Engine removal issues.
I know the tranny will not be connected in my case, just to make it easier....
i am going to take my intake off first, and try to pull it with the heads on... if it wont clear then the heads are coming off, but i would really rather leave them on so i know i can have my heads on when i put my motor back together outside of the car.
i know coming out the bottom works great, but i dont have a 2 post lift in my garage
Have one person more the hoist back and raise it while another person steers the motor out of the bay.
Doing it this way allowed me to move the car around and push it back into the garage instead of it sitting in one place with no k-member or wheels.
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once the motor and tranny is free from the car and supported from the bottom with jacks, its nothing for a cherry picker to jack the car high enough to pull the motor out. if you pull the tires off and intake you can get away with pulling it out the fender well and it doesnt have to go nearly as high.

Once you get the intake, coil packs, and all of the A/C and accessories off, the motor will slide out easier if you take off the motor mount on the pass. side from both the motor and k-member and disconnect the mount from the motor on the driverside. Good luck with the bell housing bolts also. My Ypipe was the worse out of anything but then again NY is great on exhaust systems.
Last edited by Mike2000Z28; Oct 14, 2006 at 07:34 AM.
Car was totaled. airlid, intake, coil packs, anything attached to the headers or exhaust manifolds, radiator, water pump, power steering, exhaust manifolds or headers, ac, crank pulley, heads.
I pulled the trans first, then the bell housing and clutch without having to touch the y pipe.
good luck with the new setup


For all those going out the bottom DO NOT just let the struts hang by the brake lines. Tie them







