yea if you buy a forged shortblock from a sponsor your going to pay top dollar. if you got money falling out of your *** you can pay for stuff like that. I dont, so I look for ways to get the job done & save cash too. I already had my engine builder take my stock bottom end, install new mahle forged pistons & rings, eagle rods & new bearings for roughly $2000. I ran it with my twin turbo at 12 psi & 18 psi and it works flawlessly. i sold that setup and I just dropped another stock ls1 motor off yesterday to get the same build as my old setup had.

If you have a good machinist & engine builder near you, you can save alot of money on your forged short block and no shipping charges either.

 

Well said....I dont have endless amounts of money either. Thats a great price for those items and work. Now to find a good machinist and engine builder in MN........Were you also running different heads wit your setup? AFR 225's?

 

nope, all stock heads, cam LS6 intake etc. I had hardened pushrods but i dont think those are needed.

do a search of "rice etr" he's running the truck manifold kit w/ T76 turbo and making 638rwhp on 93 octane, this is on a all stock LS1 including the bottom end except for the TR227 cam. he ran a 10.88@133

 

another vote for turbo!! That is what I am doing.

 

did hi lfow ever finish gettin yuor ****?

 

Amen, brother. These two lurk in my garage.

 

fi is going to run you 3,4 times as much as a No2 set-up.

 

Im at 433rwhp, all motor. Mods in sig. Not a big number by any stretch of the imagination, but Ive also spent less than 5K. and she still turns heads. Just my .02. If I had the money, Id go Turbo NO DOUBT ABOUT IT.

 

If you add up heads/cam/intake/nitrous/supporting mods you will find that its around 1/2 of what a heads/cam/intake/forced induction/supporting mods will cost you. No where near 3-4 times as much unless you go really, really ridiculous with your setup.

 

Well i am going to have to disagree with your statement
1500 No2 system vs. 6500 base turbo system
No2 fuel sysem vs. FI fuel system double the price, easy
No2 set up labor vs FI set up labor........

Similar cost in the basic build of the engine( but the FI engine in general will cost slightly more )

I dont think i went Ridiculous with my set up i do have alot of money in it but i could have easily drop more coin .

So i stand frim on MY belief that going FI is going to run you 3-4 times as much as a No2 set up , check out the FI section and even do a search as the question has been asked many many times before

 

bottom line is if you are going to build an FI engine it is going to be a lower comp engine and will need an FI unit of some kind to perform. ( mine is 9-1 , how do you think it will run with out air bring forced down its throat?)
An No2 Engine can run a natural comp and run very strong, throw in the addition of No2 and its a screamer, best bang for the buck.

 

Yeah, you don't need a rearend, driveshaft, etc.. if you're going to roll race all the time. You don't need a wideband either, but I think it would be a good investment on my new shortblock. You don't need a built transmission either, but I like to drive my car hard and don't drive like a *****.

Well the point is that forced induction is going to cost more money then some people think, once you've actually got it all together 100%. If I was spending that much $, I would'nt want any less than 700rwhp on pump gas.

 

written like A true gearhead

If i did it all over again i would go No2 and save alot of money.
FI is going to cost more than you think , and if its a Turbo you are looking into , check into the FI section and get the real blood sweat and tears stories.
Any of them is worth it but if you went N/A or No2 besides the cost you will be driving it soon rather than later.

 

I agree with the comment that this has been debated many times before. But I can help but join in when I feel there are some glaring inaccuracies.

1. I'm running FI kits on stock compression LS1's. Yes, mine are running "only" 8 and 9 PSI respectively and I really can't go higher without compromising safety and reliability (that could be debated too, but I'll let crazies up the boost on stock motors). At my modest boost levels, I've got more than enough power to ANNIHILATE 95% of any jokers that try to screw with me. If someone is shooting for single digit Quarter mile ET's out of a boosted LSX motor, hell yeah get an iron block and run 9:1 or 9.5:1 compression. However don't say you can't or shouldn't run a moderate FI kit on a stock LS1.

2. Both the Vortech and ATI kits come with very detailed instructions. Someone who is of average/average plus technical skills... who is careful and meticulous and takes their time... who is willing to call tech support once or twice during the install... can put either of these kits on their car at home. No need for most enthusiasts to pay a shop. The Vortech kit comes with a pretty accurate tune in a Superchips handheld, but the ATI kit owner will need to pay a local tuner for a PCM/Wideband/Dyno tune.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/567592-real-price-forced-induction.html

 

That's a good writeup and I think peeps considering FI should read it. However, it's going to boil down to the owner's intention for his/her car. Depending on the role they envision, several of his "required" mods become "optional".

My '01 SS is an example of doing little more than installing the Vortech kit and leaving it alone. Eventually I installed an SLP Y-pipe, Spectacle Solutions Air Lid, and the dual-dual was modified at the same time as the blower install. The muffler was removed and replaced with pipe (actually looks and sounds good). After the lid and Y-pipe, I got a Granatelli MAF because it brought the A/F back down to where it needs to be (was a little lean with the stock MAF) and I didn't want to completely retune the PCM.

With very few mods beyond the Vortech kit, the car put down 463/437 at the wheels. This is through stock exhaust manifolds and factory cats!

After running the car for a couple years as above, a SPEC Stage III clutch and pressure plate were installed as added insurance. Add in the shift light and that is the grand total of all the mods on the car.

I will freely admit that my '01 SS is more of a cruiser than anything else. It has never gone to the track (still has the stock 10-bolt), but it may have, hypothetically, annihilated a few guys who thought they were fast in highway roll races.

Now, I am NOT trying to say that FI is cheaper than Nitrous. It is NOT, in general at least. However, it is very easy to spend thousands on a nitrous system. Direct port plumbing, auxillary fuel cells, big fuel pumps, dual bottles, billit bottle brackets, blown down tubes, bottle heaters, programmable nitrous controllers, remote openers, etc. etc. etc. A racer can spend serious cash on a nitrous system. I've got a close friend with ridiculous $ tied up in his nitrous stuff. Yeah, he's probably going to have a high 8 sec. car, but the bottom line is there are many ways to break the bank on Nitrous.

 

on street, its all about boost. NA is great till you start making a lot of power. Then it gets peaky, high revving, unreliable etc.

 

ok so 550 RWHP through a stock T56, 10 bolt and stock suspension......good luck. plan on another 6k in supporting mods........

 

I plan on having 650 to 750rwhp with my setup and yeah I know its going to be expensive thats ok, I can afford it.........cause I recieved an inheritance, it wasnt much but its ALL going to my motor, trans, and rear end.

 

well, as long as you're being responsible