View Poll Results: better head??
PRC 5.3 stage 2.5
73
60.83%
Patriot "ls6 style" stage 2
47
39.17%
Voters: 120. You may not vote on this poll
PRC vs. Patriot??
12-04-2006, 10:35 PM
#21
TECH Apprentice
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Not trying to thread steal, but Predator-Z what heads do you think would best compliment my TSP 233/239, the PRC LS6 or the 5.3 2.5's or diff.? And setup how... CC, valve size?
12-16-2006, 12:10 PM
#24
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The PRC stage 1's would probably work out great if you ran a thinner gasket for better quench and compression.
The 5.3L heads will work great as well, I probably would go with the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads. 1199 assembled w/ new stainless valves is awesome!!
The 5.3L heads will work great as well, I probably would go with the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads. 1199 assembled w/ new stainless valves is awesome!!
12-16-2006, 01:33 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Zach@Texas-Speed
The PRC stage 1's would probably work out great if you ran a thinner gasket for better quench and compression.
The 5.3L heads will work great as well, I probably would go with the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads. 1199 assembled w/ new stainless valves is awesome!!
The 5.3L heads will work great as well, I probably would go with the PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L heads. 1199 assembled w/ new stainless valves is awesome!!
supporting mods would be
ls6 intake
tsp headers
underdrive pulley
tsp tune
clutch
and is there some sort of package deal yall can do for heads/cam/headers/tune????
thanx
mike
12-16-2006, 01:35 PM
#26
Originally Posted by dazman
what head would need to be ran with the ms4?, does any flycutting need to be done?
supporting mods would be
ls6 intake
tsp headers
underdrive pulley
tsp tune
clutch
and is there some sort of package deal yall can do for heads/cam/headers/tune????
thanx
mike
supporting mods would be
ls6 intake
tsp headers
underdrive pulley
tsp tune
clutch
and is there some sort of package deal yall can do for heads/cam/headers/tune????
thanx
mike
12-16-2006, 01:44 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by N4cer
Nobody can tell you if you need to flycut without knowing what compression ratio SCR you are wanting to use to reach your desired DCR. And don't be stupid enough to let flycutting stop you from properly building your motor. It's cheap and fast and simple and well worth it.
thanx
mike
12-16-2006, 10:59 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Blown04Z06
i think you should run the PRC stg1 LS6 heads for less than a G.. why are you not considering those instead of these other 2?
I had a set of Patriots. They had an "unusual" problem and I had to pay out the *** for labor for them to be sent back for another set.
Granted, Gunnar was awesome and took care of the situation. It still doesn't change the fact that I was out hundreds of dollars.
On my next LS1, it'll be PRC for sure. Actually, probably a high end head. w/e im getting
btwn the 2, PRC.
12-16-2006, 11:19 PM
#29
Originally Posted by dazman
ok, my goal is to have at least a 11:1 compression motor with the best prc heads and ms4. is all i need for flycutting a drill, two cutter heads and the shaft??
thanx
mike
thanx
mike
12-17-2006, 09:26 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by N4cer
Plus feeler gauges, and an old head to use to guide the cutter.
what type of feeler gauges? the ones with like 100 little slivers of metal that you can add up to the size you need??
and do you know if there is any type of site that sort of explains it step by step, or is it just sort of self explanatory after you get into it?
thanx!
mike
12-17-2006, 01:28 PM
#32
The slivers of metal to measure thin increments. Yes. Or the nickel is fine too.
It's self-explanatory. Piston to TDC. Tool on head. Gasket, then head on block. Rest cutter on piston, then lift collar desired depth from top of valve guide (that's where the feeler guages come in. Lock the collar and spin the drill. Shop-vac out, and we like to use ether (starter fluid) to clean it out good. Move to next piston.
It's self-explanatory. Piston to TDC. Tool on head. Gasket, then head on block. Rest cutter on piston, then lift collar desired depth from top of valve guide (that's where the feeler guages come in. Lock the collar and spin the drill. Shop-vac out, and we like to use ether (starter fluid) to clean it out good. Move to next piston.
12-17-2006, 01:47 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by N4cer
The slivers of metal to measure thin increments. Yes. Or the nickel is fine too.
It's self-explanatory. Piston to TDC. Tool on head. Gasket, then head on block. Rest cutter on piston, then lift collar desired depth from top of valve guide (that's where the feeler guages come in. Lock the collar and spin the drill. Shop-vac out, and we like to use ether (starter fluid) to clean it out good. Move to next piston.
It's self-explanatory. Piston to TDC. Tool on head. Gasket, then head on block. Rest cutter on piston, then lift collar desired depth from top of valve guide (that's where the feeler guages come in. Lock the collar and spin the drill. Shop-vac out, and we like to use ether (starter fluid) to clean it out good. Move to next piston.
12-17-2006, 01:53 PM
#34
You're pushing the tool down. That's why you move the collar up the guide... It stops the tool's downward movement at a set depth.
When you do it, you'll be amazed how easy it is. I WASTED an entire heads/cam setup and 6 months of bugging people trying to be a vagina and not flycut. I didn't have a clue how easy it was. So after deciding I needed to change setups, I decided to do it right or not at all. I refuse to be one of these idiots who is spending all that money and then wondering why it sucks. Plan once, and do it right.
You'll see how easy it is once you do it. And if you need a dummy head, I can sell you an old one for $50. It's one of the old 99-00 heads. 853 or whatever the casting number was. It's a leftover, since I gave my other one (along with my Isky tool) to my tuner since he helped with my build.
When you do it, you'll be amazed how easy it is. I WASTED an entire heads/cam setup and 6 months of bugging people trying to be a vagina and not flycut. I didn't have a clue how easy it was. So after deciding I needed to change setups, I decided to do it right or not at all. I refuse to be one of these idiots who is spending all that money and then wondering why it sucks. Plan once, and do it right.
You'll see how easy it is once you do it. And if you need a dummy head, I can sell you an old one for $50. It's one of the old 99-00 heads. 853 or whatever the casting number was. It's a leftover, since I gave my other one (along with my Isky tool) to my tuner since he helped with my build.
12-19-2006, 11:04 AM
#35
just an update.. Im the one that started this thread.I ordered the PRC's and Im very happy with them I made 411rwhp and 372rwtq N/A and 550rwhp and 538rwtq on a 150 shot and thats with a A4 with a 3800 converter and 4.10 gears..my tuner said that if it had been a M6 it would have been around 450-460 NA
