Callies crank vs. Eagle crank
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Because there are those who want to build a motor with more cubes. I'm sure the stock crank is capable of a decent amount of power, but for someone who is building a naturally aspirated setup as I am, more cubes is better. Since all other GM blocks were out of my prices range (LS7, C5-R, etc.) I opted for the L92 which has a 4.065" bore. Combined with a 4" crank will result in a 415 cu. in. motor.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
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From: Houston, Tx.
The 2.100 is the most common and is the regular small block chevrolet size. The 2.000 is not as common with street stuff but is maybe even more common in racing and is the older small journal chevrolet size and takes a little weight off the crank and the rod both since it's big end is also .100 smaller in diameter as well at least with the Callies rods for the 2.000 crankpin. The slightly smaller diameter also reduces the bearing speed at the rod journals and creates a little less friction too.
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Ok...I think I caught on. The 4" Dragonslayer is offered with either a 2.00" or 2.100" rod journal. That is the portion that goes inside of the connecting rod. If you get a crank with a journal size of 2.00", then you have to get a set of connecting rods with a 2.00" crank pin which is the size of the bigger hole correct? Isn't the 2.100" the standard and most common size? What's the difference between the 2?
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
iTrader: (180)
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Houston, TX
I figured the 2.100" was the common size for both old school small block chevys and LSX motors. So since this is going to be a drag application which also will be naturally aspirated, I guess I should go with the 2.000" version for every little help. Now since the 2.100" is the common size, if I ordered the Dragonslayer and Compstar rods with a 2.000" size, will it be custom or something shelved? If I had to guess, it may be shelved at Callies, but not at speed shops/sponsors.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
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Dragaholic - I know MTI in Houston does stock the 2.00 DragonSlayer crank and rods but if you would like you can always purchase this stuff direct from us. We offer complete kits fully balanced with your choice of compression ratios and piston manufacturers. Give us a call. 419-435-2711 or email me what you are looking for exactly and we'll give you what we would recommend to best suit your application.
Originally Posted by bap@Callies/Compstar
I'm not going to get into the us versus them scenario other than stating the obvious and that is you get what you pay for in anything you buy. Weight , Sizing and precision do not come cheap if it did don't you the Nextel cup and NHRA boys would be using those cranks also and god forbid if you would have any trouble who are you going to call for Tech help down the road if you do. (China?)
Here are the differences for you on the Callies and CompStar Cranks
Magnum XL - This is the lightest crankshaft we make - Hence the price...
Magnum - This crank is fully machined and hand shaped. We will make it in any stroke from a 2.900 up to a 4.500 Stroke ( Yes you did read right - 4.500)
DragonSlayer - We only offer this crank - the stock stroke and a 4.00 stroke with 2.00 or 2.100 Rod Journals. As of right now this is the best bet for a street/strip motor. These cranks come internally balanced to your bob weight with your choice of reluctor style.
Now coming in January we will be offering the Compstar Crankshaft for LSX Engines. We have been offering this Offshore style of crankshaft in the old style chevy motors for over a year now. They will be available in the stock stroke and 4.00 Stroke only. These will be selling at $815.00 with your choice of reluctor style once again.
I hope this helps you in your decision!
Here are the differences for you on the Callies and CompStar Cranks
Magnum XL - This is the lightest crankshaft we make - Hence the price...
Magnum - This crank is fully machined and hand shaped. We will make it in any stroke from a 2.900 up to a 4.500 Stroke ( Yes you did read right - 4.500)
DragonSlayer - We only offer this crank - the stock stroke and a 4.00 stroke with 2.00 or 2.100 Rod Journals. As of right now this is the best bet for a street/strip motor. These cranks come internally balanced to your bob weight with your choice of reluctor style.
Now coming in January we will be offering the Compstar Crankshaft for LSX Engines. We have been offering this Offshore style of crankshaft in the old style chevy motors for over a year now. They will be available in the stock stroke and 4.00 Stroke only. These will be selling at $815.00 with your choice of reluctor style once again.
I hope this helps you in your decision!
one more question though. what is the weight of each crank?
the only one posting here was that the dragonslayer is 47#.
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Verdad Gallardo FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
I figured the 2.100" was the common size for both old school small block chevys and LSX motors. So since this is going to be a drag application which also will be naturally aspirated, I guess I should go with the 2.000" version for every little help. Now since the 2.100" is the common size, if I ordered the Dragonslayer and Compstar rods with a 2.000" size, will it be custom or something shelved? If I had to guess, it may be shelved at Callies, but not at speed shops/sponsors.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Originally Posted by 383ss
great info in this post! thanks
one more question though. what is the weight of each crank?
the only one posting here was that the dragonslayer is 47#.
one more question though. what is the weight of each crank?
the only one posting here was that the dragonslayer is 47#.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Magnum XL - 44 lbs or less - The weight depends upon stroke - Rod journal size and your bob weight - We have made them as light as 33 lbs...
Magnum 45-47 lbs
DragonSlayer 46-50 lbs.
Compstar - Should come in at 48-50 lbs.
Magnum 45-47 lbs
DragonSlayer 46-50 lbs.
Compstar - Should come in at 48-50 lbs.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Wouldn't a 1.88 or 1.771 also work in these applications? Is the issue a lack of off-the-shelf rods in that size? Other than Callies/Compstar, are non-custom 2" journal LSx rods available?
If you get into really big strokes and really small journals you could end up having a strength issue possibly too with the ultra small journals.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 881
Likes: 1
But will any of this have any affect on street/strip or street/road course dual use cars? With hydraulic lifters, most never see enough revs that the low mass is important in making it live. And are most traction limited in the rev range where the engine would be accelerating fast enough for it to make a difference. In a short track stock car, the parts are light, however without driver the cars weight under 2800# (without driver), have 13" wide slicks, and average over 600 rpm/sec engine acceleration.
I read this on someones website:
Let’s look at the “offshore parts” debate. “I don’t want any of that Bling-Blang (substitute foreign country of your choice) crap in MY engine!” The fact of the matter is that many countries are producing a lot of the high performance parts in use here today. It’s truly a global manufacturing community. Argentina, Australia, Canada, China, India, Japan and the UK, to name a few, all manufacture and export parts of much higher quality than they did even five years ago.
Many speed parts are cast or forged under contract offshore in rough form and machined by the parent company here in the US. Lower costs to produce these parts offshore allow some of the biggest names in the speed industry to offer a discounted product line to the US consumer. This has allowed for example, the proliferation of stroker cranks to become so popular at reasonable cost. The key here is that you can buy some pretty hefty street / strip power these days for a very reasonable amount of money. Look for value, not just a “Made in USA” label. Oh-and just because your next crate engine builder can boast “Made in the USA”, chances are parts like the crank, rods, balancer, valves, springs, fasteners or breathers were not.
Let’s look at the “offshore parts” debate. “I don’t want any of that Bling-Blang (substitute foreign country of your choice) crap in MY engine!” The fact of the matter is that many countries are producing a lot of the high performance parts in use here today. It’s truly a global manufacturing community. Argentina, Australia, Canada, China, India, Japan and the UK, to name a few, all manufacture and export parts of much higher quality than they did even five years ago.
Many speed parts are cast or forged under contract offshore in rough form and machined by the parent company here in the US. Lower costs to produce these parts offshore allow some of the biggest names in the speed industry to offer a discounted product line to the US consumer. This has allowed for example, the proliferation of stroker cranks to become so popular at reasonable cost. The key here is that you can buy some pretty hefty street / strip power these days for a very reasonable amount of money. Look for value, not just a “Made in USA” label. Oh-and just because your next crate engine builder can boast “Made in the USA”, chances are parts like the crank, rods, balancer, valves, springs, fasteners or breathers were not.
I did a search on here about this topic and found this and I thought I would express this.
Brand new crank was checked out at my engine builders and come to find out it had a tapper. Had to be turned 10 on the rods and 10 on the mains. Needless to say I should have spent the extra money up front.
Good thing polydyne just let me swap out my already coated std bearing from the new coated bearings.
Brand new crank was checked out at my engine builders and come to find out it had a tapper. Had to be turned 10 on the rods and 10 on the mains. Needless to say I should have spent the extra money up front.
Good thing polydyne just let me swap out my already coated std bearing from the new coated bearings.
I did a search on here about this topic and found this and I thought I would express this.
Brand new crank was checked out at my engine builders and come to find out it had a tapper. Had to be turned 10 on the rods and 10 on the mains. Needless to say I should have spent the extra money up front.
Good thing polydyne just let me swap out my already coated std bearing from the new coated bearings.
Brand new crank was checked out at my engine builders and come to find out it had a tapper. Had to be turned 10 on the rods and 10 on the mains. Needless to say I should have spent the extra money up front.
Good thing polydyne just let me swap out my already coated std bearing from the new coated bearings.
1INSANEGTO, care to fill the rest of us that arent psychic's that cant read minds. What crank you are refering to?
Translated into 1INSANEGTO slang: care t' fill de rest of us dat aren't psychic's dat cant read minds. What crank you are refehrigg to, duh...uh...?
Talked with a vendor in Memphis (LSX shootout) and he also knew of the issue that Eagle had. He said, "That was a while back that Eagle had that problem and it has since been corrected." He wasn't an Eagle distributor either. He said the problem still plagues Eagle due to the reputation that it got for the bad cranks that were sold.