ehh the cold war wasnt won on boost, and a turbo cant tear down the berlin wall.....he was the typical down and dirty big block type of guy

personally i plan on going with a 6.0L with forged internals, nice cam and a good set of heads when the time comes....to many other things to worry about right now ....bolt ons and a nice tranny will have to do

 

well said.

 

https://www.ohioforcedinduction.com/98-02_F-body.html

is this all bolt on?
i want to go FI someday and need to rebuild my motor anyways on a budget maybe ill drop the compression now, live withit then strap a hairdryer on it later

 

yeah its a complete kit , comes with everthing you need

You will have to buy a 255lph intake pump and Injectors
A ls2 timing chain and a set of stronger valve springs , hardened pushrods would be good enough
Get it tuned and enjoy 500rwhp low boost with a stock cam with the ac blowing .

 

FI all the way.

 

well i have all that
a racetronix pump and 42lbsers and all the H/C stuff pushrods but im at like 11.3:1 when i put new pistons in i can drop to like 9.5:1. i have a tsp 233-239 113 cam though. not sure if its gonna work
i got the rest 9in drive shaft and CF DF 12 clutch so my drive line will hold and my chassis is strong but my back account isnt at the moment LOL
it sure sounds like a good kit i wonder how much boost you can turn it up to and how much my motor will take???
might have to start my own thread!!

 

I have a nice stock cam , still in my engine Ill trade you for the 233
Mightymouse made around 800rwhp on a stock cam

 

To the original poster - this is always a hot topic. Notice how many people jumped on the N2O bandwagon, when it wasn't even mentioned initially.

With proper tuning, you can have all of the benefits with very little drawback. My advice to you is this: If this is truly a daily driver in the summer, go mild with whatever you choose. Since you like the sound of a cammed LS1, but you also like the sound of the supercharger, choose both. The only reason I wouldn't recommend a turbo is their tendency to muffle the exhaust note, which might dilute the cammed sound you are after.

I would choose a custom cam with 224/230 duration on a 114 LSA - just wide enough to work with the FI, but still giving some of the lope you want. Keep your stock heads if you want, and pick the supercharger of your choice. The larger cam should lower your DCR enough that you can use 5-7 lbs of boost very safely. Depending on your tuning and whether or not you elect to use an intercooler, you may be able to squeeze more out of it.

Like anything, you can go hog wild with heads, intake, headers and exhaust + plus other upgrades. Your goal should really be to modify what's neccessary to safely and reliably use these parts (fuel pump, injectors, rear axle, suspension) Your best bet is to find a reputable shop that builds FI cars and tell them what you want.

Good Luck and enjoy!

 

I have to admit spending 13k is what I was anticipating around. Wow this turned out to be quit a debate. It seems pretty split on all motor or F/I. I am leaning in the direction of of a F/I setup.....most likely twin turbos. A couple reasons for going this route is everybody i've talked to says turbos pull like a bat out of hell and My friend Brandon has an Rx-7 that was pushing 568rwhp He said "no matter how fast I was going or what gear I was in it didn't stop pulling". He had to sell the parts from is car so its not that fast anymore Not to mention I love how turbos sound. I am willing to sacrifce my exhaust note for the sound of my twins spoolong up. I have also thought about a Procharger casue they do sound BAD *** as well but im hooked on turbos. As far as nitrous goes i've never liked it, always been afraid of blowing up my motor.

 

I've read that twins in a street car can spool faster than traction can accomodate. I'm sure thats somewhat adjustable by the tune and weight of your right foot ;o)

 

I'd love to do FI but there are 2 things that keep me away.

High cost, and extra weight on the front end of the car. They are already front heavy, and it just makes matters worse.

 

Yeah I thought traction might be an issue but i dont have a lead foot just a steel one What about my suspension and clutch options??? I was thinking of a Textrila or spec 3??? I hope to get my project started soon...any ideas of companys that could do this for me? Thanks again everybody I appreciate it.

 

im skipping to the end. turbo charge and forge your 346, turbo cam, ported LS6 heads, fuel system and crank the boost up! get an electronic boost controller, hp tuners on a laptop, get two maps made that you can up load, street map low boost, race map high boost.

i had a P1 blower, the power for the street sucks, you dont make power until peak. my LS2 403 will make more power hp and torque from 3k to redline under the curve as well, than the P1 @ 8psi on a 346. even then the motor only lasted 2k miles.

im going motor and spray cause i already tried a sc and didnt like it. if this doesnt work the way i want it to APS just released the C5 twin turbo kit for $7995, i might go that route or FFHP single turbo T76 street kit.

 

i just read this last page, their are plenty of T76 single turbo kits for F-bodys that can support 700 hp that is a **** ton of power for the street, add a small shot of nitrous on top of that and your killing supras. i saw a 600 whp single turbo TA killing 600-800 hp supra's last year, he would hook up and take off like a jet. if i were to get a F-body i know i would go this route, most likely a forged 408, LPE turbo cam, ported LS6 heads, ported fast 90/90 and a single T76 turbo set up running 14 psi full time and of course a fuel system, then start working on the other things that are surely to go, rear end, tranny, upgrade suspension, all top quality used parts that are in good shape. id buy a used kit off someone for half of what they paid for it. turbo's can be rebuilt or bought new if you needed to get one, if the FMIC and all the piping and hot parts are mint, why not? save some money this way. just my opinion.

 

Turbo - hands down sick sick power with LS-1's fueling them....

 

Yeah 700 hp is enough to boggle my brain I will forge out my motor and do a turbo.....now im thinking of..... single or twins? what would be more reliable?? Is LPE lingenfelter??? I have been thinking alot buying a used turbo kit and having the turbo rebuilt......Anybody have one for sale??? Which company has the bestsetup for turbos for the F-body?

 

if you add 400 rwhp to your current stock ride your building a death trap . I just got done doing some highspeed runs in mine and these cars handle like **** above 100mph even going straight . stock brakes fade QUICK . What im trying to recommend is beef up the rest of your car first .

 

Ultra-Z I'm one of the few lucky incon twin turbo kit owners so I don't research which kits are out and which ones are good so I can't help you there. Reliability wise some might say singles since there is only turbo to worry about, but I think a new twin kit is just as reliable. People with twin kits worry about one turbo dying out before the other one, but that normally doesn't happen. Chances are if one starts to have issues after x amount of miles when you look at the other one, chances are it needs to be rebuilt or replaced as well anyways. Unless one of the turbos was messed up to begin with and it dies after only like 2,000 miles. Clutch I would only recommend a mcleod twin disk. A lot of people use textralia but I haven't heard of to many guys over 500 rwhp using them so I would stay away. I now lots of guys with specs that have blown up. One guys blew up on the dyno, it came into the drivers side and hacked off the pedals and almost the dyno operators foot and then lodged into the side of the car. Suspension really depends on what you will be doing with your car. Will you mainly be street driving, autocrossing, road racing, or drag racing and how much of each. My suspension is setup for road racing since thats what I like to do. I take may car to sebring and run the hell out of it using r compound road race tires(kumhov710's) and on the street I run pirellis up front and bfgoodrich drag radials on the rear. Traction will be an issue. Thats why I drive on the street with drag radials on the back. I can't use street tires or they will break loose. LPE is lingenfelter.

 

1. fix your car. ive cruised for over 800 miles out west in triple digits without issue. if its that bad somethings wrong.


2. IM the one building a deathtrap here.. a 3rdgen convertible with a LS1 turbo.

3.. WTF would you expect him to "beef up"?? the brakes? lol.. thats the only "beefing up" i can think of from what you mentioned... the LCAs, chassis itself, ect doesnt need beefing to be stable at speed... all you need is decent bushings everywhere, non-worn out strut/shocks, reasonable tires, and everything balanced... i wouldnt expect you to be road racing ten tenths on the street in triple digits, unles you have a deathwish, so what are you getting at?




Ultra-Z:
if you can afford it, forced induction is the way to go. hands down.

but you dont need diff heads, cam, intake, rails, trans rebuild, aftermarket bellhousing, or aftermarket driveshaft.... sure you're limited somewhere in the 800hp range... but thats more then enough for awhile. lol.

 

Thanks for all that info! Most of my driving would be street driving, Tho I do like going up to BIR (brainerd international raceway) and driving the hell out of my car, I hate quarter mile drags so I wouldn't be doing that. If i had 650-700 hp id wanna drive more than 10secs at the raceway. As far as brakes go i'll be buying Wilwood for front and back, i can get a great deal through a guy in my mnfbody.com car club. As far as suspension goes i've got a stage 2 kit from SLP. What is Incons website? I seen to hear nothing but awesome reviews about them. Can incon forge my engine and install my twin setup?? Or which company could I ship my car and have it done?? Anybody have a deal on MCleod twin disk kit??? Can you imagine this car with twins