How do you put on your LS1 head gaskets?
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How do you put on your LS1 head gaskets? I just tore the engine down and found on the pass side bank that the "front", stamped on the gasket, was facing the back, BUT, "this side up" was up. Hmmm, now, either you have the "front" facing foward but the "this side up" facing down, or, "this side up" and the front facing the back?????
I have not looked too far into the head gaskets, but, is there a specific head gasket for a specific side?
I have not looked too far into the head gaskets, but, is there a specific head gasket for a specific side?
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How long did it take you to tear down the motor to get at the gaskets? I am looking at having to do that in the spring. Hopefully my cylinders aren't full of coolant from a failed head gasket(s)
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took me about 5 hours or so, but, I have it COMPLETLY stripped. No AC etc. I had to pop off the steering universal joint thingy so I could get a bar between the manifold and head because the bolts would not come out past the manifold. Is a lot easier with everything outta the way, but, if your just going afetr the heads, probably 2.5 hours going at it gung ho. One thing I know is that removing the A.I.R(?) tubes make all the differance in the world....a must do if you have them.
If they are, or you think there leaking, I would drain the radiator and block as much as possible, and refill with solid coolant. Run the engine for a few to warm up, drain and refill again 2 or 3 times. There will be so much antifreeze in there by then, NOTHING would rust.
If they are, or you think there leaking, I would drain the radiator and block as much as possible, and refill with solid coolant. Run the engine for a few to warm up, drain and refill again 2 or 3 times. There will be so much antifreeze in there by then, NOTHING would rust.
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Well thanks a lot for the reply. Sounds like my buddy and I won't have any trouble at all. Hopefully get her done in less then 8 hours. That's torn down, and put back together with coolant topped off and ready to RACE ! 
Originally Posted by SLED28
Front goes to the front, whether its upside down or not.
no it has to go to front, whether its upside down or not. The heads are the same, but the block isn't 
The block has the water passages at the back on both sides. Have a look at these gaskets, you can see the two water holes on the left side of the gaskets.... Thats the holes that have to to match the block at the back.
The block has the water passages at the back on both sides. Have a look at these gaskets, you can see the two water holes on the left side of the gaskets.... Thats the holes that have to to match the block at the back. Okay, I see what you mean... I looked at some old pics i had from last time i had my heads off, and yeah, those coolant passages at the back of the block would require a front/rear orientation.
You would overheat in 10 or 15mins, possibly just idiling it will overheat.. . And depending on how hot it got, it could warp the heads, scuff the pistons, scratch the cylinder walls, blow a head gasket.
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I need to check things out when I get home, but, heads will be replaced as some of the valve stem tips look all worn all funky. One of them even looks like it has a depressionin it 
, so, my main concern would be for the block. Engine ran quiet as a mouse, so, not too many concerns on the bottom end, but, scuffing ehy? Hmm, the side with the reversed gasket looked damn good and the drivers side looked worn, lol?? Will have to go out with a good flashlight tonight and check the bores to see how they are. What does cylinder coring look like? Are we talking excessive/accelerated but normal(?) looking wear, scuffing like shearing metal or all of the above? I am fairly sure I can figure out what looks "abnormal" but I never really had "scuffing" *pointed out* to me 
, so, my main concern would be for the block. Engine ran quiet as a mouse, so, not too many concerns on the bottom end, but, scuffing ehy? Hmm, the side with the reversed gasket looked damn good and the drivers side looked worn, lol?? Will have to go out with a good flashlight tonight and check the bores to see how they are. What does cylinder coring look like? Are we talking excessive/accelerated but normal(?) looking wear, scuffing like shearing metal or all of the above? I am fairly sure I can figure out what looks "abnormal" but I never really had "scuffing" *pointed out* to me it could scuff cause the piston since if it overheats it will expand and start losing clearance and possibly scuff the walls. Do you know what temp you hit? Unless you drove it for a little while hot, you should be ok.
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Well, I never drove it on the street long enough fo rit t fully warm up. When I looked at it, it was driven for 5 minutes from cold. It had preassure but I carefully pulled the cap. Nothing came out and nothing was bubbling. I then reved it up good and still no bubbles or gurgling. When I got it home, 4 hours back, I warmed it up REAL good and thats when I noticed it missing in the exhaust and a vibration in the hose, like the hose was missing a beat, lol. When I pulled the cap, thats when it was purculating. Not bad as it really didnt blow any water out past the outter neck, but, definitley not normal. Before I popped the cap off though, The fans were on, then, they finally shut off for the most part. The paas side fan was on real slow but maybe thats because I have a computer issue to deal with? Not sure if the temp guage is correct, but, it was pegged over about 1/4" from the red zone. I am not sure how long the other bozo drove it for.
Interesting I was looking at it during lunch. The pass side cylinders, the one with the wrongly placed gasket, looked fresh, as if a new motor, the drivers side cylinders looked worn, but not galled or any thing. There is oil and water in the cylinders and when I cranked it over, there wasnt any real bad straks on the cylinder, indicating galled rings, if you know what I mean.
Interesting I was looking at it during lunch. The pass side cylinders, the one with the wrongly placed gasket, looked fresh, as if a new motor, the drivers side cylinders looked worn, but not galled or any thing. There is oil and water in the cylinders and when I cranked it over, there wasnt any real bad straks on the cylinder, indicating galled rings, if you know what I mean.
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You may have lucked out then. But you can never tell if you have bad rings until you run a compression test.
Front should always goto the front but still it should say side up on both sides. If not then you may have a set that arent side specific, the only way is to check the part numbers on them. They should both say front and this side up and that is how they should fit. I believe some even say left or right, I know Ford does that.
Front should always goto the front but still it should say side up on both sides. If not then you may have a set that arent side specific, the only way is to check the part numbers on them. They should both say front and this side up and that is how they should fit. I believe some even say left or right, I know Ford does that.
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Well, like I was saying, my main concern is for the block itself, as I am going to get some new heads cause the valve tips look worn funky, I just hope the block was not warped so I get a good seal when I put the new gaskets and heads on. As long as the block is okay, I am.................semi............happy.
It looks as though he got two drivers side gaskets......DOH!!
It looks as though he got two drivers side gaskets......DOH!!
