01CaMMMaro

iTrader: (25)

Ive been hangin out in the internal engine forums lately and have been reading alot about cams/rockers/rods/springs etc. i have a few questions about a build that im looking into doing next summer, or when i get the money lol.

1. Is the lift on the valves suppose to be the same as the lift on the rockers? Ive been told that my desired 400hp i wont have to change rockers or valves but ive also read that you need to change rockers when putting in a cam.

2. Im looking into getting the MS3 237/242 .603/.609" camshaft and was wondering parts i need to relate with this camshaft as in how i would need to match it up with heads or rods/rod length or rockers or springs?

3. What do the pistons need to relate to besides the size of the machining to be done?

4. I will be using a stock crank so can i just use stock piston to crank connecting rods? Im going to have a block machined but nothing crazy, gonna get some .010" over. Just wanting to get around 400hp so I dont think ill have to change my pushrods or rocker arms... hopefully.

5. basically what can i use stock as far as rods/connecting rods/pushrods/valves/hydraulic rollers/ bascially all the connecting stuff? I do plan on puting aftermarket valve springs on.

00454sscamaro

wow this for real?

your in texas so
1-5 drive your car to texas speed and tell them you want 400hp.

1stz06

iTrader: (18)

May God bless you son. I don't mean to be rude, but keep hanging around the internal dept here and trying reading what other post. I would also take the advise that Mr. 00454SScamaro is throwing at you.

Best wishes,
J.R.

1999 SS

iTrader: (3)

if you want 400hp whether its at the crank or the rear wheel you wont need to do any machining to the block and should have no problem using stock rocker arm.
the only "machining" you might need to do is on the heads if you decide to keap your stock ones; so they flow better and so you can put bigger valves in them or possible notch your pistons so your valves dont make contact with them when your using that big of a cam.

with that cam to get 400 hp should be real easy. ls6 intake manifold (which you might already have), ported throtle body(or aftermarket), ported heads(or aftermarket), long tube headers with larger y-pipe and cat back and an ecm tune. with those upgrades you would probably be at least 400 rear wheel hp.

01CaMMMaro

iTrader: (25)

Thank you very much for some GOOD advice that actually helps me instead of just telling me to read more... I read alot but im just trying to get these numbers down, simple as that. Everyone doesnt know everything... deal with it. and im not about to go to TSP and pay a butt load to install parts that i can install myself.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

You don't have to change your rockers. The stockers will hold a lot of power. If you have a smaller cam however (216/220) you could technically change the ratio of the rockers and it will change the valve events of the cam.

Good choice on cam, but I hope that you have the supporting mods for it, such as; Intake/headers/catback/all free mods/Air Lid/UD pulley...ect. You will want to get some 7.400 hardened/chromoly pushrods, any dual spring (PRC, Comp, Patriot) The Comp is really high priced, and the other two do the same thing. The other thing you might want to consider is a new oil pump. Doesnt necessarily have to be a ported one, but a stock LS6 will work fine. Most likely the springs will come with good retainers if you get them from Patriot. Don't forget a crank bolt too. I think that they are around 6$. You will need to replace it anytime you remove a stock bolt. I hear that you can reuse an ARP one though, but they are so cheap, why not replace it for better sleep at night.

Depends on what kind of head you are running. If you stick with the stock head and stock head gasket you will be ok running the MS3 without reliefs. If you are running a smaller chamber, like I said...depending on what manufacturer, you wil need valve reliefs if the combustion chamber is less in most cases. But, that all depends on the valve angles of the head you run.

I think that you are mixing up the top and bottom end of the motor. That's ok. You said you want to learn, and that is what I am trying to help you do. Stock crank and connecting rods can hold more power than you are going to make N/A on a 346cid. Now, the rod bolts however are the weak point in this case. If you are going to use that MS3 to the full-on potential you are going to want a nice set of rod bolts. Katech and ARP make some really strong bolts. But, if you are going to have the block all the way dis-assembled. Are you planning on running forged rods and pistons?


Well valves can stay stock. Depends on how hardcore you are wanting to go with this setup. You can leave the bottom end alone all together if you so desired. If you are having the block machined, then I would personally run a forged setup. You are already in there, so why not? But that all depends like I said, how hardcore are you wanting to go. I assume by hydraulic rollers you mean lifters. I would change those out with a stock OEM replacement. Make sure that the lash is set correctly if you chose to run something like the Comp R's though.

I think that is about all I can think of right now. Let me know if you have anymore questions about this crap and I will tell you everything I know about it. Plus you are only a few miles down the road from me, so if you need help with any of it....you know where to find it.

Jordan