.

Page 4 of this thread has pictures of the stock rod bolts and sleeves (ferulles)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=ferulle

 

i see, thanks!

 

You install the ARPs the same way if you were wondering.