Resleeving
09-17-2006, 04:43 PM
#21
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ok... well i'm looking to run a twin turbo set up at around 12-15 psi, thats why i want to sleeve because i dont want to take a chance of blowing the cylinder walls. I would rather pay the extra money and run the wet setup if that means higher quality, better do it right the first time than spend the money and blow it down the road and spend more to fix the problem. I already have in mind all the forged internals i would like to use, the pistons i want to use are Probe Industries Dish Pistons to lower the compression ratio(bore is 4.000) and also h beams from them, some stage 3 lq9 heads, Lunati 3.900" Stroker crank, and upgraded valvetrain. the desktop dyno says some where in the range of 8-850hp tuned correctly. but everyone i talk to says switch to the iron block, but i reallly dont want to because of the huge weight differences. i am completely confussed on what to do about the block situation. I also would use different pistons, but i like the Probe Industries because they are forged 2618-t6 Aluminum (meaning they dont expand under high pressure and heat like 4340) any suggestions on the pistons? i am looking to keep the whole engine build around 6-7 thousand because i still have put together a turbo system for my s10 which isnt goin to be the cheapest either??
09-17-2006, 05:22 PM
#22
Sleeving, bore size I can have Darton custom make a set of 4" sleeves. You would be better off doing a 4.125" MID block. Larger bore allows larger valves, better breathing, more cubes.
The MID block will handle well in excess of a thousand horsepower. Your projected power output of eight hundred fifty is well within limits. There are MID Nissan VQ35 V6 engines out there making over two thousand. Ecotec MID makes close to fifteen hundred.
You should consider steel main caps - studs for added durability.
The other parts you have chosen should work fine.
Steve
The MID block will handle well in excess of a thousand horsepower. Your projected power output of eight hundred fifty is well within limits. There are MID Nissan VQ35 V6 engines out there making over two thousand. Ecotec MID makes close to fifteen hundred.
You should consider steel main caps - studs for added durability.
The other parts you have chosen should work fine.
Steve
Originally Posted by jnoehl
ok... well i'm looking to run a twin turbo set up at around 12-15 psi, thats why i want to sleeve because i dont want to take a chance of blowing the cylinder walls. I would rather pay the extra money and run the wet setup if that means higher quality, better do it right the first time than spend the money and blow it down the road and spend more to fix the problem. I already have in mind all the forged internals i would like to use, the pistons i want to use are Probe Industries Dish Pistons to lower the compression ratio(bore is 4.000) and also h beams from them, some stage 3 lq9 heads, Lunati 3.900" Stroker crank, and upgraded valvetrain. the desktop dyno says some where in the range of 8-850hp tuned correctly. but everyone i talk to says switch to the iron block, but i reallly dont want to because of the huge weight differences. i am completely confussed on what to do about the block situation. I also would use different pistons, but i like the Probe Industries because they are forged 2618-t6 Aluminum (meaning they dont expand under high pressure and heat like 4340) any suggestions on the pistons? i am looking to keep the whole engine build around 6-7 thousand because i still have put together a turbo system for my s10 which isnt goin to be the cheapest either??
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Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
09-17-2006, 06:11 PM
#23
Originally Posted by jnoehl
I also would use different pistons, but i like the Probe Industries because they are forged 2618-t6 Aluminum (meaning they dont expand under high pressure and heat like 4340) any suggestions on the pistons?
09-17-2006, 07:33 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Steve - Race Eng
Charlie Weston does the blocks for Cartek as far as I know. Charlie has a good shop and reputation.
Are you having a problem with the block?
Are you having a problem with the block?
Well as I said there was damage to one sleeve so the whole bock needed to be honed. The current bore was a 4.090. There is still over .100 of the wall sleeve so they're taking it to a 4.125. Honing the block another .035 would make the wall thickness what, a .0825 if the sleeve thickness was exactly .100? and it was well over .100 from what the machine shop told me. I forgot what the actual thickness was, i'll have to ask again. You said anything over .80 for the wall thickness should be alright.
then again theyre dry sleeves not MIDs, maybe I should call Dave.
09-17-2006, 11:12 PM
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yeah 4.125 sounds like what i'm going to end up with, why not might as well its not too much more expensive than what i'm goin in for i'm sure. i have been lookin at a set of diamond pistons also, thinks thats what i'm going to end up with they have some nice dish pistons with 4.125" bore. thanx everyone for all the info, i am a bit of a new when it comes to resleeving. seems like steve is DA'MAN. i will be in contact with you when i get the money together in the next couple of months! what would a 4.125 MID LS1 Resleeve run me, machining parts and all done by RED/steve?
09-17-2006, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jnoehl
ok... well i'm looking to run a twin turbo set up at around 12-15 psi, thats why i want to sleeve because i dont want to take a chance of blowing the cylinder walls. I would rather pay the extra money and run the wet setup if that means higher quality, better do it right the first time than spend the money and blow it down the road and spend more to fix the problem. I already have in mind all the forged internals i would like to use, the pistons i want to use are Probe Industries Dish Pistons to lower the compression ratio(bore is 4.000) and also h beams from them, some stage 3 lq9 heads, Lunati 3.900" Stroker crank, and upgraded valvetrain. the desktop dyno says some where in the range of 8-850hp tuned correctly. but everyone i talk to says switch to the iron block, but i reallly dont want to because of the huge weight differences. i am completely confussed on what to do about the block situation. I also would use different pistons, but i like the Probe Industries because they are forged 2618-t6 Aluminum (meaning they dont expand under high pressure and heat like 4340) any suggestions on the pistons? i am looking to keep the whole engine build around 6-7 thousand because i still have put together a turbo system for my s10 which isnt goin to be the cheapest either??
09-18-2006, 12:23 PM
#27
Originally Posted by jermzz
wow... got search?
Darton makes MID sleeves for the ls1 all the way up to a 4.125 bore, with with a 4" stroke is a 427ci.
Anyone whos anyone seems to send Steve at RED their motor to do their sleeves. Mine were done by Darton themselves. You can go to Thunder Racing, texas speed along with just about any other major sponsor and get the sleeves from them, theyre 1320 dollars. Expect to pay upwards of 2500 for a resleeved block.
Anything else please search, theres plenty on the subject!
Darton makes MID sleeves for the ls1 all the way up to a 4.125 bore, with with a 4" stroke is a 427ci.
Anyone whos anyone seems to send Steve at RED their motor to do their sleeves. Mine were done by Darton themselves. You can go to Thunder Racing, texas speed along with just about any other major sponsor and get the sleeves from them, theyre 1320 dollars. Expect to pay upwards of 2500 for a resleeved block.
Anything else please search, theres plenty on the subject!
......I have the older sleeves that were max bore of 4.160" but Steve has since been able to rework the sleeve design to get 4.200" bore.....as everyone has stated......"search" is your friend.......99% of any topic you can think of has been discussed at least once on this place.....
12-02-2006, 07:58 PM
#28
just to bring this up to the top since i'm finally pulling this engine apart, i have a 3-4 year old A.R.E. 382 all bore. I'm pretty sure they did the dry sleeving process. But i want to make 100% sure. What can I check to make sure it is one or the other sleeving process?
Chris
Chris
