The open solenoid flows a lot.
Call them and ask. Does it really matter that much?

 

Keep us posted with pics in this thread so we can keep updated.

 

I will do that. I plan on getting quite a few pictures. I want removal, rebuild, before/after and everything for this.
I will post them all for you guys.

 

[QUOTE=Dragon-LS1]
I also did not have any tuning at all. I was told I didnt need it on a 125 shot.
QUOTE]

Who told you that you dont need tuning when spraying?

Not only that, but when you spray you sending all this fuel in there, your probably running super rich (or lean, i dont have much experience with N20) but I wouldnt trust the guy that said you can spray 125 shot without tuning...

 

Josh, I have some 99 heads here if you are interested. Just let me know and you can check them out. I am not sure on mileage but I think it was lower, like 30k.

 

Yes, it does matter that much. I looked at the kit, and they don't really list any specifics (suprise suprise). The nozzle looks like it has typical -3 fittings on it, and you ain't goin nowhere north of 200 with -3 lines. What we are trying to say is there might be some other root cause of your problems besides the nitrous.

Tuning isn't necessary with nitrous, but it's safe insurance. Were you on regular 93 pump gas? If you don't have alot of dough to blow, I'd recommend adding some cheap insurance to the mix. Try to spray with 100 octane. Couple bucks might have just saved that motor. I hit my stone stock LS1 with 225 several times (dual stage dry no jet, NX MAF kit jetted at 75). Tuning and good gas kept the engine alive.

 

Personally I would look into an iron block motor. Get a bare block used, get it machined (not much $), buy an eagle stroker crank (4 or 4.1 inch stroke crank for $897), eagle or comprable rods (scat 6.125 $430), and some forged pistons (Diamond 4.030 bore $590), along with misc fasteners and gaskets. You could use the L92 heads which are around $800 bucks and flow very well, get the L76 ($450+ with fuel rails and 90mm throttle by wire tb) or carb intake when they comes out, and some other misc stuff. If you plan on putting it together yourself, this could be the way to a super cheap 408+ci build up depending on stroke. If you have plenty of time I say get it torn down and let it sit and save till you have enough money to do it the way you want it done the first time. If you have plans for upgrading in the future this could be the way to go and save you the time and effort of doing all this twice.

 

All of that is way out of my price range for now.. and I need this car up and running. I have future plans.. and I dont mind tearing it all back apart when I have the cash to build it.



James.. PM sent.

I should have a lot more pictures toomoorw.. I should have it on a lift and the engine out by this weekend.

 

[QUOTE=2000 Tran Zam]Ok.. sorry. I didnt say that correctly.
I was told I didnt have to retard the timing on a 125 shot.
I knew I needed a tune. I also think I was running rich. It backfired a lot and I had horrible gas mileage.
I am going to do it correctly this time.

 

Ok.. I have been advised by an expert to get a used 6.0 iron block.
Any help on that? I need one cheap as hell and preferrably with heads.. or a bare block and then heads seperate.
Thanks, everyone.

 

Check the Performance Trucks tab up top. They usually have a few 6.0's for sale cheap.

 

Thanks man. I just started a WTB thread for it.
I didnt even know we had that as part of our site.
Thanks again.