LS1 RX7, H/C options.
On the heads side I've been reading up on flow numbers and the such and it seems to me that the Stage 3 Patriots flow even better than the AFR 205's at the .550 lift (Z06 cam is right around that lift I beleive). And at about 700 bucks less it seems logical to pick those up. Again any other ideas?
Now this isn't supposed to be an all out drag car, its a daily driven car but like I said I'd like to get more grunt than your average LS1. Any help would be appreciated. I'm a Ford guy so this LS1 stuff is all new to me.
That in a 2800 lbs car will run low 11's and even high 10's if suspension properly setup.
I would look into a Kaaz rearend to handle that much.
Check out Hindson for RX7 conversions.
That in a 2800 lbs car will run low 11's and even high 10's if suspension properly setup.
I would look into a Kaaz rearend to handle that much.
Check out Hindson for RX7 conversions.
As for the heads, the Patriots might flow better than the AFRs but you can't look at just the flow numbers. Most CNC LS6 heads after CNC'ing have intake runners in the 24x size range. The AFR 205s have a 205 length runner and flow damn close to a head with a much larger intake runner. This makes more port velocity and tremendously improves your torque curve. In a car as light as yours, you may be better off saving the money and going with an LS6 style head since the low end torque really won't matter as much. But still, if you have the money, the AFR 205s will be an awesome head and will make a lot of power with a "baby" sized cam. Another good option for a light car that would benefit from a lot of topend would be at ET 215 or 225, an AFR 225 or a TEA Trickflow 225 head. A cam in the mid to high 22x range on Xer lobes would not be that bad on valvetrain wear. However, you could go bigger or stay small and use LSk lobes with comp valvetrain components and be fairly safe.
You'll have fun no matter what you do, you are driving my dream car.
As for the heads, the Patriots might flow better than the AFRs but you can't look at just the flow numbers. Most CNC LS6 heads after CNC'ing have intake runners in the 24x size range. The AFR 205s have a 205 length runner and flow damn close to a head with a much larger intake runner. This makes more port velocity and tremendously improves your torque curve. In a car as light as yours, you may be better off saving the money and going with an LS6 style head since the low end torque really won't matter as much. But still, if you have the money, the AFR 205s will be an awesome head and will make a lot of power with a "baby" sized cam. Another good option for a light car that would benefit from a lot of topend would be at ET 215 or 225, an AFR 225 or a TEA Trickflow 225 head. A cam in the mid to high 22x range on Xer lobes would not be that bad on valvetrain wear. However, you could go bigger or stay small and use LSk lobes with comp valvetrain components and be fairly safe.
You'll have fun no matter what you do, you are driving my dream car.
Also I don't mind a small amount of bump in my cam. The CheaTR seems like a great cam but if I opened up the LSA wouldn't I get a lil more on the top end? I'm looking a for a street car. I have a DD so its not that big of a deal but I don't want a car I have to spend tons of money on to keep running. Thats why i sold my cobra.
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get a custom cam for ur setup. i would not bother w/ the Z06 cam. as far as springs, Comp 918s would be good cus i doubt ur going w/ an insane lift cam. ur an FD, so will u have long tubes and then a single comin out the back? wut size piping? wut heads/intake, etc? u need to give these guys more info to help u out.
get a custom cam for ur setup. i would not bother w/ the Z06 cam. as far as springs, Comp 918s would be good cus i doubt ur going w/ an insane lift cam. ur an FD, so will u have long tubes and then a single comin out the back? wut size piping? wut heads/intake, etc? u need to give these guys more info to help u out.
i know someone on here will point u in the right direction. goodluck w/ everything. r u on TC?
Later,
Adam
Not to diverge too much from this thread but I'm not really that far along with this project. I'm still trying to sell my 750hp T88H turbo mkIV Supra, but that doesn't take up too much time. But I have 2 other projects that need to get done before the RX7. I'm in the process of making my Skyline GTR R34 street legal, registered, and titled so I can sell it. I'm starting an importing business and this is the first Skyline I have ever done. It is easy but just time consuming as you always run across something new. Plus I need to finish my Saker SVS project. Its a road race prototype race car I imported from New Zealand. It originally came with a Lexus 4L quad cam V8 but I coudln't get enough power out of it so I decided to put an LS1 mated to an Audi 01E 6 speed transaxle (which no has done yet either) into the car. So I'm currently building 2 LS1's for the Saker and RX7. One is a forged bottom end with heads/cam and all the other goodies for the Saker and will hopefully make 460-480rwhp. The other will be basically stock with a cam for the RX7 and hopefully 380rwhp. The RX7 project has not even started but since I already have the LS1 parts for that engine and the front subframe off thecar I think I'm going to go ahead and send it to Hinsons for modification for the LS1/T56 mounts, but I'm not going to get a T56 just yet or even start working on it as I really want to sell the Supra and Skyline before I dump more money into my personal cars. I think the only issue I"m going to have on the RHD RX7 is the fact that the AC will probablly hit the steering rack as they are now on the same side. But I will just have to relocate the AC which shouldn't be too bad. But Hinson currently has a RHD FD getting an LS1 so they shoudl be ahead of me so hopefully they will be able to help me figure it out before I get to it. PM anytime for questions and hopefully we can help each other out with these builds.
Later,
Adam
Sorry,
Adam



