Forging a stock LS1 block???
Forging a stock LS1 block??? My intensions....
Run NA for about a year on a forged 346 LS1.
then
Add a small FI twin setup with a max of 8-10lbs of boost.
After adding boost I am shooting for 600rwhp.
Question/Concerns...
1. Is this possible?
2. What parts do I need? IE. Fgd.Pistons, Fgd. Rods, Rod bolts, what else?
3. If i stick with a stock CR, would it be possible to simple swap heads (bigger CC) when it comes time to add the FI? (low CR = good for turbos).
I am trying to stay away from having to mess around with the short block once its time to go FI.
I am trying to save as much as possible to be able to afford the FI setup (Fuel pumps, tubing, controllers, tune, injectors, etc)
If you think i am going about this all wrong please say so.
Thanks!
Run NA for about a year on a forged 346 LS1.
then
Add a small FI twin setup with a max of 8-10lbs of boost.
After adding boost I am shooting for 600rwhp.
Question/Concerns...
1. Is this possible?
2. What parts do I need? IE. Fgd.Pistons, Fgd. Rods, Rod bolts, what else?
3. If i stick with a stock CR, would it be possible to simple swap heads (bigger CC) when it comes time to add the FI? (low CR = good for turbos).
I am trying to stay away from having to mess around with the short block once its time to go FI.
I am trying to save as much as possible to be able to afford the FI setup (Fuel pumps, tubing, controllers, tune, injectors, etc)
If you think i am going about this all wrong please say so.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Vertigo
1. Is this possible?
2. What parts do I need? IE. Fgd.Pistons, Fgd. Rods, Rod bolts, what else?
3. If i stick with a stock CR, would it be possible to simple swap heads (bigger CC) when it comes time to add the FI? (low CR = good for turbos).
Thanks!
2. What parts do I need? IE. Fgd.Pistons, Fgd. Rods, Rod bolts, what else?
3. If i stick with a stock CR, would it be possible to simple swap heads (bigger CC) when it comes time to add the FI? (low CR = good for turbos).
Thanks!
2. You can keep ur stock crank as I'm sure you know. Might want to also look at some good bearings and I think that's about it with what u've mentioned. I'd call up some sponsors and get some quotes if I were you.
3. With the 6.0L heads, I think they decrease compression enough to have a decent FI compression. Combine that with some non-flat top pistons and you'll be in the ballpark. The 317 truck casting has a cc of about 75cc. I believe that brings u to around 9.5:1.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=41
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
1. I don't see why not.
2. You can keep ur stock crank as I'm sure you know. Might want to also look at some good bearings and I think that's about it with what u've mentioned. I'd call up some sponsors and get some quotes if I were you.
3. With the 6.0L heads, I think they decrease compression enough to have a decent FI compression. Combine that with some non-flat top pistons and you'll be in the ballpark. The 317 truck casting has a cc of about 75cc. I believe that brings u to around 9.5:1.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=41
2. You can keep ur stock crank as I'm sure you know. Might want to also look at some good bearings and I think that's about it with what u've mentioned. I'd call up some sponsors and get some quotes if I were you.
3. With the 6.0L heads, I think they decrease compression enough to have a decent FI compression. Combine that with some non-flat top pistons and you'll be in the ballpark. The 317 truck casting has a cc of about 75cc. I believe that brings u to around 9.5:1.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=41
Originally Posted by MiaSSmaro98
truck heads 317 are 72 cc not 75cc.
I planned on forging the 346 while building a turbo kit, going N20 now. Anyways, I'd build her up with a 9in rear, TH400 tranny, 3500 stall and a full cage and suspension mods first. Get it ready for the power so once you have it you don't spend the next year replacing everything. Next, I'd buy the parts for the motor build and fuel system. I'd go ahead and get the blower pistons now and just break them in, otherwise you'll be couging up another $500-$800 on pistons when the time comes. Here's how I would do the motor:
-Diamond pistons
-total seal chrome topped piston rings
-Callies compstar connecting rods
-ARP everything
-double roller timing chain
-ported ls6 pump
-hardened pushrods
-comp 921s
-6.0l heads on a budget, ETP 245s or AFR 225s on a non-budget (you are going to turbocharge, budget should NOT be in your vocabulary)
-big *** blower cam
-MLS gaskets
-60lb injectors at least
-larger fuel rails/lines
-2 Walbro 255s, could go with a different pump all together
That is a good start, I'm sure I left a lot of stuff out. That is just some of the things I remember off the top of my head from my turbo research. In the end, I decided going turbo was going to get too costly and building the motor and spraying the living **** out of it with the most violent dual stage N20 kit would be just as enjoyable. Try this over in the Forced Induction section, lots of cool guys who will help ya out over there.
-Diamond pistons
-total seal chrome topped piston rings
-Callies compstar connecting rods
-ARP everything
-double roller timing chain
-ported ls6 pump
-hardened pushrods
-comp 921s
-6.0l heads on a budget, ETP 245s or AFR 225s on a non-budget (you are going to turbocharge, budget should NOT be in your vocabulary)
-big *** blower cam
-MLS gaskets
-60lb injectors at least
-larger fuel rails/lines
-2 Walbro 255s, could go with a different pump all together
That is a good start, I'm sure I left a lot of stuff out. That is just some of the things I remember off the top of my head from my turbo research. In the end, I decided going turbo was going to get too costly and building the motor and spraying the living **** out of it with the most violent dual stage N20 kit would be just as enjoyable. Try this over in the Forced Induction section, lots of cool guys who will help ya out over there.
Last edited by SVT THIS; Sep 6, 2006 at 06:33 PM.
