Dont Buy Into It!!!
11-15-2006, 01:19 AM
#21
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I tryed the syn. thing (M1). my car dosent care. I run a napa gold filter and regular napa oil (which is the samething as valvoline) just a 10 30 (your climate will also depend on the wieght) change it every 3000, maybe sooner depends how hard I drive it, btw when I ran the M1 my car used 1 qt. with the napa oil, no oil useage, no color change.
11-15-2006, 01:28 AM
#22
Originally Posted by BIG BAD BLACKSS
You put any oil in the filter before you screwed it on? Did you leave the oil pan to drain for an extended period of time? Only thing i can think of is maybe the oil pump lost its prime and took a few seconds to start pumping meanwhile something rubbed up against something it shouldnt have cause no oil?
Id bet dollars to donuts the oil change will not get rid of that sound.
Id bet dollars to donuts the oil change will not get rid of that sound.
If it doesnt I will be in the market for a crate LS1 because this is un-livable. The pan drained for 20 minutes, the filter was primed to the top, the dipstick was checked before cranking. The oil change was flawless. The only thing different was the oil viscosity and the presence of tappage. I could e ven hear it in the car between shifts when I let off. the 5-30 factory recommended oil goes in tomorrow.
11-15-2006, 02:08 AM
#23
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like i said i got a 98 Z with 164,xxx miles on it heads and cam only nose i get is from the cam, car as never had any kind of syntideic oil in it. all ways 10-30 winter and 10-40 summer, all ways been castrol oil. beside the little bit og sweing machine nose from cam she is quite
11-15-2006, 03:08 AM
#24
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so you went from a typical 10-30 to a 10-40? and it started making noise? i have never heard of that little of an oil change making any difference, let alone a valve train noise.... sure you didn't rev to 9k rpm right after the oil change?
11-15-2006, 08:38 AM
#25
Originally Posted by dkbmxer002
so you went from a typical 10-30 to a 10-40? and it started making noise? i have never heard of that little of an oil change making any difference, let alone a valve train noise.... sure you didn't rev to 9k rpm right after the oil change?
11-15-2006, 12:50 PM
#28
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interested to see the outcome of this. Your describing serious sounds , like when your lifters arent primed when you first start the motor. You would think that with a thicker oil they would prime faster.
11-15-2006, 01:40 PM
#30
id imagine it was just too thick since it was winter time.. LOL..
btw, who the hell told you that you want a THICK oil?
really, you want to run the thinnest oil you can... it pumps around the engine easier, coats things quicker and is all around better.... thats one of the reasons racers will heat their oil in the wintertime before a race..
the only thing thick oil is good for, is as a bandaid for other issues, like worn valve seals, worn ring/cyls, to make happier (yet meaningless) numbers on the oil pressure gauge, ect...
btw, who the hell told you that you want a THICK oil?
really, you want to run the thinnest oil you can... it pumps around the engine easier, coats things quicker and is all around better.... thats one of the reasons racers will heat their oil in the wintertime before a race..
the only thing thick oil is good for, is as a bandaid for other issues, like worn valve seals, worn ring/cyls, to make happier (yet meaningless) numbers on the oil pressure gauge, ect...
11-15-2006, 01:57 PM
#31
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
id imagine it was just too thick since it was winter time.. LOL..
btw, who the hell told you that you want a THICK oil?
really, you want to run the thinnest oil you can... it pumps around the engine easier, coats things quicker and is all around better.... thats one of the reasons racers will heat their oil in the wintertime before a race..
the only thing thick oil is good for, is as a bandaid for other issues, like worn valve seals, worn ring/cyls, to make happier (yet meaningless) numbers on the oil pressure gauge, ect...
btw, who the hell told you that you want a THICK oil?
really, you want to run the thinnest oil you can... it pumps around the engine easier, coats things quicker and is all around better.... thats one of the reasons racers will heat their oil in the wintertime before a race..
the only thing thick oil is good for, is as a bandaid for other issues, like worn valve seals, worn ring/cyls, to make happier (yet meaningless) numbers on the oil pressure gauge, ect...
Your situation sounds strange that it would start being noisy that quick, but I belive that some spun bearings and other issues are related to the use of these thicker oils .
For instance you use a 10-40w oil it flows a bit slower now you spin the motor over 6K suck up all the oil , a little slosh in the pan from accel and the oil is taking its time to get back to the pan you will have a possability of getting a bit of oil starvation at those engine speed thats no goods in my book I just use what they recomend . Plus it's oil you change so much what does it matter .
11-15-2006, 02:27 PM
#33
10-30 going in in about 30 minutes. Gone to pick up the filter. The motor has not seen over 2,000 rpm with this heavy POS oil. Will report back in an hour or so when changed.
11-15-2006, 02:29 PM
#34
Pretty stupid of you to come on here and make the blanket statement that no one should use a 40 weight oil in their car because it will break. Mobil 1 5w30 is more like a 5w20 it's so thin. After seeing oil analysis of M1 5w30, it will never touch my car again. I'm currently running GC 0w30 (which is closer to a 40) and am considering trying Amsoil 5w40. Those, according to oil analysis tests, are the top 2 oils for an LS1.
I'm glad you have determined what is best for all LS1 motors, and what oils are crap and what isn't. So, how was your math100 class?
I'm glad you have determined what is best for all LS1 motors, and what oils are crap and what isn't. So, how was your math100 class?
11-15-2006, 02:34 PM
#35
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After 2 months of quiet as a mouse, I did 15-40 royal purple oil change and I was royaly screwed AFTER the oil change with the same sounds.
Post up what happens after the change, I need to know, lol.
Post up what happens after the change, I need to know, lol.
Last edited by csmc711; 11-15-2006 at 02:53 PM.
11-15-2006, 02:44 PM
#36
This is almost as good as a comic book ... there is some funny sheeeeeit being posted...you people who think you know something about oil either do some research or consult with Patman ... he is the resident guru on oil.. 
Last edited by slt200mph; 11-15-2006 at 03:27 PM.
11-15-2006, 03:09 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Asmodeus
Pretty stupid of you to come on here and make the blanket statement that no one should use a 40 weight oil in their car because it will break. Mobil 1 5w30 is more like a 5w20 it's so thin. After seeing oil analysis of M1 5w30, it will never touch my car again. I'm currently running GC 0w30 (which is closer to a 40) and am considering trying Amsoil 5w40. Those, according to oil analysis tests, are the top 2 oils for an LS1.
I'm glad you have determined what is best for all LS1 motors, and what oils are crap and what isn't. So, how was your math100 class?
I'm glad you have determined what is best for all LS1 motors, and what oils are crap and what isn't. So, how was your math100 class?
11-15-2006, 03:42 PM
#40
Originally Posted by BIG BAD BLACKSS
Anyone wanna make a side bet on this? I got $20 bux that says the noise will still be there.