02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

major egos goin around here, . . . . . the only one i don't believe is vanilla89, . . i agree with guitsboy on him

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

actually looked at the pics, . . yea im sorry vanilla89, but you do think you know what you're talking about, . . . those ports are perfect! any more and he'll be making the foundation weak, (valve guides) any more removing of the "metal" (aluminum) and he'll probably be LOSING flow, . . . . the intake runners and large in the opening and gradually gets smaller as the air enters the combustion chamber, . . this allows the incoming air to gain stability and "pressure" making the area around the valve bowl bigger would cause a stall in air, . . . . . . NOW you can say you know at least something, . . . .

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

typo, . . the intake runners "are" large in the beginning

kenkaru

Please use the PM system or call out your enemies on seatstaysup.
This wasn't intended to start a pissing contest. I just posted it to help people out and save them a little time.
If you're awesome, make something better and post a link.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

hey great page. will help alot of people. but as some people have pointed out, Id like to make clear that you did not use the correct carbide cutting bits. those are steel cutting burr's. easily distinquished (fancy word to make me sound smart)from the non-furres (now showing how dumb I really am cause I cant figure out how to spell that!). anyways the steel bits are tight teeth and the alum. ones have HUGE teeth. and wont clog even w/o oiling them. but its still recomended to keep them sharp. I'll take some pics of the alum. burr's tomorrow and email them to you. also you should mention on there not to touch the short side radius except with the medium grit sand paper rolls. and only to smooth the area not to remove any meterial. and warn people of hitting the valve seats sealing area.
good job though.
chris

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

also, if you'd like Ive finished one head, and just started the other head. Im goin to take pics of the diff. stages of ea. port (intake and exh) if you'd like to include something like that on your site.
chris

2000TransAmWS6

iTrader: (12)

i'm glad you posted that up, because the burr that i was using had big teeth on it, and some people told me that it was the wrong one.
now i just need to find a longer one, can someone tell me where they got their long burrs?

also, i agree about the short side radius, the guy that tought me how to port heads works at RCR now and said that there is no flow to be gained by removing material from the short side, just smooth it out alittle

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I got all my long burrs from mcmaster-carr. Great place to order from, and super fast shipping. I use them as often as I can.

kenkaru

Thanks for all the constructive input people.

Indeed I should post an explaination that I didn't use the correct burrs. It was a concious decision since I couldn't find a great deal on the non-ferrous variety. The steel cutting ones worked well although I'm sure it went slower because of the smaller bite.

Let me just say again that the pics are NOT OF MY WORK! LOL I compiled the collages before I started as a reference. The comments are pertinent it's just irking me when people are saying you didn't do this or that. No big deal though it's all good.

PM me for my email address if you have any additional pics that you think will be helpful for future porters. In all likelyhood, I'll probably post anything I get unless they are all glare or too dark since I know it's good to look at as many pics as possible when researching. If you can get pics from the exact same angle before (during) and after, maybe I'll do an animated gif.

I'll have to add the mcmaster-carr recommendation too.

Keep the feedback coming folks.

SS_bnoon_SS

iTrader: (3)

I've used them too. I've also gotten a few extended shank burrs and extended shank mandrels for sanding drums from Enco.

One tip though, even with the correct bits a first time head porter can remove WAAAAAAAAAAY to much material in a matter of seconds if they aren't careful. My suggestion is to start out with a junk set of heads first if at all possible, just to get used to what RPM the bits need to run at, as well as get a feel for what angles work best to keep the bit under control. If you can't get the bit under control, switch to sanding drums and/or mandrels as they remove material quite a bit slower and in a more controlled fashion than burrs do.

kenkaru

I added all the suggestions. Keep it comin.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

After you get the right bit (non-ferrous), you'll be amazed. The chips will look like little shiny aluminum toe-nails on the ground they are so aggressive. You certainly have to hold back then.

Ben T.

skipperbisket

iTrader: (4)

why would you do a home ported set of heads, and NOT have them flowed or checked in any way? basically you could have hurt performance with whatever you did to the heads, the only way to know if you did anything to help is have them checked out by a professional.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Why not just have your heads sent out and cnc ported by a professional or for that matter by an aftermarket casting? $$$$$, Home porting heads is all about cost / hp gain. Flow testing cost money and that adds up. Personally I don't even know anywhere around my area that even has a flow bench, there's like 2 big performance shops in the area and 1 is 95% imports.

I understand what you're saying, but for many like me this would be a very expensive and time consuming process. There's also valuable resources like LS1Tech where obviously everyone is a DIY porting expert, but on a more serios note. There many very well informed people on here that are experts and know what they're talking about that can help people out.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Its true, you can hurt performance, but only if you totally disregard the helpful advice out there.

I didnt flow my heads, but I out dyno'ed a pair of stock ls6 heads by 35 hp on a car with only a slightly smaller cam (227/230 vs 232/234). Id say its entirely possible to have great results if you simply follow the guidelines many talented porters have shared with us.