debate: hardened pushrods, or non hardened pushrods
#21
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Don't fall in to the trap of buying a non-hardened push rod because you want it to be the weak link in the valvetrain. That just isn't how it is supposed to work. The pushrods were never meant to be used in that fashion, and should not be.
If you hit the rev-limiter, you aren't doing any damage, unless you set your rev-limit to 8k RPMs or so. The rev-limiter is doing just that - limiting the engine RPMs. If you mechanically over-rev the engine, you either need to learn how to shift, or take it easy on the shifts. That is purely user error.
If you hit the rev-limiter, you aren't doing any damage, unless you set your rev-limit to 8k RPMs or so. The rev-limiter is doing just that - limiting the engine RPMs. If you mechanically over-rev the engine, you either need to learn how to shift, or take it easy on the shifts. That is purely user error.
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
hmmm... alot of good points, and mixed opinions in here...
those of you who say i would need longer rods, you mean longer than 7.400???
arrestmered99z28- you say when its deflecting it is slowly bending, thus reducing the length of the pushrod and reducing airflow and leaving power on the table... but wouldnt you hear it ticking when it bends enough to shorten the length? if i were to run stockers, i would just wait for it to start ticking, when it gets too short and starts tapping the rocker, then replace them.
both sides have good points, keep them coming guys
those of you who say i would need longer rods, you mean longer than 7.400???
arrestmered99z28- you say when its deflecting it is slowly bending, thus reducing the length of the pushrod and reducing airflow and leaving power on the table... but wouldnt you hear it ticking when it bends enough to shorten the length? if i were to run stockers, i would just wait for it to start ticking, when it gets too short and starts tapping the rocker, then replace them.
both sides have good points, keep them coming guys
Sorry for the long *** post
AJ
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Originally Posted by NBMgreg
really?!?! i have always thought that stock ls1 pushrods are 7.4, and ls6 uses 7.35... hmmm... guess you learn something everyday.
On the subject of hardened PRs.
For mild cams/springs, I go with stock PRs. The stockers aren't going to deflect during normal driving with 918's (on a small cam) or stock springs. If you mechanically over-rev, I'd rather be replacing pushrods than valves and pistons.
Once you go to a bigger cam (one that requires more seat pressure) then you definately want to use hardened pushrods. The amount of force required to lift the valve from the seat can cause deflection during normal driving.
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dangit, everybody has different opinions, lol... seems like both work well for certain people.
FWIW, i am running a g5x1, 228/232 .588 .574 114lsa, and 918 springs.
any more opinions?
FWIW, i am running a g5x1, 228/232 .588 .574 114lsa, and 918 springs.
any more opinions?
#26
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You'll hear a lot of differing opinions on the topic...just like you would about "which cam should I get?" I personally would opt for hardened pushrods for valvetrain stability. After seeing some high speed videos of a valvetrain in action, it needs all the help it can get.
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ya, the only thing thats making me lean towards hardened ones is from the deflection like some people were mentioning, if i ran stock, and they were deflecting... i could be leaving power on the table by not opening the valves all the way, and i would never know it.