6spds, Cams, Bucking---What's the real deal
#41
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Pewterme,
It's possible you are hitting dfco rpm or map. You might want to check what it's set at and if nec, re-adjust to different datums.
If that isn't it; try adjusting throttle follower and or cracker to get rid of it.
It's possible you are hitting dfco rpm or map. You might want to check what it's set at and if nec, re-adjust to different datums.
If that isn't it; try adjusting throttle follower and or cracker to get rid of it.
#42
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Originally Posted by jegten
so, when you didn't degree it the first time, was it installed dot to dot?
that's quite a difference.
are your cam specs like mine?
yes, i am planning to start in a couple of weeks, heads, cam, ud pulley, R lifters, and 42lb injectors, quite a bit at the same time. yikes!
i sure will keep everyone posted.
let me know.
that's quite a difference.
are your cam specs like mine?
yes, i am planning to start in a couple of weeks, heads, cam, ud pulley, R lifters, and 42lb injectors, quite a bit at the same time. yikes!
i sure will keep everyone posted.
let me know.
Originally Posted by Sid447
Pewterme,
It's possible you are hitting dfco rpm or map. You might want to check what it's set at and if nec, re-adjust to different datums.
If that isn't it; try adjusting throttle follower and or cracker to get rid of it.
It's possible you are hitting dfco rpm or map. You might want to check what it's set at and if nec, re-adjust to different datums.
If that isn't it; try adjusting throttle follower and or cracker to get rid of it.
I'm supposed to be going back to Nashville sometime soon to let him tweak it a little more and will ask him about this. Does the C5 have a throttle cracker?? Seems there was something different?? Anyway, appreciate the suggestion.
#43
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Originally Posted by jegten
hey, Pred,
what did you reduce by 97%?
all three?
what did you reduce by 97%?
all three?
The bigger displacement probably helps out too...
Im along teh same lines, ive got a huge majority of it tuned out, but every once in a while my right foot does the magic combination to make it buck.
#44
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Originally Posted by Ksett
Why not a speed demsity tune? The tuner can put your MAF back on after the tune and you will still have the drivabilty benefits from the tune. This is what I have on my car and it's made a huge difference from the dyno tune I had previously.
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So...
Can anyone describe exactly what causes the oscillation? I know what factors can affect it, but can anyone explain exactly what is going on when this surging occurs?
Can anyone describe exactly what causes the oscillation? I know what factors can affect it, but can anyone explain exactly what is going on when this surging occurs?
#48
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Too little fuel, too little timing are what I usually hear, but im sure you can overshoot this too...
I'm sure there are more factors to consider, like SCR as well.
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I was hoping for something a bit more specific. There's an oscillation going. At one point the engine is surging and putting out more power than you want, and at another point the engine lulls falling in RPMs and not putting out the power you want. What's happening at each point and why?
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Originally Posted by Gauge
I was hoping for something a bit more specific. There's an oscillation going. At one point the engine is surging and putting out more power than you want, and at another point the engine lulls falling in RPMs and not putting out the power you want. What's happening at each point and why?
EDIT -- Inquisitive nerds can be a real PITA, can't they?![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
I think he reduced his bucking by 97%.
The bigger displacement probably helps out too...
Im along teh same lines, ive got a huge majority of it tuned out, but every once in a while my right foot does the magic combination to make it buck.
The bigger displacement probably helps out too...
Im along teh same lines, ive got a huge majority of it tuned out, but every once in a while my right foot does the magic combination to make it buck.
initially, i had your cam, and changed to this particular one.
we'll see what happens.
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anyone-and sorry if hijacking
the setup i was installing included the tsp torquer 2 cam, stock rocker arms, and the stock length on the pushrods (7.40) was fine.
now that i changed to this cam, 228/232, .588/.595, but mine is on a 110+2lsa, will the stock length PR (7.40) fit fine?
it just occurred to me since i got the cam last week.
thanks
the setup i was installing included the tsp torquer 2 cam, stock rocker arms, and the stock length on the pushrods (7.40) was fine.
now that i changed to this cam, 228/232, .588/.595, but mine is on a 110+2lsa, will the stock length PR (7.40) fit fine?
it just occurred to me since i got the cam last week.
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thanks
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#53
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Anyone want to share what the timing is at low map?
Im right around:
800 - 28*
1000 - 33*
1200 - 39*
1400 - 40*
1600 - 42*
1800 - 43*
2000 - 44*
As MAP goes up, timing falls off.
Does this look about right? Ive seen a lot of people say to jump right up into the 40's where the bucking takes place...
Im right around:
800 - 28*
1000 - 33*
1200 - 39*
1400 - 40*
1600 - 42*
1800 - 43*
2000 - 44*
As MAP goes up, timing falls off.
Does this look about right? Ive seen a lot of people say to jump right up into the 40's where the bucking takes place...
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Originally Posted by muncie21
Rode with a guy today that had a MN6 with a 224/224 on a 112 and no bucking at all. I'm going to go with door number 3: The Tune!!
#57
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You know what also, that bucking may not all come from the cam. I actually have slight bucking now after i swapped to 4.10s (i only have a 224 cam) Its possible it could be due to the very low final drive gear on first and the low speed you are doing. (ie I have to keep slight pressure on the gas when cruising through a parking lot)
You will however experience hot starts where after you re-start a hot motor the idle is very erradic until it finishes hunting.
You will however experience hot starts where after you re-start a hot motor the idle is very erradic until it finishes hunting.
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Hot Idle start issues and idle hunting are far easier to tune out that this blasted bucking... I dont believe the two are related. I have no idle hunting or surge, hot or cold start.
That's where I'm at too. I have a 383 with TSP Giant cam. Idle is perfect....in park or in gear. In fact I can't get it to stall. No surge at all.
Only problem area is part throttle between 1400 and 1800 RPM's. I have the fuel dialed in with wideband. I have played with the timing and have gotten nowhere. It sits dead on timing and fuel cells (not switching between two cells) but still bucks. For the time being I have the converter lockup adjusted to keep me out of that range. I'll try again when I get more patience
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Originally Posted by jay_99z
That's where I'm at too. I have a 383 with TSP Giant cam. Idle is perfect....in park or in gear. In fact I can't get it to stall. No surge at all.
Only problem area is part throttle between 1400 and 1800 RPM's. I have the fuel dialed in with wideband. I have played with the timing and have gotten nowhere. It sits dead on timing and fuel cells (not switching between two cells) but still bucks. For the time being I have the converter lockup adjusted to keep me out of that range. I'll try again when I get more patience
Only problem area is part throttle between 1400 and 1800 RPM's. I have the fuel dialed in with wideband. I have played with the timing and have gotten nowhere. It sits dead on timing and fuel cells (not switching between two cells) but still bucks. For the time being I have the converter lockup adjusted to keep me out of that range. I'll try again when I get more patience