View Poll Results: What cam would be the best choice for what I am looking for?
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228/232 .588/.592 110LSA (+1) VS. a TR224/224 .563/.563 112
09-21-2006, 11:39 AM
#22
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The TR224 112 is a proven cam and works great with stock heads. However the 228/232 cam has more duration, lift and a better DCR utilizing stock heads so it's a no brainer.
09-21-2006, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
You degree it with a degree kit and adjust via adjustable T-Chain.
09-21-2006, 12:18 PM
#24
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Idealy you should degree any cam, to make sure you install it at desired ICL.
A +4 cam would be more forgiving since if it is not exactly +4 at dot to dot, then the difference would not have a serious effect from being retarded.
However that 228/232 110+4 will peak at like 5800/5900 due to its 39 IVC, and will die off sooner after peak, meaning your shiftpoints will be lower like 6100>6200. In a nutshell low to mid trq will be outrageous but it will not carry the peak power for long and will be what we call a peaky cam. One benefit is that it will work well with 2.73 or 3.23 gears, but run out of band with 3.73s or 4.10s.
A +4 cam would be more forgiving since if it is not exactly +4 at dot to dot, then the difference would not have a serious effect from being retarded.
However that 228/232 110+4 will peak at like 5800/5900 due to its 39 IVC, and will die off sooner after peak, meaning your shiftpoints will be lower like 6100>6200. In a nutshell low to mid trq will be outrageous but it will not carry the peak power for long and will be what we call a peaky cam. One benefit is that it will work well with 2.73 or 3.23 gears, but run out of band with 3.73s or 4.10s.
09-21-2006, 12:23 PM
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ok, thanks! Must be nice to know what you know about this stuff 
so, about where will the +2 cam peak at and where abouts would my shiftpoints be?
so, about where will the +2 cam peak at and where abouts would my shiftpoints be?
09-21-2006, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Idealy you should degree any cam, to make sure you install it at desired ICL.
A +4 cam would be more forgiving since if it is not exactly +4 at dot to dot, then the difference would not have a serious effect from being retarded.
However that 228/232 110+4 will peak at like 5800/5900 due to its 39 IVC, and will die off sooner after peak, meaning your shiftpoints will be lower like 6100>6200. In a nutshell low to mid trq will be outrageous but it will not carry the peak power for long and will be what we call a peaky cam. One benefit is that it will work well with 2.73 or 3.23 gears, but run out of band with 3.73s or 4.10s.
A +4 cam would be more forgiving since if it is not exactly +4 at dot to dot, then the difference would not have a serious effect from being retarded.
However that 228/232 110+4 will peak at like 5800/5900 due to its 39 IVC, and will die off sooner after peak, meaning your shiftpoints will be lower like 6100>6200. In a nutshell low to mid trq will be outrageous but it will not carry the peak power for long and will be what we call a peaky cam. One benefit is that it will work well with 2.73 or 3.23 gears, but run out of band with 3.73s or 4.10s.
09-21-2006, 01:09 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by JR HAWK 9
ok, thanks! Must be nice to know what you know about this stuff
so, about where will the +2 cam peak at and where abouts would my shiftpoints be?
so, about where will the +2 cam peak at and where abouts would my shiftpoints be?
It will carry at least till 6500/6600
Keep in mind guys this is relative to the rest of the combo so it is not 100% accurate and could vary 100+/- rpm in either direction.
09-21-2006, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Correct, However more advance lifts the DCR which 8.5 was found as a tool to extract those little hiding ponies. makes the cam more responsive low to midrange to the SCR at which it is running. Since the LSx heads are so efficient with a nice quench area/valve angle and plug position this is another tool at our disposition.
We are discussing E.C.R, D.C.R, S.C.R and cam selection right now in my thermodynamics class.
09-21-2006, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If you're putting that as cam only on a LS1 it is better to have it as
228/232, 110 +2 to raise your DCR a little more
The 228 will make more power, how much, well at least 10>15
228/232, 110 +2 to raise your DCR a little more
The 228 will make more power, how much, well at least 10>15
So the 110 +1 would be better for aftermarket heads?
09-21-2006, 09:04 PM
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Okay i wanted to get in on this convo, Hey predator Z I would appreciate a little help here as I want around 420-440 RWHP so let me first say I just got done with my heads and cam swap today and the guy at speed inc sent me a TR224 581 lift 114 because I have a stock stall at least i do for the next 2 weeks then I am changing it. I Love the way the cam feels and even has a slight lope and works with the stall so theres my impressions of it thus far.
OKay to predator Z I have a 02 TA with 3.73 gears, 27K bottom end that had less than 2% leakdown when tested, I installed magnaflow cat back, its tuned using HP 2.1, has the K&N panel filter, has Patriot LS6 CNCed heads with gold springs titanium retainers, 2.02 in and 1.57 ex valves by ferra and 59cc chambers, comp pushrods, ls6 MLS gaskets, 8.5 MSD wires, smooth bellows, the TR224 cam. Thats as of right now tomarrow UPS will visit me again an I will add an SLP lid, coated pacesetter longtube headers, new Y pipe, and a 255 walbro as well. I will be using a 125 shot later but the RWHP I want, I want that in NA form and then the 125 on top of that when needed. Well this is my DD and want to have a better cam so I would love a recommendation i was thinking of the MS4 but don't know and what stall would be good for the street?? Thanks in advance
OKay to predator Z I have a 02 TA with 3.73 gears, 27K bottom end that had less than 2% leakdown when tested, I installed magnaflow cat back, its tuned using HP 2.1, has the K&N panel filter, has Patriot LS6 CNCed heads with gold springs titanium retainers, 2.02 in and 1.57 ex valves by ferra and 59cc chambers, comp pushrods, ls6 MLS gaskets, 8.5 MSD wires, smooth bellows, the TR224 cam. Thats as of right now tomarrow UPS will visit me again an I will add an SLP lid, coated pacesetter longtube headers, new Y pipe, and a 255 walbro as well. I will be using a 125 shot later but the RWHP I want, I want that in NA form and then the 125 on top of that when needed. Well this is my DD and want to have a better cam so I would love a recommendation i was thinking of the MS4 but don't know and what stall would be good for the street?? Thanks in advance
09-22-2006, 12:41 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
You degree it with a degree kit and adjust via adjustable T-Chain.
In reference to the 228/232 .588/.592 110LSA (+1) ...... What would be the effect/drawbacks of just installing it heads up?? "dot to dot"?
09-22-2006, 01:26 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by bandit1
Okay i wanted to get in on this convo, Hey predator Z I would appreciate a little help here as I want around 420-440 RWHP so let me first say I just got done with my heads and cam swap today and the guy at speed inc sent me a TR224 581 lift 114 because I have a stock stall at least i do for the next 2 weeks then I am changing it. I Love the way the cam feels and even has a slight lope and works with the stall so theres my impressions of it thus far.
OKay to predator Z I have a 02 TA with 3.73 gears, 27K bottom end that had less than 2% leakdown when tested, I installed magnaflow cat back, its tuned using HP 2.1, has the K&N panel filter, has Patriot LS6 CNCed heads with gold springs titanium retainers, 2.02 in and 1.57 ex valves by ferra and 59cc chambers, comp pushrods, ls6 MLS gaskets, 8.5 MSD wires, smooth bellows, the TR224 cam. Thats as of right now tomarrow UPS will visit me again an I will add an SLP lid, coated pacesetter longtube headers, new Y pipe, and a 255 walbro as well. I will be using a 125 shot later but the RWHP I want, I want that in NA form and then the 125 on top of that when needed. Well this is my DD and want to have a better cam so I would love a recommendation i was thinking of the MS4 but don't know and what stall would be good for the street?? Thanks in advance
OKay to predator Z I have a 02 TA with 3.73 gears, 27K bottom end that had less than 2% leakdown when tested, I installed magnaflow cat back, its tuned using HP 2.1, has the K&N panel filter, has Patriot LS6 CNCed heads with gold springs titanium retainers, 2.02 in and 1.57 ex valves by ferra and 59cc chambers, comp pushrods, ls6 MLS gaskets, 8.5 MSD wires, smooth bellows, the TR224 cam. Thats as of right now tomarrow UPS will visit me again an I will add an SLP lid, coated pacesetter longtube headers, new Y pipe, and a 255 walbro as well. I will be using a 125 shot later but the RWHP I want, I want that in NA form and then the 125 on top of that when needed. Well this is my DD and want to have a better cam so I would love a recommendation i was thinking of the MS4 but don't know and what stall would be good for the street?? Thanks in advance
09-22-2006, 01:28 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by Sneaky
In reference to the 228/232 .588/.592 110LSA (+1) ...... What would be the effect/drawbacks of just installing it heads up?? "dot to dot"?
Degreing the cam will ensure that.
All cams should be degreed, but especialy ones with little advance in grind, since if dot to dot is not exactly 110+1, then you can loose trq output.
09-22-2006, 10:37 AM
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I would not call it a rough idle but it does have a noticeable idle.
Predator Z I have had it tuned by the guys at HPtuners but we drove around to tune it not on a dyno but I will dyno it to see where I sit but I do want to know what cam you would reccomend and what stall would be good for the street. Also I noticed that the tops of the pistons had a bit of carbon build up on them proabaly due to someone not caring for the oil properly but what can I use to disolve this I did add a can of 44K suppose to do well pricey but good for cleaning the fuel system. Anything else I could do too make the inside as good as the heads I just installed!?? Thanks in advance
Predator Z I have had it tuned by the guys at HPtuners but we drove around to tune it not on a dyno but I will dyno it to see where I sit but I do want to know what cam you would reccomend and what stall would be good for the street. Also I noticed that the tops of the pistons had a bit of carbon build up on them proabaly due to someone not caring for the oil properly but what can I use to disolve this I did add a can of 44K suppose to do well pricey but good for cleaning the fuel system. Anything else I could do too make the inside as good as the heads I just installed!?? Thanks in advance
09-22-2006, 10:59 AM
#39
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you should have manualy cleaned the carbon when heads were off.
Some poeple use "seafoam" but I don't like that in my motor.
I use Redline fuel injector cleaner once in a while, works good. that and a nice shot of nitrous and voila
A good street stall is VIG 3200, i've had mine for 2 years now with countless passes and high heat environment and 3 motors.
cam is up to you, this thread mentions 228/232 on a 110+2 which is a really good street cam. (one of mmy favorites)
G5X1 is good too as is the TSP 228R
Some poeple use "seafoam" but I don't like that in my motor.
I use Redline fuel injector cleaner once in a while, works good. that and a nice shot of nitrous and voila
A good street stall is VIG 3200, i've had mine for 2 years now with countless passes and high heat environment and 3 motors.
cam is up to you, this thread mentions 228/232 on a 110+2 which is a really good street cam. (one of mmy favorites)
G5X1 is good too as is the TSP 228R
09-22-2006, 11:08 AM
#40
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
you should have manualy cleaned the carbon when heads were off.
Some poeple use "seafoam" but I don't like that in my motor.
I use Redline fuel injector cleaner once in a while, works good. that and a nice shot of nitrous and voila
A good street stall is VIG 3200, i've had mine for 2 years now with countless passes and high heat environment and 3 motors.
cam is up to you, this thread mentions 228/232 on a 110+2 which is a really good street cam. (one of mmy favorites)
G5X1 is good too as is the TSP 228R
Some poeple use "seafoam" but I don't like that in my motor.
I use Redline fuel injector cleaner once in a while, works good. that and a nice shot of nitrous and voila
A good street stall is VIG 3200, i've had mine for 2 years now with countless passes and high heat environment and 3 motors.
cam is up to you, this thread mentions 228/232 on a 110+2 which is a really good street cam. (one of mmy favorites)
G5X1 is good too as is the TSP 228R