How much will LS6 01 Cam add?? Its only $175 so...
#21
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All you guys that think it can be done successfully should just do it. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> Report back here in 4 months. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
#22
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To:andy98z and red2000ss, I read GMHTP article on ls6 02 cam and here's how I interpet it. The engineers wanted to adress the new cam profiles aggressiveness with lighter valves. Why? To stay away from excessive spring pressures (noise,wear,durability) on valvetrain.Since they were designing new lighter valves anyway they lengthed them to compensate for smaller cam base circle.Why create two new parts instead of one$? So using 02 cam and springs only you'd lose around 400 rpms of valve control, ok with 6250rpm f-body limiter.But profile lift and aggressiveness would increase power collectively across entire powerband without drawbacks of tons of extra duration!As far as geometry you could use lash caps on stock ls1 valves to offset base circle differences. I beleive power gains would be around 20 to 25 at peak but add up hp gains at each rpm between 4000-6250 and you would have a real winner! Want more rpm add aftermarket springs and raise limiter. Win win situation with 189$ and springs. Just my 2 cents
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The factory went with lighter valves on the '02 cam because of the more aggressive ramps and they didn't want to use heavy open rate springs. As mentioned before, they chose to go with longer valves, instead of longer pushrods, to compensate for the smaller base circle.
So, if you really want to install the '02 LS6 cam on a 'budget', I would keep the stock valves and go with Comp Cams 918 valve springs. These will easily handle the more aggressive ramps and cost a hell of a lot less than the $42 a piece lightweight valves. Also, to make up for the smaller base circle I would run a slightly longer pushrod. A pushrod around .020" longer will be sufficient to get the lifter plunger travel that you need.
The '01 is a cheaper install and you probably wouldn't notice the difference between the '01 and '02 cam in your engine.
So, if you really want to install the '02 LS6 cam on a 'budget', I would keep the stock valves and go with Comp Cams 918 valve springs. These will easily handle the more aggressive ramps and cost a hell of a lot less than the $42 a piece lightweight valves. Also, to make up for the smaller base circle I would run a slightly longer pushrod. A pushrod around .020" longer will be sufficient to get the lifter plunger travel that you need.
The '01 is a cheaper install and you probably wouldn't notice the difference between the '01 and '02 cam in your engine.
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[quote]Originally posted by Jax White TA:
<strong>Will the LS6 springs work with the stock valves and the LS6 cam? I have a friend wanting to go with that setup.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yes. Most definitely. I have the '01 LS6 cam and valve springs with the stock LS1 valves in my SS, and it works just fine. Putting in the LS6 cam seems to add a bit more power further up in the RPM range, and reduce the low-end torque a touch. This is exactly what I wanted to achieve, since I have 4.10s (no shortage of low end grunt!)and my focus is on road racing/solo 1 rather than drag racing.
Best regardSS,
Elie
98 SS #C079
<strong>Will the LS6 springs work with the stock valves and the LS6 cam? I have a friend wanting to go with that setup.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yes. Most definitely. I have the '01 LS6 cam and valve springs with the stock LS1 valves in my SS, and it works just fine. Putting in the LS6 cam seems to add a bit more power further up in the RPM range, and reduce the low-end torque a touch. This is exactly what I wanted to achieve, since I have 4.10s (no shortage of low end grunt!)and my focus is on road racing/solo 1 rather than drag racing.
Best regardSS,
Elie
98 SS #C079
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So what can the 01 LS6 cam rev to while still makin good power? Can i expect to get 12.0's out of this cam, a ST3500 converter, a lid and borla? Any Comments appreciated!
-Matt <img src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" border="0" alt="[jester]" />
-Matt <img src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" border="0" alt="[jester]" />
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Not trying to be the accountant here, but, wouldn't you have to include the cost of new coolant, re-charging the a/c, gaskets and changing the oil? So your talking about a fair amount of money. At least you won't have to get programing.
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[quote]Originally posted by cdm98z28:
<strong>Not trying to be the accountant here, but, wouldn't you have to include the cost of new coolant, re-charging the a/c, gaskets and changing the oil? So your talking about a fair amount of money. At least you won't have to get programing.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Actually you do not need to re-charge the A/C for a cam swap. The evaporator can be dropped down out of the way so that the cam will clear when coming out of the block. No need to discharge the system, it just requires a little carefull tube bending.
<strong>Not trying to be the accountant here, but, wouldn't you have to include the cost of new coolant, re-charging the a/c, gaskets and changing the oil? So your talking about a fair amount of money. At least you won't have to get programing.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Actually you do not need to re-charge the A/C for a cam swap. The evaporator can be dropped down out of the way so that the cam will clear when coming out of the block. No need to discharge the system, it just requires a little carefull tube bending.
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Yep, I saw no reason whatsoever to disacharge the A/C when I did mine. The condensor kinda just fell outta the way.