Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Basically I have a CSI universal mount electric water pump under the car, I ran
a hose from the driver side of the radiator to the water pump, up to what would usually
be the outlet side of the stock water pump. I then removed the wheel from the stock water pump, leaving the water pump pulley intact. Heater hoses and everything else remains stock, with one minor change to the stock thermostat.

The install came out much cleaner than I expected! You can't even tell that anything has been done to the cooling system. I did a bit of test driving, and the car is staying a nice constant temperature on the gauge, and the heater is nice and toasty. Dyno testing coming Sunday, assuming nothing breaks before then. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

[ December 07, 2001: Message edited by: Terry Burger ]</p>

CHRISPY

Any SOTP difference?
Can you give more details on what you did? Is your belt bypassing the waterpump altogether now or is it acting like an idler pulley? Did you remove the guts of the waterpump?
What is your coolant temp and what Tstat are you using?
Thanks,
Chris

jmX

Awesome Terry....glad to see it worked out. Please tell us what the total cost was for everything you needed to buy (relays?, etc).

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

No real SOTP diff, although I am not very sensitive to power changes. The best part of this setup is, the belt arrangement is 100% stock! Just imagine a completely stock setup, remove the impeller from the water pump, and add a small inline water pump on one of the hoses to push water around. The stock water pump still turns, but its not doing any of the work. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Jmx, here is the parts list for the Burger EWP:

CSI universal water pump: $239
2 fittings for 1 1/2" hoses: $32
2 water hoses: $21
4 1 1/2" screw clamps: $4

I ran the power right off the fuse box, so no relay or anything needed. It's too early to tell if this is going to be a good mod, but its pretty cheap and easy to do.

Street Racer

iTrader: (65)

Damn dude you rock !

[ December 07, 2001: Message edited by: Street Racer ]</p>

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

THis sounds like an awesome way of getting around stuff... Im way too interested in this for my own good :-)
I'll be waiting for dyno results. Any pics coming?

thanks
chris

Dean98TA

What were you hoping to gain from doing that?

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

That pretty kewl man. Any pics?

PaiN

Terry are you planning to try and bump up your Timing to see if you can do it without getting any KR?

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

I think it would be better to see if the advance gives you power on the dyno, compared to the without the timing tricker but with the water pump, back to back. Thats more of a controlled envorinment. My concern is that I have heard that more advance on these LS1s, even when possible, does not mean more power...

But then hey, thats a question/test only a dynoqueen like ME would ask <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

chris

Kenny H

You need a 1/2 watt 4.7 ohm resister. Radio Shack, 49 cents....

I do not think it will help you much though. What engine are you doing this on, is it a 346?

Check out the discussion Nineball started a few weeks back about timing. If you are already in the 27-30 range I don't think you will see any gain from increasing timing. I would think the car would be less sensitive to detonation though, right?

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

The car is pretty low on timing right now, due to 91 octane gas (its a 11.2:1 346), the argument goes if you switch over to reserve flow cooling you might pick up a ton of power with more timing. I don't believe it, but guys argue it. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

How much timing does that resistor usually add over say a 85 ambient AIT sensor, 2 degrees?

Kenny H

[quote]Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>The car is pretty low on timing right now, due to 91 octane gas (its a 11.2:1 346), the argument goes if you switch over to reserve flow cooling you might pick up a ton of power with more timing. I don't believe it, but guys argue it. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

How much timing does that resistor usually add over say a 85 ambient AIT sensor, 2 degrees?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Some guys have seen no gain with it, others have seen as much as 2 degrees more. Theoretically the hotter it gets I would think the more of a gain you would see with the TT. What is your timing now? Can you get atleast 93 octane gas for the car?

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

They only sell 91 octane out here, or I can buy 104 octane race gas. Since I drive and race on 91 all the time I have the tuning setup for that, with around 25-26 degrees of total timing I believe.

Joe Prince

Terry,
Good idea, but if it was that simple...I would have converted the same way. You are going to have nothing but problems with the way you set it up, do a real easy test, hold the car at 100 MPH for 1 minuite and tell me what happens. I already lived through all that BS 5 months ago, you will find out real quick, keep a sharp eye on the Temp gauge the whole time or you won't be able to turn the car off fast enough. What going to happen is it's going to run very cool for a while (bad for the rings and makes the motor run rich) then with increased speed all the sudden it's going to overheat. This is why I built my own housing.Then the overflow catch can will do something like this.... <img src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" border="0" alt="[barf]" />

[ December 08, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]</p>

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

So far the only problem I have right now is that the thermostat is slow to open when its cold, I think I need to make a larger bleed hole for it (to get a bit of circulation going through it). Once it opens up, everything seems to work well. The other problem is its running a bit too cool on the highway. I'll probably throw a stock thermostat in it with a large drilled hole and see how that works.

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

I am hoping to get some pics tommorow at the dyno day. At some point I'll try to put more timing in the car, but it will have to wait until I do some PCM work. Anyone know how much timing you can add via a timing tricker? What is the ohm resistor again for 57 degrees? <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

vt2vx

ha come on, the problem you have is no pump controller here. you take the stat out fit a pump controller at set it at the temp you want... when the motor is cold flow is very slow till it warms up then it goes as fast as it needs to keep the temperature down to the set temp. good for qtrs too as can cool the motor fast between runs when off/idle with power to pump and fan.

[ December 09, 2001: Message edited by: vt2vx ]</p>

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

I'm trying the physical thermostat first because its cheaper and less work. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> If I can't make this work right, I'll set up a controller that runs the pump at 6v when < 160 degrees, and 12v when > 160 degrees.