cam help
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
cam help i know there's lots of "cam threads" around here, so allow me to apologize for another one.
i just bought a '00 SS M6 car. i've got a SLP lid in the mail and hopefully some MAC headers that will be mated to 3" no-cat flowmasters. after that, i want a cam and a tune. i know i need springs and pushrods, too...but my main concern right now it cam specs.
what should i get? i want streetability and 11s at the track. i want it to lope pretty good, actually i want it to ripple the pavement at a stoplight if you catch my drift...
i have a pretty intermediate knowledge base on cams, but would like the advice nonetheless. i said i want 11s, so what would it take? i don't want any N2O at all. i know i'll need suspension and tires. So to wrap things up, what are some good cams? i don't want anything over a .595ish lift 'cuz i think that would kill my driveability.
i just bought a '00 SS M6 car. i've got a SLP lid in the mail and hopefully some MAC headers that will be mated to 3" no-cat flowmasters. after that, i want a cam and a tune. i know i need springs and pushrods, too...but my main concern right now it cam specs.
what should i get? i want streetability and 11s at the track. i want it to lope pretty good, actually i want it to ripple the pavement at a stoplight if you catch my drift...
i have a pretty intermediate knowledge base on cams, but would like the advice nonetheless. i said i want 11s, so what would it take? i don't want any N2O at all. i know i'll need suspension and tires. So to wrap things up, what are some good cams? i don't want anything over a .595ish lift 'cuz i think that would kill my driveability.
You have some reading to do then....
1. Ditch the MAC's and get some long tubes. QTP, Pacesetter, Kooks, FLP, Hooker, Edelbrock...something.
2. If you want it to lope then get a cam with a higher overlap. FWIW: You will start to "ripple the pavement" when it gets to about 16° of overlap.
3. Lift is not going to kill your driveability. It will wear down a set of springs faster. The valve events of the cam and the tune is what will determine how "streetable" it will be. People get the 242/248 .605/.610 109.5 LSA cams to street just fine with a really good/thought-out tune. LSA and Duration are going to directly affect the "lopeiness".
4. You are going to want gears if you are even considering running a larger cam with decent track times. Probably a cam that works well with 3.73's.
5. You will also be wanting to get every free-mod and bolt-on minus maybe an electric water pump.
*You are probably not going to be able to tell the difference in a nitrous vs. N/A grind anyway. I have ran all nitrous grinds for every cam I have ever had in an LS1. Most cams are Traditional split cams that are off-the-shelf grinds anyway. They just have a longer exhaust duration*
6. Cam selection starting point for you IMHO would be as follows:
Thunder Racing's :
230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA 5° of overlap
230/236 .592/.602 112 LSA 9° of overlap
231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA 8.5° of overlap (You will have to dual spring this one for sure: TRak cam)
Texas Speed (TSP)
232/234 .595/.598 112 LSA 9° of overlap
233/239 .595/.603 112 LSA 12° of overlap
Just for an idea of what is gonna be a lopey idle:
Texas Speed's MS4 : 239/242 .649/.609 111 LSA 18.5° of overlap
Thunder Racing's TRex : 242/248 .608/.612 110 LSA 25° of overlap
Hope this points you where you want to go.
1. Ditch the MAC's and get some long tubes. QTP, Pacesetter, Kooks, FLP, Hooker, Edelbrock...something.
2. If you want it to lope then get a cam with a higher overlap. FWIW: You will start to "ripple the pavement" when it gets to about 16° of overlap.
3. Lift is not going to kill your driveability. It will wear down a set of springs faster. The valve events of the cam and the tune is what will determine how "streetable" it will be. People get the 242/248 .605/.610 109.5 LSA cams to street just fine with a really good/thought-out tune. LSA and Duration are going to directly affect the "lopeiness".
4. You are going to want gears if you are even considering running a larger cam with decent track times. Probably a cam that works well with 3.73's.
5. You will also be wanting to get every free-mod and bolt-on minus maybe an electric water pump.
*You are probably not going to be able to tell the difference in a nitrous vs. N/A grind anyway. I have ran all nitrous grinds for every cam I have ever had in an LS1. Most cams are Traditional split cams that are off-the-shelf grinds anyway. They just have a longer exhaust duration*
6. Cam selection starting point for you IMHO would be as follows:
Thunder Racing's :
230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA 5° of overlap
230/236 .592/.602 112 LSA 9° of overlap
231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA 8.5° of overlap (You will have to dual spring this one for sure: TRak cam)
Texas Speed (TSP)
232/234 .595/.598 112 LSA 9° of overlap
233/239 .595/.603 112 LSA 12° of overlap
Just for an idea of what is gonna be a lopey idle:
Texas Speed's MS4 : 239/242 .649/.609 111 LSA 18.5° of overlap
Thunder Racing's TRex : 242/248 .608/.612 110 LSA 25° of overlap
Hope this points you where you want to go.
Last edited by orangeapeel; Nov 6, 2006 at 07:12 AM.
