383 or 395 stroker???
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From: Pocahontas, AR
383 or 395 stroker??? Well, to make a long story short, I all-but spun a rod bearing a while back and had planned on going back with stock internals (everything was kept standard luckly). But now there's alot of fast cars showing up around here and I don't want to go through the trouble of putting it back together and having the same car again. I've got all winter anyways right? So, I've been looking at stroking. Don't know alot about what works best and what's worth the money. I seen lunati's 395 stoker rotating assembly and liked it, but wasn't sure how it performed. Would like to go with the 12.5:1 compression assembly. My car is not my only car and will not be driven that often. Have a 4000 yank (getting restalled to 4400) and car has been lightened alot. Just wondering what everyone thinks about this stroker, haven't seen much about it. Thanks.
Chris
Chris
You could have a whole short block built for the price of the Lunati Stroker kit. Don't get me wrong, I use the Lunati crank, but for a 383 or 395, the Eagle kit would be plenty. You can get the 4" or 4.100" in the Eagle. IMO, stroker kits don't "perform" better than another. It mostly comes down to stregnth and weight. IMO, I'd build the most cubes avalible, unless you gunna be throwing a heavy power adder at it, then I'd opt for the 383 for better bore/stroke ratio.
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From: Pocahontas, AR
So eagle offers the 395 too? It's not that I'm stuck on strokers, it's just I thought it'd be an easy way to get power from my factory block. I'm really up for anything. Money is limited somewhat, but I will wait/save if I find something I can't live without. I probably won't be putting any power adder on it. But the car will definatly see alot of track time and street abuse. Don't care if I have to buy race fuel or adjust valve lash on solid lifters alot. Just kicking around ideas right now. Will also be buying heads and a bigger cam. Currently have TSP's MS3 cam. Thanks for the input, appreciate all the info I can get.
Chris
Chris
having had a 395 i can recommend one. mine made 460 rwhp with a lunati cam and a set of mildly ported heads. there was alot more to be had with a big camshaft and afr or the like heads, but i was happy with how it worked and left it alone. my new motor is insane but i cant complain about the 395 stroker.
imo i wouldnt use eagle internals in any motor, they are junk and you will spend almost as much to properly balance the assembly if you were to just buy a lunati kit. lunati will put Pro-Mod rods in a kit in place of the Pro-Billet rods and the price comes down considerably. we just did this for a friend of mine.
imo i wouldnt use eagle internals in any motor, they are junk and you will spend almost as much to properly balance the assembly if you were to just buy a lunati kit. lunati will put Pro-Mod rods in a kit in place of the Pro-Billet rods and the price comes down considerably. we just did this for a friend of mine.
Originally Posted by antz01ta
imo i wouldnt use eagle internals in any motor, they are junk and you will spend almost as much to properly balance the assembly if you were to just buy a lunati kit. lunati will put Pro-Mod rods in a kit in place of the Pro-Billet rods and the price comes down considerably. we just did this for a friend of mine.
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
That's outrageous man. The Eagle parts are fine and can withstand almost any abuse. If you have a shop who deals with these cranks everyday, like most of our sponsors, they will tell you that there is nothing wrong with them at all. They may take a little extra in the balancing department, but I'll pay $100 extra for that rather than $1400 extra for a Lunati. The only reason I have a Lunati in my motor is because they were the only ones with the avalible stroke I needed. It's just to much overkill for the vast majority of racers. You can also swap the pro mods for the pro billets if you want, but the Pro mods are one of the heaviset rods on the market. I went through this already in my motor build. The Eagle was gunna cost $799 and a extra $100 added on to the balancing fee because of the extra work/metal. The Lunati was $2100 before any balancing. Price diffrence between the 2 Lunati rods isn't gunna be more than $5-600 max, hardly "considerable" if you ask me. Rant off......
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From: Pocahontas, AR
I know there is alot of people running both. Don't really remember reading anything bad about either one, but don't want to cut any corners in building my engine, but if it is way overkill there's no need to spend an extra 1-2K. How much power can I expect out of a 395 lunati stroker 12.5:1 compression with nice ported heads and a big solid roller cam? What are some other options to go with? What about the 402 or similar shortblock? Thanks for the replies.
Chris
Chris
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From: Pocahontas, AR
Yea, I'll probably go with lunati, not that I just don't want eagle, just would feel better when I'm bouncing off the rev-limiter. But what kind of power should I expect out of a large cammed, high compression 395 stroker? Would call a sponsor, but they're all closed right now. What about track times? Anyone on here have a similar set-up?
2000 Z28 A4, 4400 yank, spooled 4:30's, 28x12.50 ET Streets, LOTS of weight reduction, solid motor mounts, long tubes, 3" x-pipe, full suspension, 90/90 intake.
Thanks
Chris
2000 Z28 A4, 4400 yank, spooled 4:30's, 28x12.50 ET Streets, LOTS of weight reduction, solid motor mounts, long tubes, 3" x-pipe, full suspension, 90/90 intake.
Thanks
Chris
Originally Posted by Gold Z
Lunati is American.
Eagle is Chinese.
I'll pay extra for American quality and to keep our aftermarket parts industry in America.
Eagle is Chinese.
I'll pay extra for American quality and to keep our aftermarket parts industry in America.
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From: Pocahontas, AR
Cool, that sounds alright. I put down ~400 hp cam only through unlocked pt4000 and 4:30's. I was hoping for 500-550 n/a through pt4400 and 4:30's. What about the rev-speed of the 395. Can it still spin to 7K+ rpm? Surely it will, just some people say it wont like to rev higher due to longer stroke. But if you have a large cam that needs to spin fast, what can you do? Sorry if I'm asking goofy questions, just want to do my homework before shelling out months of paychecks...
I've got an eagle rotating assembly in my 383. It came in very close to dead on in balance and reqired very little work to get right. I got the H-beam rods, JE pistons, ARP bolts, and Clevite bearings, had it bulit locally. I've been very happy with the kit so far and can't say that I have any complaints.
In my opinion, unless you're building an all out race car, it's pointless to buy a Lunati kit. You won't break the Eagle kit, and $2400 will cover a good set of heads, cam, and then some. It's easy for people to say that if they aren't the ones writing the checks.
Btw, I was told on the 383, shifts at 7k would be no problem, and mine is balanced to 8200 if I remember right.
In my opinion, unless you're building an all out race car, it's pointless to buy a Lunati kit. You won't break the Eagle kit, and $2400 will cover a good set of heads, cam, and then some. It's easy for people to say that if they aren't the ones writing the checks.
Btw, I was told on the 383, shifts at 7k would be no problem, and mine is balanced to 8200 if I remember right.
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From: Pocahontas, AR
Well, looked at eagle's site and they don't make a 395 stroker rotating assembly. 4.000 stroke crank is the largest they make for 3.905 bore. Gonna call around to some sponsors and see what they say. So, noone has said, what if you had the same compression and big cam in a larger ci motor, but not as much stroke? Like the 402 or 408. If they are really close to the same price wouldn't you want the one with the most potential? Sorry I've got so many questions, just trying to learn as much as I can.
Chris
Chris
Go 408
I spray over 700rwhp A4 with a eagle set-up. No problems. LME likes them in there set-ups! Now if I would have deep pockets I would have went with Lunati. But I wanted to spend the extra money on the heads and extra`s!
I spray over 700rwhp A4 with a eagle set-up. No problems. LME likes them in there set-ups! Now if I would have deep pockets I would have went with Lunati. But I wanted to spend the extra money on the heads and extra`s! 
I have a 395 stroker (11.3:1) with 243 castings that flow 330cfm@.600 lift. I haven't been to the track yet but raced a Stang that runs 11.50's @118mph and passed his *** in 3rd gear
99z full weight 6 speed
99z full weight 6 speed
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From: Pocahontas, AR
beardWS6, How, much do you put down on motor only. It's not that I don't like nitrous, just chose not to ever use it. Also, unlocked or locked converter. That's some serious rwhp, I was actually thinking of going 408. I don't know what makes a 408, can you still get the alluminum block? Thanks.
cdubbzz Got any track times yet? My car stock internal went 11.85's all day long and then went with the ms3 from tsp and dropped 1/2 second off 1/8 mile times, so surely you should be down in the lower 11's or upper 10's depending on setup. Sorry, just seen the full weight 6 speed part. I just want to spend money on what's going to show most gain at the track. Thanks all for your replies, learned alot so far.
Chris
cdubbzz Got any track times yet? My car stock internal went 11.85's all day long and then went with the ms3 from tsp and dropped 1/2 second off 1/8 mile times, so surely you should be down in the lower 11's or upper 10's depending on setup. Sorry, just seen the full weight 6 speed part. I just want to spend money on what's going to show most gain at the track. Thanks all for your replies, learned alot so far.
Chris
4.1 stroke RSR=1.49 w/ 6.125" rods and 1.48 w/ 6.100 rods
4.0 stroke RSR=1.53/1.525/1.50 with 6.125/6.100/6.000" rods
Piston Speed @7000 rpm
4783 fpm w/ 4.1" stroke
4667 fpm w/ 4.0" stroke
Anybody know if there are any arguments against the longer 4.1 due to block clearance/oil control ring issues?
Most engine builders reccomend keeping your fpm well under 4500 for a street engine, and consider 5000 fpm the territory of alluminum/rods and billet goodies. 7000 rpm is pushing it with either (especially the 4.1")
4.0 stroke RSR=1.53/1.525/1.50 with 6.125/6.100/6.000" rods
Piston Speed @7000 rpm
4783 fpm w/ 4.1" stroke
4667 fpm w/ 4.0" stroke
Anybody know if there are any arguments against the longer 4.1 due to block clearance/oil control ring issues?
Most engine builders reccomend keeping your fpm well under 4500 for a street engine, and consider 5000 fpm the territory of alluminum/rods and billet goodies. 7000 rpm is pushing it with either (especially the 4.1")
