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How the HELL do you get a rod knock from changing oil?

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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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Default How the HELL do you get a rod knock from changing oil?

Quiet as a mouse till I changed it!! Not a good endorsement for royal purple, WTF?????????????????????????????????? ****, why dont someone just bend me over and ram my *** with a cactus, please, just do it and get it over with! Oh, wait, I think it has just been done to the tune of $3k.

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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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Was it starved at all before you started it back up, or did you prime it before starting it again?
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 07:24 PM
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Filled up the filter with oil and started it up just like you normaly change the oil every time. Oil guage came right up in 1-2 seconds too. This is on a 98 with a 2k engine, so, guages shoulda been correct. Guess its time to get that block I got from you prepped. Fawk, I wanted that for another project.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Could it be a collapsed hydraulic lifter?

Does it ever go away?
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:24 PM
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That's weird. I'd pull the valve covers and check the easy valvetrain stuff before I'd contribute it to a rod knock. Good thing you got a backup now though.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc99SS
Could it be a collapsed hydraulic lifter?

Does it ever go away?
Havnt had it running long enough to notice, but, for now I would have to say no. I am pretty fed up with this thing and dont care for it much so I have had it parked the rest of the day. Changed the oil at 3:00, oil bucket split in two, so, spent the next 1/2 hour soaking up 5qts of oil, then started it up to go get something to eat and clack/tick/tap, (combine them), away. I just went 1 mile down the road to eat and the power windows would not roll down, either of them, so, I parked, got some food, came back and ate. Went out an hour later and put the stock stereo back in after tearng it apart to fix a button, started it up and the clack/tick/taping contiues.

I have never really heard LS1 knocks or taps, but, when I go from side to side, it seems omni directional. It sounds more pronounced if I shove my ear under the drivers side front tire, but, still not the useual rod knock sound like that on the first gen motors.

How much will it raise my insurance to go full coverage and then take a trip to the wild side of town? <red camaro>
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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About 4 years ago I had a similar experience with Mobile1 10w30 oil after I had been using Castrol GTX 10w30. After about 3 hours of run time on the oil I drained it out and put the Castrol GTX 10w30 back in the car and the “knock” was gone.

John
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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a noisey LS1?!?!?! i've never heard such a thing..

try changin back to what you were using...see what happens.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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had the same problem with a gen 1 chevy, turned out it was the oil filter, was a fram, changed to an ACdelco, and no problem.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:15 PM
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well, I dont know what was in there because it was in there before I got the car. I DO know, however, they used a black WIX filter. He did say something abut synthetics and made it a point to only use synthetic, for whatever reason that was!?
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:16 PM
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what kind of oil/filter you had in it before the change
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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WIX are good fiters, but if the previous owner didnt change the oil frequently, the new oil regardless of brand would clean the engine and reveal any problems, hopefully this isnt the case,hopefully its a different noise that mimmiks a bad engine. Like exhuast leak arking plug wires. hopefully
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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But the worst hate to say may be a bearing or very bad piston slap, but I've had a spun main bearing and had oil pressure. but a bad bearing has a "chirp" to it, some times switching to dino based oil,and a tad heavier oil quites a engine, so if you put a 0-20, switch to a 10-30or hievier dino oil, synthitics are good but not always needed
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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Well, like I said, I do know it had a black WIX filter in there. I replaced all that with royal purple 15w 40 and a pure1 filter. Now, it was a nice 60 degree day, so , I dont think it was oil starved on the original restart.

It sounds between a rod knock and a lifter tap!?
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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I hate tapping/ knocking,

I spent $3500 chasing the damn thing down (lifeters, springs, rockers)
but still tap tap tap tappity tap tap....

Follows the rpm, so my next try is to do a vacuum test when I change to headers (I've herd of early manifold leaks which has lead people down this road. Then maybe fuel injectors.

If that dont get it an ls6 crate engine will!!!
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 10:25 AM
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You went with a 15w40? That's quite a bit thicker than a 10w30 Mobil 1. I've never heard of problems going with THICKER oil but maybe its so thick that its hitting the pressure bypass and not lubricating properly? Of course an oil change shouldn't start a noise, but if the new oil is thicker and you have an aftermarket cam, it could cause the lifter to be more "pumped up" and cause noise.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 10:37 AM
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i usually crank the engine a few times before fully starting it after any oil changes i do to build new pressure up.

on my car, i used to just start it and it would take 1-3 seconds until the pressure gauge read.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 12:01 PM
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well, it has a new trick now. I started it up (60 degrees again) and was quiet as a mouse. 4-6 minutes later and I could hear a very faint ticking/taping and starting to get louder, but never got that loud by the time I had to leave to go back to work. Let the temps get up to around 180ish before I had to go. I know my life is bassakwards, but.....................
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 02:17 PM
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Is your oil press. gauge fluctuation at all or are you holding normal pressure? I too would consider swapping oil filters just for the hell of it. I've seen alot of crazy things happen with the simplest answers.. like bad oil filters starving an engine of oil!
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 03:03 PM
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she seems to be holding normal preassure........seems to be
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