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Broke bolt in block

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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:38 AM
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Default Broke bolt in block

One of my head bolts broke off in the block and ideas on how to get it out? Would and EZ out work?
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 98 T/A raptor
One of my head bolts broke off in the block and ideas on how to get it out? Would and EZ out work?
Hpeened to a buddy of mine. It was an ARP bolt too

He was lucky enough that the bolt broke off in a somewhat jagged pattern so he just put it back in and fin-angled it out.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 01:09 AM
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an easyout will work. do you have arp studs or gm bolts?
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 02:45 AM
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I've never had a head bolt break off, but i have broken an intake bolt. What i have had the best luck with is the Craftsman drill bits. They have a reverse drill bit on one end and the apropriate sized EZ out on the other end.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 04:01 AM
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They were ARP Head Bolt's. They are replacing it for free though. I will be taking the heads off in the spring to replace the heads for some patriot performance stage 2's and I will be getting stud's next time.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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TTT, I had one break too. My dad was doing it to the torque spec ARP gives, with w30 oil. It was only the third bolt. Hole was cleaned with air prior to this. Torque was verified with different torque wrench, what could be happening that they are breaking on people, aren't they a lot stronger than stock? TIA,
John
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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uhh.. i had one break(first motor) and it had to be drilled out and a huge stud was put in it's place by LME.
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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Well an Easy out broke on it to, Ive got to get it EDM'd out. Id still like some input as to why this happend if anyone has any. Thanks
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:02 AM
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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Did you remove all teh water from the blind bolt holes? Sometimes its just a matter of luck.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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The other possibility is it bottom out in the block. This is a possible if you milled the heads a good amount. It's this reason that I went with a set of ARP studs rather than bolts. I was tired of the pain in the *** torque to yeild GM bolts, so I bought a set of ARP studs to avoid that problem.

I thought I had read somewhere on here that you need to use a shim or washer to ensure the proper length when using the bolts on a head that's been milled. One easy way to check is compared the GM tty bolts length vs. the ARP's length.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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I have ARP bolts, heads milled .040" and .040" gaskets... I haven't had any trouble at all.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 01:56 PM
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Yeah, an update, A shop used EDM (electro spark used to accurately corrode bolt) and they got through the bolt, and inserted an easy out type tool and the bolt still wouldn't budge. Its gotta have something caught in the threads or something. Its in there good. They are gonna try drilling it with a huge drill press.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 2KThunder
Yeah, an update, A shop used EDM (electro spark used to accurately corrode bolt) and they got through the bolt, and inserted an easy out type tool and the bolt still wouldn't budge. Its gotta have something caught in the threads or something. Its in there good. They are gonna try drilling it with a huge drill press.
where, or who did you take it to?
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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Happened to me too.







keep plugging...it took us several hours and quite a stack of money to get that thing out. Good Luck

Last edited by ExceSSive; Jan 9, 2007 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:17 AM
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Damn what a nightmare, lucky for you the shop is doing it. I would flipped my lid if i would have broken a head bolt Never even heard of this happening
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