Engine removal issues.
Really? You can lift the engine high enough and not hit the hood??? I didnt see that working when I was looking at my thirdgen...but maybe thats just the difference between the two chassis.
Justin
Justin
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
When you set the body back down, how hard is it to line up the shock tower bolts? Is it something that one person can do alone?
no problem at all, just push them into place and torque the bolts.
by the way, you can pull the tranny first and still drop from the bottom, then you can leave the slave with the body and you dont need to bleed the clutch, just the breaks.
Not going against what you just said about pulling the trans first...but doesnt that sort of go against the "easy" part of the job? I think it would be easier to pull the master cylinder and reservoir off the firewall, and hang them on the side of the trans/motor. Still no bleeding of the clutch, and you dont have to fiddle with bellhousing bolts and heavy transmissions.
Again...not dis-agreeing. I would definetly go that route if removing just the motor through the top.
Justin
Again...not dis-agreeing. I would definetly go that route if removing just the motor through the top.
Justin
Figured Ide show some pics of what I did. Before I do...I gotta state something obvious. I didnt state it in another thread I posted on on another forum. Someone jumped my crap about safety. If you drop the motor from the bottom...you should NEVER be under the car while its being supported by the hoist. You can get most of the bolts that you need to from the outside of the car. THe few things you need to get under for (driveshaft, wires, misc what nots), take care of them while the front end is supported properly. once the engine is rolled from under the car, immediatly lower the car back down onto jack stands. Duh right?? I just didnt want the same situation to brew as the other forum. That said... here are pics of my removal from the 99 and install to the 87. Install would be the same on the 99 more or less.
Now I had the front clip removed..so I lifted by the front "frame rails"... You'll most likely use the radiator support somehow. Maybe the Sway bar bracket bolts. Thats what I used on my 87..
Dolly I used. 1000lbs capacity. Nice big casters. Only $15 on sale at harbor frieght. I got two...one for each motor.
Car up...
Securing Jack stands.
And you end up with this...easily rolled around. Easily worked on. I just used a strap to hold the control arms up so I didnt destroy the brake lines. Wasnt sure if I needed them.
Now I had the front clip removed..so I lifted by the front "frame rails"... You'll most likely use the radiator support somehow. Maybe the Sway bar bracket bolts. Thats what I used on my 87..
Dolly I used. 1000lbs capacity. Nice big casters. Only $15 on sale at harbor frieght. I got two...one for each motor.
Car up...
Securing Jack stands.
And you end up with this...easily rolled around. Easily worked on. I just used a strap to hold the control arms up so I didnt destroy the brake lines. Wasnt sure if I needed them.
Prepped to go back in. Everything hooked up, ready to go.
In like butter... easiest part of the whole project.
Just lower the body slow...keep watching for prolems. If you see one..just lift the body back up. The problem I always had with motors through the top was if you saw a problem...you have a dangling motor...or motor and trans, that you have to pull back out, and put back in, etc.
Again...not proclaiming that one is better than the other. Im just sold on doing it this way... on an f-body that is.
Justin
In like butter... easiest part of the whole project.
Just lower the body slow...keep watching for prolems. If you see one..just lift the body back up. The problem I always had with motors through the top was if you saw a problem...you have a dangling motor...or motor and trans, that you have to pull back out, and put back in, etc.
Again...not proclaiming that one is better than the other. Im just sold on doing it this way... on an f-body that is.
Justin
