Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I hear ya on not having one cam to fit all needs. Normally though it seems it's a lot harder to pick out a cam when it's a DD but in this cause the street manners of the cam I'm not to concerned about. Everybodies going to have their take on how streetable something is as well. Considering I've taken the street manners out of the mix I hoped it would help some.

THe G5X3 and G5X4, I've seen them when I'm reading around, are they known to be a midrange and upper end puller like the T-rex is?

I'm also curious, that camshaft that you spoke of above, the high lift T-Rex, the specs on it are different than the one listed on Thunder Racing's site. What type of power band would a person be looking at with the high lift T-Rex you speak of above? Would it be in the 3K to 7K RPM range?

Thanks!

PREDATOR-Z

Yes depending on supporting mods of course.
I would call it T-Rex (V06) >>> Version 2006
The only difference is a LSK intake lobe, this in theory should increase the intake charge potential and combined with the LSK ramp profile, give better midrange pull earlier than the actual T-Rex
basically following the recent trend of using LSK on intake instead of the XE-R.
All the other cams being LGM/Futral/TSP, have had similar revisions, even Thunder but they like XFI lobes.

Maybe someone will have the Cahoonas to try one and give us more feedback.

note that I would recommend Morel lifters, PRC platinum springs and adjustable rockers such as Jessels with that cam.
All said it is a mean **** on paper

25.5>26* overlap at .050 on a 110 LSA (that is thumping )

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

I missed the vehicle that its going into in your signature. With that gearing and your projected weight, you'll have much more tolerance for a soft bottom end. If the final setup doesn't have a softspot that comes on like a lightswitch at 3000-3500 rpm, it might make your car easier to drive on a road course.

The contradiction is much greater in a 3400-3500 lb F-body with stock 3.42 or lower numeric gears. I think you'll be happy with the cam PREDATOR-Z is recommending.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Is there any place I can read about what the different ramp profiles are and what they are all about? I might be in the FAQ for Cams in this section but I don't recall seeing it when I browsed through it.



Is that what you would recommend for any cam swap or especially for this one for it's an aggressive cam? I was thinking of doing springs, retainers and pushrods while doing the cam swap is why I ask.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I left out the car that I was putting it in so that was my bad. I was thinking that with it being lighter like you speak of that giving up some low end shouldn't be to much of an issue but I gotta get it running in stock form first. Just starting my research on what mods I want to do to it later now.

I also was thinking of maybe doing a single turbo on the car right away as well and just not revving the car as high and making more midrange and upper end power. The money I'd spend on custom headers (currently mocking up C5 Corvette manifolds for they are cheap, they fit, and they will look good for the emissions tester so I can drive it on the street) I could put a lot of that towards a turbo which will give a lot more power than a good set of headers will. Don't know if I want to step into the turbo world though just yet for I don't think I have the pocket book for it.

If a person were to go with a turbo set up are there cams that a person should be looking into that cater well towards forced induction on a LS1?

PREDATOR-Z

Turbo + stock heads >> usualy reverse split (224/220)
Tubo with ported heads >> simetrical (no split) (224/224)

Should have negative overlap and right VEs to prevent bleeding off (usualy slightly intake biased from TDC <~2*> and kinda late EVO <to delay trq output in band>, since turbos make power when spooling and that requires rpm)

I thought you might put a LS1 in your TA

This is what I would do if it was my Hybrid:

LS6 shortblock, AFR 205s (milled .030), 223/227 114+1 or +2 (LSK lobed), matching components, custom headers (long), ported 90/90.
That would truely be about as ALL AROUND as you can get in that light mobile.
You could drag, drift, Autox, shoot; take it on a Sunday cruise if you like.
Properly setup and tuned that combo is worth 450+++rwhp (can hit 480+ if you do it all the way)

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

I would say the X3 is considered more of a mid and upper end cam. The X4 and Trex are considered to be upper end only. The one time I actually saw a Trex on the dyno, it made 450rwhp, but the torque was REALLY soft. Way too low.

yak

iTrader: (15)

I would say that on 100 stock heads the t rex pulls harder. bt, if you mill stock heads 20 thousanths and notch your pustons (to get your dcr up a little) I think the x4 would pull harder.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

True. The Trex I saw put down 450hp had heads milled something like .070". They were CUT. He had forged pistons with huge valve reliefs to compensate. But my point is that even with some crazy high compression the cam just wasn't making much torque. Although what it was making was holding out for a long time.

PREDATOR-Z

That is weird. A .070 mill would create all sorts of problems:
> Intake not alligning
> Loosing flow dramatically
for exemple

Also:

T-Rex with Forged 347 would only need 58cc chamber, .040 gasket, .01 pistons out of hole and 4cc valve reliefs for a 11.43 SCR and 8.58 DCR.

A .070 mill doesn't make sense, unless he took a 6.0 head and milled 14cc to get 58 cc, which still indicates this guy doesn't know what he is doing

Bottom line folks, T-Rex is a drag cam and a good one properly setup.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Um, yeah. That's what I'm saying. You hit the nail on the head, Predator-Z. He didn't know they were milled until he got them. It was one of those deals where the heads were so cheap it was worth a shot. And he DID INDEED have intake problems... had to egg out the holes in the intake to get them to line up. And the loss of flow would explain the poor torque numbers too.

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

i think im gonna do it PREDATOR, i'll even name it after you...do you think the 3800 stall will be enuff? flycut on stock heads? how much?

PREDATOR-Z

3800 stall will work but for max track performance a 4400>4800 would be better.

Like i said, even Thunder advises to measure PTV on stock heads to make sure. If you see various T-Rex cam cards, they are not all the same comming from the grinder. Little variations.
I strongly recommend Morel lifters and PRC Platinum springs; stock rockers will work but adjustable rockers will allow preload tuning. So if the heads are off, some milling and flycut can be done.
Ideally for a stronger setup, Stage 1 (stock valved or 2.02) PRC 243 ported heads would shine.

Guys just be aware that at these duration this is a max effort setup and not for the faint of heart, do it right or avoid it is my advice.

The "M" cam "Megasaurus cam"

nexvctm2001ss

iTrader: (8)

G5X3....that cam is a ****

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

i'll let you know how it goes. how much should the heads be milled?

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Hmm, I'll have to do more research on that cam.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

How about the FM15 cam from Futural? I saw a video of a Firehawk with the FM15 in it messing around and that cam seemed like it offered a nice midrange and upper end pull for that car.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Been driving mine for less than a week... I'm dying to find something to pick on.